SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know how the vacuum line disconnects from the brake booster pump? I thought it was like a gas line and that you just pry the clip out with a screw driver. I broke part of the clip so I stopped since I do not have a replacement one. I then got online to see if I could just purchase a new clip and but it looks like I have to purchase the whole line for over $100. Before I break the clip completely out I am just wanting to verify if this is the way it is suppose to come out? Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,373 Posts
The exact opposite of what I believe you did. You need to depress the green clip (which is on the bottom of the hose). So, put one finger under the coupler & your thumb above. Squeeze tight & pull off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The exact opposite of what I believe you did. You need to depress the green clip (which is on the bottom of the hose). So, put one finger under the coupler & your thumb above. Squeeze tight & pull off.
Thanks pczeilon. My friend told me it was probably a squeeze one as well. I just hope I didn't screw it up already. On the replacement pump it still has the connector attached to it so I am hoping I can rob the clip out of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My replacement pump came in but something doesn't seem right. I put the key in and it runs for about 10 seconds and shuts off. The old one did not do anything (it was definitely bad). The problem is that when I turn the key to on the pump never shuts off. I let it run for a minute and a half and it never shut off. I turned the key to off and it ran for 10 seconds more and shut off. Could I have a bad sensor that plugs into the booster? Vacuum leak? I am not sure where to start.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,305 Posts
Probably a leak, and maybe the same issue that killed the old pump. Check the booster chamber first, then the external hose fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,373 Posts
Read through these two threads:

1

2

We really need a sticky with all this different info combined into one.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,305 Posts
I'll look into merging them and adding to sticky. Need to do some housekeeping on it too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies. This forum is very helpful. I bet I do have a vacuum leak. I will do some test tonight to see if I can figure out what is bad or leaking. I just hope the line with the check valve on it is easy to get out. I have taken the battery out before to make sure the sensor in the brake booster was plugged in but that was it I did not pay attention to the vacuum line. It seems like a lot of other people have issues with the pump after the PCV goes bad. Not sure if it is coincidence or if all the extra air that being sucked in caused damage to other components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I finally got my issue solved with my brake booster pump always running. I did not know whether it was the sensor that was in the brake booster or the check valve. I found a local junk yard that had a brake booster in it and they only wanted $40 for it and it came with the check valve and sensor. I had a feeling it was the check valve based upon the link #1 on post 6. My symptoms were similar so I replaced the check valve first and it fixed the issue. I did notice that the plastic around the pins was slightly melted as well (I will post the pic below). It only activates the pump after I press the brake pedal unlike before running all the time. It was easy to replace. I went ahead and did a write up for it as well below.

Remove the battery and the tray by removing the three bolts circled in red. There is also a sensor plugged into the tray. The clip is not a squeeze clip (you have to kind of pull out on a tab and slide it off).


Here is the location of the check valve once you get the battery and tray out of the way. It is on the right side of the booster. It has a two wire connector plugged into it. It can probably be removed before the valve is pulled out of the booster but I pulled the check valve out first.



Location of the connector. Push down on the silver wire on the connector and then pull the connector off.


Disconnect the vacuum line to the left of the master cylinder by squeezing the two clips on the side and pulling it off the other vacuum line. Once it is free the check valve and vacuum line can be fished out. Next fish the new line in and reassemble everything.


Picture of the old check valve connector that is a little melted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
The check valve circled in red, was that the bad valve?

I have a leak somewhere, can be heard inside the car for 2,3,4 seconds after shutting down. Also wondering how the vacuum pump operates, cant hear it, not warm, no nothing. On the brakes coming to a stop i have a very slight dip in rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
Got the connector off, but the bit into the booster is sitting firmly, does it just pull straight out or is there a trick to it?

Got it, tapped the brake pedal to releave vacumm, out it came. Any way to check if it is working correctly?

With the hose off, I can suck thru from the hose end, not theplug/connector end.. i guess applying power o the connector shuts it..

Im guessing either my pump is shot or the vacuum switch.. need more info on the vacuum switch and how it operates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
Tested the vacuum switch, seems fine

Bridged the vacuum switch connector with the hose off, got 12volts to the pump connector and pump not running.
When testing the pump at its connection not plugged in, circuit broken, no peep from multimeter.
Ohh god how I hate eletrics.. ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
Read them all, and then some..:)
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top