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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so I've looked through some threads, and either it's way to early in the afternoon, or spent a bit too long on this, but I'm a bit confused.

So I have a 2004.5 chassis no, 47xxx (Aus, not US if that makes any difference to chassis cut offs)

I have a Denso 3 pin white plug alternator, the connector to the alternator has 3 pins, pin 1 and 3 are tied together with black/white cable, and pin 2 runs through to ECU (I assume) on red/white
The label on the alternator has cooked off (..again Australia..) so can't pull the number off that
VIDA just says "150A LIN, Denso"

So if anyone would be able to help point me to what, I would be thankful, and not too, because... well... money...

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hmm if it is the DAN1059 (Denso) 3 plug, the specs says it's a PL11 plug, ECU controlled LIN and dummy terminals, would that mean, any other ECU controlled alternator that would fit and produce required amps work, assuming that what it sends over LIN is what the ECU wants...?
Sorry, I'm cheap. Also at this stage my testing car (and only) for LIN poking (that I haven't gotten around to yet) requires an alternator, and also decided to tell me at 100kph, just passed the exit off ramp too, before the entry on ramp...
 

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Okay so look at your alternator plug (not the one that handles the power output, but the other one).
Since you say it is the Denso 3 plug I'll assume it is white/gray?

Okay from here what you need to do is determine if the white plug on the harness side two outside wires join the harness (for a total of 3 wires leaving the alternator) or if they just loop to each other and only the middle goes and joins the wiring harness. There's a VIN split about 045XXX or 046 or 047 or somewhere around there that dictates what type of alternator you need. It sounds like already have done the hard work but double check before you order (because money of course)

If the wires on the outside terminals of the white plug just loop to each other, you need: AL9436X which has plug type 435 (Volvo PN 36001463)
If the wires on the outside terminals of the white plug JOIN the harness to the ECU, you need: AL7673X which has plug type 337? (Volvo PN 8602920)

Further clarifying information is that:
AL9436X which has plug type 435 (Volvo PN 36001463) - Chassis: From 045204- And Up (Last 6 digits of VIN)
AL7673X which has plug type 337? (Volvo PN 8602920) - Chassis # -045203 (last 6 digits of VIN)

You want to ensure you get the correct type, as the older one for the older chassis is NOT self regulating and will overcurrent resulting in ruining of several electrical systems in the car including overcharging the battery. The later one is self-regulating and even if the part that communicates with the computer doesn't work, it will still work on your car, you'll just have the annoying triangle to deal with.

I just had to deal with this nightmare, hence why I know....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you avenger09123!

From that I gather with your very easy and detailed breakdown (I do mean that, thank you!)

Since I have the plug that has pins 1 & 3 (outside) loop to each other, I need the AL9436X

And since it has been a few days, I've gotten comfortable with spending the money, although the cat hasn't, pretty pissed off still actually

So now I can shift procrastination to getting the cheapest possible, while also making sure the dollar doesn't go out of wack (waited for a sale, and the discount was less than the exchange difference from when I first went to get it)
 

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Thank you avenger09123!

From that I gather with your very easy and detailed breakdown (I do mean that, thank you!)

Since I have the plug that has pins 1 & 3 (outside) loop to each other, I need the AL9436X

And since it has been a few days, I've gotten comfortable with spending the money, although the cat hasn't, pretty pissed off still actually

So now I can shift procrastination to getting the cheapest possible, while also making sure the dollar doesn't go out of wack (waited for a sale, and the discount was less than the exchange difference from when I first went to get it)
Can you do me a favor? While you're in there, can you put your phone in there and take a photo of your upper alternator mount? I have a new engine (2 years old or so) but they reused my upper alternator mount from my 2009 LKQ motor that was put in it that went kaput - what that makes me do (and I have found I am pretty much alone in this) - it makes my belt jump teeth towards the alternator, and I've found I have to cut the entire extra bit off the alternator to shift it over enough so the belt doesn't hop teeth, and I have a feeling that my upper alternator bracket is either the wrong one, or has been updated.
 
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