[Italiano79]

Ok so heres the deal, I am new to the Volvo world have owned way too many cars to count, but what I have is 14K original miles on engine and all of car, it has all Evolve parts 3" downpipe, and 3" sport exhaust, as well as the ecu upgraded from Evolve. I just bought their Intake kit, the complete box intake upgrade for it, I installed it and it throws a CEL like a day later for too lean at idle or something like that, I had it scanned at autozone they said its was either MAF, O2, or vacuum line leaks, where I just did the intake I guessed it was that (MAF) sensor. I thought maybe I got some dirt or something on it form removal so I bought a can of MAF cleaner spray and removed the MAF and cleaned it, it worked great for a day again and then the next day CEL came back on. I removed it and put the stock air box back in. My stock box has a K & N filter in it, which I guess can cause MAF problems. The car also has great power with no hesitation between 3- 5 K rpoms , after that its pretty much got nothing, I was talking with one of the guys at Evolve , and he says he reccomends changing the MAF sensor because the oil form the K & N filter probably ruined it, before I go and buy a new one , does this sound like it could be the problem? I just put a boost gauge in this weekend and it spike to around 18 - 20 psi and drops to about 15 - 17 but then into higher rpms its around 12 or lower. ANy help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

[JRL]

Re: 2004 S60r lacking high end power. (Italiano79)

Well, you're doing everything as wrong as you could possibly do, starting with going with Evolve!
3" DP's are usually a waste and most probably your ECU program doesn't match.
If everything is working and matched properly, you should get between 19-20 lbs with cold spikes to maybe 22-23 dropping off SLOWLY to 17-18 lbs.
That's a proper ECU program with everything mated properly.
You have a mishmash of parts that don't work
Oh, if your MAF is messed up it will throw a code, it should not have anything to do with your massive bleed down in power.

 

[Italiano79]

Re: 2004 S60r lacking high end power. (JRL)

all these Evolve parts were on the car when I bought it, I don't feel like changing them, I forgot to mention that the intake gave better top end performance when it was in and the CEL wasnt on, I have since put it back to the stock air box , and this is when I really notice the lack of power. Also, with the stock air box inm, I am not getting a CEL. If the MAF sensor was bad, wouldnt it still throw this code? Anyway, teh only thing I can think of, is that when I bough the car it was on consignment at a volvo dealership, they bought the car off the owner and then sold it to me, they could have possibly done a flash upgrade and wipped out my ecu remap right? But accronding to Don at Evolve he said if it was running off the stock tune, it would only spike to about 17 lbs. and then drop off to around 13 - 14 lbs. Does this sound right to you guys?

 

[TGO]

these cars do not make peak power at redline. they start to fall on their face after 5k. it's a combination of things, but more notably the turbo running out of breath.

stop shifting at redline - it's not a honda!

 

[JRL]

Re: (TGO)

They don't fall off that far

 

[Oceans60R]

Re: 2004 S60r lacking high end power. (Italiano79)

Quote, originally posted by Italiano79 »

Also, with the stock air box in, I am not getting a CEL

You have found the issue. Its the aftermarket airbox.
Solution is to sell it and keep what works.
Having a system too lean code can come from a variety of issues.
Without reading the Datastream, how can someone tell you its a bad MAF?
Since you don't get a light with the Stock Box, then there is a 100% chance its a problem with the aftermarket part.
Personally, I would try and get my money back. There are much cheaper and better alternatives.
http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

 

[volvosince16]

Re: 2004 S60r lacking high end power. (Oceans60R)

Refund from Evolve thats a good one most have a hard time getting even a reply.

 

[Johnr352]

Re: 2004 S60r lacking high end power. (Italiano79)

Quote, originally posted by Italiano79 »

Ok so heres the deal, I am new to the Volvo world have owned way too many cars to count, but what I have is 14K original miles on engine and all of car, it has all Evolve parts 3" downpipe, and 3" sport exhaust, as well as the ecu upgraded from Evolve. I just bought their Intake kit, the complete box intake upgrade for it, I installed it and it throws a CEL like a day later for too lean at idle or something like that, I had it scanned at autozone they said its was either MAF, O2, or vacuum line leaks, where I just did the intake I guessed it was that (MAF) sensor. I thought maybe I got some dirt or something on it form removal so I bought a can of MAF cleaner spray and removed the MAF and cleaned it, it worked great for a day again and then the next day CEL came back on. I removed it and put the stock air box back in. My stock box has a K & N filter in it, which I guess can cause MAF problems. The car also has great power with no hesitation between 3- 5 K rpoms , after that its pretty much got nothing, I was talking with one of the guys at Evolve , and he says he reccomends changing the MAF sensor because the oil form the K & N filter probably ruined it, before I go and buy a new one , does this sound like it could be the problem? I just put a boost gauge in this weekend and it spike to around 18 - 20 psi and drops to about 15 - 17 but then into higher rpms its around 12 or lower. ANy help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

I would try the MAF, and a new stock air filter (not the K and N). See if things stabilize a bit. If so, try to add back in the AMS and see what happens.

