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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dear all,

I hope that you R-guys can may be point me in the right direction about where to start searching for my problem. Here is the story:

I own a 2004 Volvo S60R and I recently started to have problems with the car. I took it to the dealer and they got the following codes out of the car:

CEM-1D04
ECM-130A
ECM-262A
ECM-6814
ECM-531D
ECM-2100

The issue with the car: When I start the car in the morning it starts fine, I can drive it for a few miles and it seems to run fine until I get to work. Once I leave it there for a few hours (2-3) and try to start it again after that the problems start. The car has difficulties starting and keeping the RPM, they fluctuate and the car stalls. I am able to sometimes start it and luckily keep the RPM's to get back to my house.

Anyhow this started about a month ago, before that I started noticing that the cars was studdering lightly under normal driving conditions and progrssively the problem got worse and worse until now where the engine basically would stall at a stop light, as well as when I am driving normally. The car would start studdering and shaking while moving and it will finally stall. Could you please let me know what could be the problem?

I did clean the MAF sensor with brake cleaner, cleaned the throttle body, as well, and replaced the fuel filter. Anyhow, I hope that someone would be able to give me an advice as soon as posible please.

Thank you for your time,
Respectfully,
George
 

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Let's see what the codes are:

CEM-1D04 - ECM, Software, Faulty Signal. Intermittent or Permanent Fault - incorrect checksum .

ECM-130A - Intake Air Leakage - Check that the hoses and hose connectors between the MAF and the throttle unit are not leaking or defective. Check that the boost pressure sensor is correctly mounted. Check for Air leakage around the component. - This code can be caused by a damaged MAF sensor.

ECM-262A - Long Term Fuel Trim. Upper Limit/Lower Limit. -Upper Limit - check intake air leakage, exhaust system air leakage, defective 02 sensor. Lower Limit - intake air leakage, high fuel pressure, leaking injectors, defective MAF sensor, contaminated engine oil, oil level too high, defective 02 sensor

ECM-6814 - Turbocharger Control. Signal too high. - Air leakage downstream of the turbo (between the turbo and the throttle unit), boost pressure sensor that came loose, defective boost pressure sensor. - fault symptoms - poor performance

ECM-531D - Control Module, Internal Fault - fault in ecm, changed software in the ecm, defective ecm. incorrect check sum sets this...

ECM-2100 - Fuel Pressure Sensor. Signal too high, Signal Too Low - Signal too high - contact resistance or oxidation in the terminals, short-circuit to supply voltage in the signal cable, open-circuit in the signal cable, open-circuit in the ground cable, defective fuel pressure sensor. Signal too low - short-circuit to ground in the signal cable, defective fuel pressure sensor. Symptoms - MIL lamp is lit, Deterioration in performance, the engine stops.


So... what I am seeing is that if it were me, I'd be looking for a leak in the intake air somewhere. A broken vacuum line, a broken pcv line, a split o-ring (caused mine to die like you describe). The fuel pressure sensor could be causing the problem, but I'd go simple first.

The ECM stuff, incorrect checksum... maybe a bad flash when they reprogrammed it... not normally a biggie, but you may be seeing the beginnings of a ground fault error, so it could be a wiring thing... still, I'd go with the most common stuff first, which would be a vacuum leak.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello,

THe car has about 30 K miles on it and I have never replaced the coil packs. The spark plugs were replaced about 10K ago.

Thank you for the reply
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Dear tomedkaz,

To answer your question, the car has only 30K on it and was never abused in any way. The coil packs were never replaced and the spark plugs were replaced 10K ago.

Thanks for the suggestions
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dear Pirate,

First, I want to thank you for the detailed explanation, it is much appreciated. One thing I forgot to mention in my original post was that I have the CDA (Carbon Dynamic Airbox) before the MAF. I decided that after almost 2 years it was time to clean the filter and I removed it in order to perform the cleaning. I used the recommended cleaning kit (cleaner and oil from CDA). Once I did that than the car started doing the weird things it is doing now.

I noticed shortly after the cleaning of the filter that the car started stuttering very mildly and I could barely notice it (minor jerk under normal driving conditions). Then this stuttering started to get worse and worse until the point where the car went from stuttering/jerking to stalling while I am driving it. In addition to the worsening stuttering the check engine light came on and I got the above mentioned error codes in the car.

Also, after the first time the check engine light came on I took it to the dealer and they removed the error codes. I drove the car all right for 1-2 days and after that the check engine light came on again with the same error codes. However, when the check engine light lid up for the second time, the car was cold and I turned the ignition on first thing in the morning, meaning that the car started normally but the check engine light came on right away.

