[toymaniac]

I picked up a T5 auto that has the typical delayed shift problem. Picked it up for cheap to replace a Jetta. Much more room in the V70 that's for sure.



I than picked up some parts.

A M56 manual trans from a 2003 S60 non-turbo car. The tag is rubbed clean so I don't know if I ended up with a M56L or a M56H but I assume it's an H.

I got a manual shifter with cables from a 2004 S60.

I bought a pedal set from a 2004 V70 R

A stock dual mass flywheel from a 2001 V70

The last used part I got is a set of XC70 roof rails.

The new parts I got are:
Aftermarket parts:
A clutch set which included the slave cylinder. I got a 2001 clutch set and the
A clutch master cylinder for a 2001 V70 - more on this later, there was a problem
I ended up having to get a set of axles. The auto axles are the correct length and have the correct splines. The ONLY difference is the seal surface diameter. The auto axles are too small and don't fit the manual axle seals.

Volvo parts
A clutch line for a 2001 V70. I couldn't find this used so I ordered one. (Pt. # 30759377)
Rear transmission mount (Pt. # 9485192)
Flywheel bolts (Pt # 9454743)
Clutch pressure plate bolts (Pt # 959219)

I used speedtuningusa for the ECU flash.

Leni

 

[toymaniac]

I than proceeded to get the car up on jacks and start disconnecting parts:



I did remember to put the jack stands behind the subframe bolts:



I than pulled the ECU out. I wanted to get it shipped out to the tuners asap so I would make sure to get it back in time. Remember to disconnect the battery before pulling the ECU.

OOO Computers:



I didn't order the ECU removal tool so I had to take the surround off:



It's annoying because one end has a lip that is inside a breathing tube.

Once the surround is off I could pull up on the computers and the whole connector lifts out of the box. That gives you access to the two pink slides per computer you have to slide a little at a time to get the computers to disengage. It really only takes like 3 or 4 pushes on each side of the computer for it to disengage.



Leni

 

[toymaniac]

I than moved on to the air filter box. The lower box is connected to the mounting bracket with these 4-pronged clips:





I found out a 9mm socket fits perfectly over the 4 prongs. If you push down it will release all 4 prongs and allow the box to pop off.





Leni

 

[toymaniac]

I disconnected the auto shifter cable and trans wiring harness and than moved to the interior. I know I jump around a lot.

I found the hole for the clutch master cylinder:





The two nuts actually fit the master cylinder. The silver thing in the hole is a little metal plate that is glued to the firewall. If you take the nuts off you still have to punch the plate off. Than the master cylinder slides right in.

I took the center console apart and discovered the surround around the auto shifter fits the manual shifter. It's the same parts. The S60 surround connects to the shifter in the same way just a different shape so the shifter is the same between the models.



Leni

 

[toymaniac]

The shifter came out rather uneventfully. Just like I like it. There are 4 bolts that hold the shifter to the floor. The manual shifter uses the same bolts and bolts into the same place. The shifter cables fit through the firewall through the same hole. Two nuts hold the cable passthrough to the firewall. The manual cable passthrough is the same part with a two hole boot. I decided to remove the shifter lock for the auto shifter. This requires removing the top and bottom steering shaft covers to get access to the end of the cable connected to the ignition switch. I discovered removing the lower cover is easier with the steering wheel turned upside down.

Other than that you just gotta suffer through pulling the cables out. They get stuck on everything!!!

Ok, on to the pedals. I learned a lot from trial and error and putting nuts on and off more times than I should have.

On the P2 model cars you can't get the pedal assembly out as a whole unit without pulling the dash out. You also can't slide the pin (long bolt) all the way out with the pedal brackets bolted to the firewall as it hits the heater box. So you have to take all 4 nuts off the pedal assembly brackets and pull the pin nut off. Than the brackets can be angled enough to slide the brake pedal off the pin bolt. Replace it with the manual pedal. You can than bolt the bracket back onto the firewall as the clutch pedal an bracket bolt on to the side of the brake pedal bracket. It's a giant PITA.

I did figure out one trick. To get to the upper pedal bracket bolts I removed the gauge cluster and was able to stick a long extension in and reach the nuts:





Leni

 

[tolian2]

this is an awesome thread. going to follow it.
how much does the tuning cost?

 

[toymaniac]

Tuning from speedtuningusa for a manual re-flash and a tune was $375 plus $25 for expedited shipping. I ended up getting the ECU back the day after speedtuning received it.

