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I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with a 2.5L turbo engine and I have 3 questions pertaining to the turbo on the car. 1. Online it says there is "light-turbocharging" on the car, and I am wondering if there is actually a turbo on the car? 2. If there is a turbo where would it be? 3. What is the psi on the turbo?
 

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There is a turbo, it is on the back of the engine where the OTE (over the engine) pipe comes out, below heat shield.
Pressure from the turbo is about 6-7PSI. or about 1/2 of atmosphere. T5 engines are ~13-14 PSI. 1 atm =14.7 PSI at sea level.


*below is not my car …




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TD04L 14T. Exhaust manifold mounted. Target boost 6 psi, can run up to about ten depending on flow.
 

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As an aside, if you are driving the car and wondering 'dang I don't feel a turbo' - replace the turbo control valve ($22 here, below) and check the air lines' integrity.

Between 2019 and early 2021, I bought four LPT volvos, 2000-2004, three of which were 2004 models (exra long model run that year, plus desirable features started that my). All were well kept and in OK shape. Only ONE had a properly working TCV and was making something near rated power.

ok, these were $19 last year. Oh well, welcome to the self-inflicted wounds of Covid:

 
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If you think this might be your problem, you can swap it with a pair of pliers in about 2 minutes. It is hanging on the airbox on late P80 and P2 cars just under the cold air intake, easy to reach. It is harder to check the lines as some run underneath the heat shield, intake, etc. and are hard to visualize. Also there is a 4th one from the intake plenum to the turbo that is also hard to trace but can be done by feel (and does harden and crack). It won't affect power but will affect driveability (exhaust wheel won't spool down rapidly).

It is a three-way solenoid valve and designed to fail "open" so that if it fails, it fails so that your turbo is vented to the atmosphere and thus can't damage your engine. You are then driving around with basically a normally aspirated 2.5l banger, missing about 50hp and about 90 ft-lbs of torque.
 

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If you think this might be your problem, you can swap it with a pair of pliers in about 2 minutes. It is hanging on the airbox on late P80 and P2 cars just under the cold air intake, easy to reach. It is harder to check the lines as some run underneath the heat shield, intake, etc. and are hard to visualize. Also there is a 4th one from the intake plenum to the turbo that is also hard to trace but can be done by feel (and does harden and crack). It won't affect power but will affect driveability (exhaust wheel won't spool down rapidly).

It is a three-way solenoid valve and designed to fail "open" so that if it fails, it fails so that your turbo is vented to the atmosphere and thus can't damage your engine. You are then driving around with basically a normally aspirated 2.5l banger, missing about 50hp and about 90 ft-lbs of torque.
TCV fails (it standard position is open) open leaving the waste-gate connected to the compressor reference port which will make wastegate boost only, not dumping to atmosphere.
 

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As an aside, if you are driving the car and wondering 'dang I don't feel a turbo' - replace the turbo control valve ($22 here, below) and check the air lines' integrity.
Sorry noob question, but aside from feeling the turbo power how else can I confirm the turbo is working? Would using an OBDII to read the boost work?
 

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Sorry noob question, but aside from feeling the turbo power how else can I confirm the turbo is working? Would using an OBDII to read the boost work?
Is the car slow or does it scoot like a rabbit to 60
 
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