So, to make the long story short, once I started getting the more noticeable stuttering in the car I took the MAF off and cleaned it with a break cleaner since I thought that might be the issue. The MAF did not look bad as if it was dirty from the sucked in possible oil. Anyhow, I cleaned it. Following that I took the throttle body off and cleaned it, as well, just to make sure that the issue is not coming from there. I also cleaned a sensor, which I believe is the boost pressure sensor located on the piping.The last thing I have done so far was to replace the fuel filter since I thought it might have something to do with it.

Anyhow, I will check what you are describing for me to do, however, now that I have explained my issue in detail, may be you can let me know any other new thoughts or ideas that might be coming to you. At the end my thinking so far is that the MAF has started to go bad once I cleaned the filter. However, before I go and start buying expensive components for the car in order to fix it I wanted to ask for an opinion and what might be the cause of my issue based on my car symptoms and the error codes which I got in my car.

Again thank you for the support, I will be expecting more feedback.

Respectfully,
George
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dear Pirate,

One last question to you. You mentioned that a split O-ring caused the issues with your car. Could you please specify, which O-ring you have in mind and where can I find such O-rings in the car besides the O-rings for the injectors?

Again, thanks for your help.
 

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Dear Pirate,

One last question to you. You mentioned that a split O-ring caused the issues with your car. Could you please specify, which O-ring you have in mind and where can I find such O-rings in the car besides the O-rings for the injectors?

Again, thanks for your help.
I believe Pirate was referring to the o-ring on the end of the charge air pipe that runs over the top of the engine between the turbo and the intercooler. The o-ring is located on the end of the pipe that connects to the turbo.

Here is a photo showing the end of the pipe with the black o-ring:



The above photo is from Rangeball's thread, which includes step-by-step instructions on removing the charge air pipe: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?77211

What happens if you unplug the electrical connector for the MAF? If the car runs better with the MAF unplugged, then that would suggest that the MAF is faulty.

Have you had the recall done for the fuel pressure sensor (effects 04 Rs)?

Cheers,

Jeff
 

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My word of advice to you, DO NOT use brake cleaner to clean the MAF or throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dear Jeff,

Thanks a bunch for the picture and the explanation. I will look over this O-ring today or tomorrow and I will let you know what is the status. Also, I have not unplugged the MAF sensor yet because the car does not want to go crazy on me all the time. It actually decides on its own when it starts to stutter and stall. So, what I have to do is to drive it around and as soon as it starts stalling I will disconnect the MAF and if the car runs fine than the problem is solved.

Also, I have not had any issues with the car until this past month, therefore I have not replaced the Fuel Pressure Sensor. Lastly, my issues started once I cleaned the air filter with the cleaner kit (at least I think that, however I am not 100% sure)

Thanks for the support,

Respectfully,
George
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My word of advice to you, DO NOT use brake cleaner to clean the MAF or throttle body.
Dear DarekP,

May I ask you to explain to me why it is not recommended to use a brake cleaner for cleaning purposes of components such as the MAF or the throttle body? The cleaner dissolves oily substances rather well. Lastly, if I need to clean these components what else would you recommend me to use?

Thanks for the support,

Respectfully,
George
 

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@ SoupandSpoons - THAT'S A BINGO. That o-ring caused me no end of fits.

And good catch on the fuel sensor recall, forgot about that... that *could* play into it, but it still would be good just to get it addressed, just in case...

AFA brake cleaner... you have to be careful with them these days.. there are several different formulations out there. Years ago, yeah, would have been fine, but today, I have to agree with Derek and others, use dedicated MAF cleaner. The other issue is, some of them DO leave a residue behind (even though they really aren't supposed to) and that residue can also foul the MAF.

And yes, oil fouling may well be causing your problem... the suck part is, that oil can be invisible to the naked eye, and still wreck a MAF. That's part of why I refuse to run an oil bath filter these days (K&N, etc). Not as clean of air (even though they "flow" better, they do so at the expense of larger particles getting through) and the risk of over oiling is too great... and in my part of the world, we have a lot of crud in the air all the time, so I would rather change a paper cartridge every oil change (yes, I do) than try a "million mile" filter for my engine. It's always a trade off between efficiency and durability, it seems...

George, since you were working around the MAF and the air filter box, etc... I would really REALLY look over the vacuum lines in those areas very closely. It is easy to catch a hose and pull it loose, and frankly, at 8 years old, our caRs are at an age where rubber deterioration could start playing a factor. A cracked vacuum line could easily be causing all of this. It just takes time to check them out...

Good luck, and again, no problem and glad to help.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@ SoupandSpoons - THAT'S A BINGO. That o-ring caused me no end of fits.

