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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replacing both my front wheel bearings, as well as suspensions. I searched before asking but couldn't find a good answer.

which wheel bearing works best/is fine? I am looking at the following. If you have any advice please share.

Rock auto : [$103.79]
Brake/Wheel Hub : Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0516193 {#2122809, 274298, 31329980, 8672371, 86723715, 9173991, 91739912}
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FCP euro : [$211.99]
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-wheel-hub-w-bearing-s60-v70-xc70-s80-31329980
OE Numbers: 274298, 31329980 FCP ID: 124647
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Amazon.com: [$55-80]
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...s&field-keywords=wheel+bearing+volvo+s60+2004
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for suspension I'm looking at :[$664]
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...rehensive-sachs-struts-oem-mounts-vfsk5-sachs
 

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It all depends on how many times you want to change them out? The GMB's on Amazon are ok not great. They will get you about 60 to 70 K miles on them before you need to swap them out. *** or GKN are the ones to look for. They are the stock producers for almost all European cars. I have almost 300k on my 05 S60 i change mine out around every 80ish. Selling wine kills them!
 

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This is what you want.

You can go with OE if you want to spend more money, but *** wheel bearings are good. I just replaced both of the front wheel bearings on my brothers '03 S60 with *** bearings. I re-used the same bolts and axle bolt but replaced the dust seals.

For suspension Sachs is a good brand, they're OE equivalent. I've had Sachs shocks/struts for about 83k miles with zero issues. And I've had them paired with lowering springs for about 20-30k miles, also with zero issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is what you want.

You can go with OE if you want to spend more money, but *** wheel bearings are good. I just replaced both of the front wheel bearings on my brothers '03 S60 with *** bearings. I re-used the same bolts and axle bolt but replaced the dust seals.

For suspension Sachs is a good brand, they're OE equivalent. I've had Sachs shocks/struts for about 83k miles with zero issues. And I've had them paired with lowering springs for about 20-30k miles, also with zero issues.
That's exactly what im looking at
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ordered both sides, will be checking to see if the one fixes the issue then deciding if i want to return the 2nd or install it.
 

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ordered both sides, will be checking to see if the one fixes the issue then deciding if i want to return the 2nd or install it.
I prefer to do all suspension work in pairs. After all, unless you drive one way around an oval track, both sides of the car will be experiencing similar road conditions and forces over the lifetime of the parts.
I DO SUGGEST you examine the parts very carefuly if they came from Rockauto. They are notorious for sending an old stock/new stock pair and the 2 pieces won't even resemble each other!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I prefer to do all suspension work in pairs. After all, unless you drive one way around an oval track, both sides of the car will be experiencing similar road conditions and forces over the lifetime of the parts.
I DO SUGGEST you examine the parts very carefuly if they came from Rockauto. They are notorious for sending an old stock/new stock pair and the 2 pieces won't even resemble each other!
I bought 2 so that's what im doing. Side 1 is being done currently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
--- update --- stillworking.

For some reason the part REFUSES to come off. ( the upper bolt) I dont know what to do
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
still working. i have a question. is there a right side up for the wheel bearing? i put it on and the screw that holds the rotor to the wheel bearing is now on the bottom, not the top. advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In case anyone wants an update :
finished driver side at 2 am. Drove around. The sound / vibrations have lessoned which leads me to conclude that I was right to think the damage was on both sides . glad I bought two bearings. Will be replacing the other tomorrow.
Then an alignment.

If this doesn't work then its probably the axle .......
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
-Note. I flipped the bearing and greased certain parts. I will upload images when im done.

Here is us working on it.

 

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still working. i have a question. is there a right side up for the wheel bearing? i put it on and the screw that holds the rotor to the wheel bearing is now on the bottom, not the top. advice?
You referring to the hex bolt that holds the rotor in place? If so it doesn't matter if it's on the top or bottom lol it's going to rotate. The back of the bearing sort of has a rectangular shape so it can essentially only fit on 2 ways to get the bolt holes to line up but there's no "correct" orientation. Just make sure you use some copper grease on the axle splines.

Also, definitely would recommend doing the other side. Typically with wear items like these that come in pairs, when one sides goes, the other isn't far behind. One way to tell if it's your wheel bearing is by when you corner. When you take the load off the bad wheel bearing (ie. so if it's your right bearing, when you turn right the noise should subside because you're putting the load on the left wheel bearing) but if you turn left, it would get worse because you're loading up the right (bad) bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Finished part 2 around 4 pm. Not bad the 2nd time around

My recommendations are that you A ) buy the *** bearings . B)Buy a new dust ring for each bearing you replace. I didn't do this but am buying them to put in now.
 

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I heard its still really cold up there. Man you got steel ones to be up doing this at 2am.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I heard its still really cold up there. Man you got steel ones to be up doing this at 2am.
It was 50 when i started and 30 when I ended the first day. Then 35 the seccond day.

It had to be done and i didn't want to pay a mechanic.
 
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