 

[phuz]

Re: (JRL)

Oiled air filters are bad, and I would get an OBD-II reader to confirm the bad MAF, but that would be my guess, too.

Quote, originally posted by JRL »

They don't fall off that far

You're absolutely right. Mine peaked at 6k rpm and only fell about 20whp between 6k and 6.8k rpm.

 

[TGO]

mine peaked between 5599 and 5999 rpm...and a 20hp drop is quite a drop, and more than enough reason not to shift at redline.

 

[S60R1]

Re:

Get rid of the evolve tune and either go back to the stock tune or get one from viva or ipd, making sure you tell them everything you have for aftermarket performance parts. Then trouble shoot any CELs or hickups. It's possible that adding the air intake threw off your evolve tune, since it wasn't programmed for it. Go back to stock or re-tune, then trouble shoot.

 

[phuz]

Re: (TGO)

Quote, originally posted by TGO »

mine peaked between 5599 and 5999 rpm...and a 20hp drop is quite a drop, and more than enough reason not to shift at redline.

It is...but on a stock motor, the drop is close to 30whp.

 

[Italiano79]

thanks for all the info guys. I was thinking of getting the Ricca PPC, but am I able to use this where my ecu has already been chipped by Evolve. As a few of you have stated, its not a Honda and I have had many of them lol, I have not been shifting really past 5000 RPM, I just took it once on the highway and left it past 6000 and it was almost to the point where it was breaking up power, so I guess I will shift at 5000- 5550 RPM. other than that Its got decent power for such a heavy car. Still not anywhere I would liek it to be though.

 

[Oceans60R]

Re: (Italiano79)

Quote, originally posted by Italiano79 »

I just took it once on the highway and left it past 6000 and it was almost to the point where it was breaking up power.

You're probably hitting the rev limiter. Not a good idea.
ECU is flashed programmed with new Software and not "chipped" with piggy back hardware so you can flash whatever you'd like.

 

[o2k]

Would a change in cams (if it exists for the R) help with more high end?

 

[Needsdecaf]

Re: (o2k)

R's already have variable valve timing.. No.

 

[Warpedcow]

Re: (phuz)

Quote, originally posted by phuz »

You're absolutely right. Mine peaked at 6k rpm and only fell about 20whp between 6k and 6.8k rpm.

Just my 2 cents on the high-rpm HP or lack thereof...

I ran a G2X telemetry unit at a few trackdays at BIR - this is an accelerometer + GPS unit that is quite accurate. I determined that shifting at ~6400RPM (both 3rd to 4th at about 88MPH and 4th to 5th around 115MPH if memory serves) provided quicker acceleration than shifting at ~6000RPM or lower. The weather was relatively cool, maybe 50-60F.

My guess is it's a crapshoot, I noticed that occasionally the R's "soft" rev limiter would kick in early, around 6100 RPM, whereas most other times it would pull hard to at least 6500 RPM. Probably has to do with a combination of heat soak (high IAT), oil temp, coolant temp, and who knows what else the ECU looks at. And as an aside, there's nothing "bad" about hitting the R's limiter since it is "soft". It just feels like you've lifted off the gas even if you haven't. No "banging" at all. Throttle-by-wire FTW.

To those that are seeing any sort of power loss below 6000 RPM, I seriously suggest you do a good "Stage 0" because your car just isn't running right. Mine ALWAYS pulls hard to at least 6000 RPM, and as long as it isn't too hot outside (which is most of the time in MN) it pulls hard to around 6500 RPM. And yes, I do this a few times each day on my daily commute in both 1st and 2nd (and sometimes 3rd) gear. Granted, I don't have "dyno" data to back this up, but I do have trackday data from that G2X and IMHO that is a more accurate test when you consider the sh*ttyness of most dyno fans.