And good catch on the fuel sensor recall, forgot about that... that *could* play into it, but it still would be good just to get it addressed, just in case...

AFA brake cleaner... you have to be careful with them these days.. there are several different formulations out there. Years ago, yeah, would have been fine, but today, I have to agree with Derek and others, use dedicated MAF cleaner. The other issue is, some of them DO leave a residue behind (even though they really aren't supposed to) and that residue can also foul the MAF.

And yes, oil fouling may well be causing your problem... the suck part is, that oil can be invisible to the naked eye, and still wreck a MAF. That's part of why I refuse to run an oil bath filter these days (K&N, etc). Not as clean of air (even though they "flow" better, they do so at the expense of larger particles getting through) and the risk of over oiling is too great... and in my part of the world, we have a lot of crud in the air all the time, so I would rather change a paper cartridge every oil change (yes, I do) than try a "million mile" filter for my engine. It's always a trade off between efficiency and durability, it seems...

George, since you were working around the MAF and the air filter box, etc... I would really REALLY look over the vacuum lines in those areas very closely. It is easy to catch a hose and pull it loose, and frankly, at 8 years old, our caRs are at an age where rubber deterioration could start playing a factor. A cracked vacuum line could easily be causing all of this. It just takes time to check them out...

Good luck, and again, no problem and glad to help.

Jim
Dear Jim,

I just started the car in my garage a bit ago and decided to drive it around the block just to see what happens. I started the car, waited about 5-7 minutes on idle and then took it for a normal spin.

The car runs absolutely fine at the moment, I have no issues at all. I was hoping that the car would start stuttrting and I was ready to disconnect the MAF in order to see what would happen. However, at the moment the car is running like a clock. What in the hell is happening? I am getting a bit frustrated!!! It looks like the car decides on its own when to stall....Anyhow, I will keep you posted, I will keep driving it today until it stalls. In the mean time if anyone has any ideas about my car issue please drop me a note.

Again thank you for your support and I am sorry that I am writing so much regarding this weird issue...

Respectfully,
George
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dear all,

Can you please let me know the right part numbers for the MAF and the FPS?

I have the following numbers:
- MAF - 31342363
- FPS - 31272730

Are these correct or? If not I would appreciate if someone sends me the right ones.

Thank you for the support,

Respectfully,
George
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dear all,

Can you please let me know the right part numbers for the MAF and the FPS?

I have the following numbers:
- MAF - 31342363
- FPS - 31272730

Are these correct or? If not I would appreciate if someone sends me the right ones.

Thank you for the support,

Respectfully,
George
I apologize,

However I forgot to ask if anyone knows where I can find them at reasonable prices besides the dealer?
Any ideas, please let me know. Thank you.
 

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I believe the following are the correct part numbers:

MAF - 8670114

FPS - 30756097 (You had the right number for the FPS, but it has been superceded by 30756097)

Tasca (http://www.tascaparts.com) is probably your cheapest source for OEM parts. However, there are a number of other cars that use the same FPS, so you may want to look into using the equivalent Land Rover part, because it can apparently be found for much cheaper.

Cheers,

Jeff
 

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Dear all,

I hope that you R-guys can may be point me in the right direction about where to start searching for my problem. Here is the story:

I own a 2004 Volvo S60R and I recently started to have problems with the car. I took it to the dealer and they got the following codes out of the car:

CEM-1D04
ECM-130A
ECM-262A
ECM-6814

ECM-531D
ECM-2100

The issue with the car: When I start the car in the morning it starts fine, I can drive it for a few miles and it seems to run fine until I get to work. Once I leave it there for a few hours (2-3) and try to start it again after that the problems start. The car has difficulties starting and keeping the RPM, they fluctuate and the car stalls. I am able to sometimes start it and luckily keep the RPM's to get back to my house.

Anyhow this started about a month ago, before that I started noticing that the cars was studdering lightly under normal driving conditions and progrssively the problem got worse and worse until now where the engine basically would stall at a stop light, as well as when I am driving normally. The car would start studdering and shaking while moving and it will finally stall. Could you please let me know what could be the problem?

I did clean the MAF sensor with brake cleaner, cleaned the throttle body, as well, and replaced the fuel filter. Anyhow, I hope that someone would be able to give me an advice as soon as posible please.

Thank you for your time,
Respectfully,
George
Hi George,

Did you actually find what the fault was and rectify it?

Its been a couple of years, but I have the three fault codes highlighted.

It's really doing my head in. Intermittent 'limp mode' with no Boost whatsoever. No EML. I have replaced the TCV with a brand new Volvo unit. Car drives better, but still the codes come back.

Regards, Lee.
 
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