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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is Tom on the line, long time listener, first time caller.
1 year ago I bought "Big Red" an 04 v70r, manual tranmission; today has 120k miles.
Clutch and timing belt had been recently replaced by previous owner

I think there may be a catastrophic failure in the transmission and looking for help diagnosing/repairing.

2 weeks ago: started hearing clicking during sharp turns, at first seemed like right turns only, then both left and right. After a few days, and with 25 years of shade tree mechanicking behind me, I decided it was probably a failing CV joint.

I replaced the passenger side axle; though the old one had no broken boots or obvious defect.
The clicking continued and I thought maybe I guessed wrong and would try the the left axle next.

The next morning, at a stop light, going straight, I accelerated in first gear and then snap, and grinding noise, and the engine revved free while the car coasted barely through the intersection and to the side of the road. I tried shifting to 2nd and 3rd gear, but still no connection between engine and tires.

Been reading the forums for similar symptoms from others, but haven't found a match. Fearing it may need a whole new transmission (and hard to come by), or maybe the trans is repairable/rebuildable (new differential). Years ago I had a differential failure on a 76 Porsche 911 (someone else was driving), but it damaged too much inside to fix.

The right front tire also had a slow leak, and am wondering if during its low psi periods, it could have created abnormal/excessive strain on the differential?

I bought a 3 day Vida subscription, and some pills for depression, and getting ready to remove the trans.
Appreciate any wisdom or advice or good (clean) jokes :confused:
 

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Wow, welcome to SS and sorry for your bad luck. There's a fairly deep pool of knowledge here and I bet someone will chime in with ideas. The typical culprits on the M66 is a loose or disconnected shift cable but that doesn't sound like your problem. Who did the clutch? Could they have a warranty in place if it wasn't too long ago?
 

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Several possibilities here.
from least onerous to catastrophe: 1.The LH axle CV joint has crapped out and the DEM is offline due to bad temp & pressure sensor so no rear drive was there to continue motion.
2. Same with LH axle but the collar connecting angle gear to diff carrier splines sheared when it was called on to carry a lot more torque.
3. Ugly transmission failure and the other stuff is OK.

I really think your problem is with 1 or 2.

CHeck LH axle, if you also got a Dice then check for DEM DTC's. If none then remove the angle gear to inspect collar. IF no problem found then pull gearbox.

With car on stands and an assistant, have asst put car in gear with parking brake applied and watch the rear prop shaft to see if it is turning w/o turning rear wheels. If so then you know DEM is offline and some of the worst stuff should be off the table.

DO yourself a favor and dig out the pasty grease and then repack the front CV joint on rear prop shaft. The CC bakes the grease in that one and leads to worse stuff if left untouched.
The low tire isn't really a factor. The diff can handle that size deviation from low tire with no sweat.
 

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Several possibilities here.
from least onerous to catastrophe: 1.The LH axle CV joint has crapped out and the DEM is offline due to bad temp & pressure sensor so no rear drive was there to continue motion.
2. Same with LH axle but the collar connecting angle gear to diff carrier splines sheared when it was called on to carry a lot more torque.
3. Ugly transmission failure and the other stuff is OK.

I really think your problem is with 1 or 2.

CHeck LH axle, if you also got a Dice then check for DEM DTC's. If none then remove the angle gear to inspect collar. IF no problem found then pull gearbox.

With car on stands and an assistant, have asst put car in gear with parking brake applied and watch the rear prop shaft to see if it is turning w/o turning rear wheels. If so then you know DEM is offline and some of the worst stuff should be off the table.

DO yourself a favor and dig out the pasty grease and then repack the front CV joint on rear prop shaft. The CC bakes the grease in that one and leads to worse stuff if left untouched.
The low tire isn't really a factor. The diff can handle that size deviation from low tire with no sweat.
This is great advice however, if I read the OP's statements right, the OP has no drivability at all - not just rear wheel movement failure. I would however prop it up on all four jackstands and try to see movement engagement out of the transmission to the front shafts to see if it vibrates or moves at all. Transmission could be fine but connection to the front shafts could be blown; while idling, can you hear excessive chatter out of the transmission? Sounds like you have a manual, while idling, can you shift through all gears and does it feel like there's engagement (though you've said no movement).

Keep us posted and good luck.
 

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That is why the LH axle is included in the scenarios. Checking LH axle is the first thing after the listed scenarios to start with. I think the rear drive was already off and that is why the LH axle cv breaking stopped his motion.
 

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My bet is that you did not reinstall the axle correclty, they can be tricky to do correctly. If that is correct you cost will be limited to a new axle
 

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I don't have many good clean jokes, but I have a ton of good dirty jokes for you. Here, how about a good first-date joke?


What's the difference between a lamborghini and a boner?












I don't have a lamborghini.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good tips all - thank you. Hope to have it in the air later today and pursue further.
 

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Tom, like yourself I'm a long time lurker, non-poster. However when I read your thread I thought I should share my recent experience.

About three weeks ago with my front right axle clicking I made the decision to have it replaced in lieu of doing it myself. Took it to an independent that had done the same on my previous W8 wagon so I knew they were reliable. Things were copecetic for about two weeks, but then while 200 miles from home (I travel for work) and pulling away from a stop sign I heard "the bang." Presumed it was my Angle Gear Collar, and thought to myself that at least I'll still have FWD and won't be stranded. Imagine my chagrin when I discovered that, no, I was dead in the water. Engine ran fine, transmission seemed to shift okay, but no power to the wheels.

After having it flat bedded to an independent shop, it was eventually discovered that the axle used was the wrong one, and only engaged about 1/4". The only amazing thing about this is that it lasted as long as it did. There are differing axles for manuals vs. autos, and the aftermarket does a very poor job IMO of differentiating the two. So I would offer for consideration that you may be experiencing the same difficulty, as even with the knowledge that I had the wrong axle it was not easy to get the right one (had to go through the dealer and even they were unsure about it as Volvo has apparently just changed the part no. again).

So in any event good luck with your issue, and let me take this opportunity to thank the forum for all the helpful information shared here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wowser, small world, re: V70R4ME
After several weeks of borrowing cars, I finally got to work on mine and found EXACTLY the same thing as you: WRONG AXLE; too short; only engaged the transmission a few millimeters, and the tips of those splines sheared off.
Now that I have it apart I also find that my collar sleeve has the typical rust and worn splines and needs replaced (if/when I can get it off).
(+1 for "copacetic" vocab, are you from Cincinnati?)
 

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I think there may be a catastrophic failure in the transmission and looking for help diagnosing/repairing.

2 weeks ago: started hearing clicking during sharp turns, at first seemed like right turns only, then both left and right. After a few days, and with 25 years of shade tree mechanicking behind me, I decided it was probably a failing CV joint.

I replaced the passenger side axle; though the old one had no broken boots or obvious defect.
The clicking continued and I thought maybe I guessed wrong and would try the the left axle next.
Sounds like you have a broken CV joint. The clicking is the big giveaway. Losing drive makes sense- you lose one of the front axles, you won't move.
 
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