The only other tuner that I know of that performs manual re-flashes is ARD. I chose speedtuning because the reviews I have read online say the speedtuning tune is best for mildly modified cars. So if you have a downpipe and high flow intake it will match well. I do not plan on cams or bigger turbo, etc so I went with speedtuning. ARD from what I have read is great at maximizing power when your car has a little more than just bolt-ons and want to get above 20psi boost. This is my DD so I don't plan on going that route.

ARD was helpful on the phone when I spoke with them about options. Very nice guy.

Oliver at speedtuning absolutely blew me away with great customer service before and after purchase. He answered all my pre-purchase newbie questions which was great, but the response after purchase was the best. He responded late on weekends to my questions. I had an issue getting the car running after the swap because some of the wires going to the coil packs were shorting on the valve cover. Oliver walked me through diagnosis to find the problem. He didn't have to, it wasn't a problem he caused or even related to his product, but he still spent the time to help me out.

I actually have the car running now and am just posting up what I have done. The tune from speedtuning is exactly what I wanted. It acts like a stock car but if you get in it a little it has a little edge. A little more boost and fun. I don't have a boost gauge so I don't know what it's hitting. What I love is even cruising in 4th gear at 2000rpm it has enough torque to accelerate.

Well that's my plug for tuning, I'll post up more info about the swap latter.

Leni

 

[thaxman]

OK, so how does the shift knob come off for the manual?

 

[tolian2]

pretty much according to VIDA instructions. was pretty easy to take off. I had to re-skin mine with some leftover bmw leather.

 

[toymaniac]

OK, so how does the shift knob come off for the manual?

I never removed the shift knob. I replaced the whole shifter assembly.

This is what I bought:



Here is a picture without cables:



You can see the holes where it bolts to the floor.

Leni

 

[toymaniac]

I did try and install the clutch master cylinder until after the trans was out but I learned something when I did put it in. The V70 R clutch pedal has a bend in it and requires a longer clutch master cylinder. So the clutch pedal and master cylinder have to match and be from a 2001 to 2007 car.

I didn't take many pictures when removing or installing the transmissions.

Pulling the trans out was pretty standard for a front wheel drive car. Supported the engine. Than dropped the subframe. The axles came out next. Than the flexplate bolts and finally all of the bolts holding the trans on. When installing the flywheel you need a special tool, it's a 12mm 12-point driver. Looks like a giant 12-point torx bit. Autozone carries it in stock so I didn't have a hard time finding one.

Some choices I made:

1. I unbolted the steering rack and sway bar from the subframe and left them in the car. I thought this was easier than unbolting the steering column.
2. There are three motor mounts that bolt to the subframe. The mount at the front of the engine under the crank, a mount on the front of the subframe behind the radiator and the lower torque mount. That's it. The front mount on my car was actually ripped and came apart which actually made it easier to remove.
3. There is one bellhousing bolt that hid from me. It's below the starter and above the motor mount and I didn't see it. There are also two bolts on the top of the bellhousing behind the wiring harness but I expected those to be there.

4. Rear motor mount. I heard the rear motor mount was different between the auto and manual transmissions but didn't know which mount it was. On this car the mount actually bolts to the steering rack. It is way back there.

Here is the mount on the auto trans:




Here it is on the manual trans:



Obviously doesn't fit.

This is why. Here is the front of the auto trans:



Totally flat.

Here is the manual trans:



The housing around the diff is smaller.

I ordered part number 9485192, it was only $50.

Leni

 

[toymaniac]

I stared at the clutch line routing for a while. Here is a picture of the line where it runs from the body to the trans, the rubber part of the clutch line:



The other side of the line runs on top of the frame rail behind a metal bracket that holds the ABS unit:



There is a little clip you can buy you can see in the picture that hold the line onto the frame rail.

The reverse light switch also gave me some trouble. This is the switch that came with the trans:



I could not find the plug for it so I made a ghetto version:



The speaker wire plugs slide onto the terminals tight, they aren't coming off. I than wrapped it up to keep it a little cleaner:



I than ran one wire to a ground and the other all the way back to the REM.

Here is the wiring for the reverse lights from the factory:



The reverse lights are activated by relay 2/80. The problem is the REM controls relay 2/80. So I tied into relay 2/52 which is actually for the trailer plug. I have no plans to tow so I used it.



I connected the wire I had run from the reverse switch on the trans to the blue/white wire (terminal 4) on relay 2/52. I removed the blue wire from relay 2/80 (terminal 1) and connected it to the blue wire on relay 2/52 (terminal 3). Works great. One word of caution, relay 2/52 gets power with the ignition off so if you put the car in reverse with the key off the lights will still come on.

I am still working through a few wiring things and will post solutions (or questions) when I figure it out.

Leni

 

[JRL]

Does it run and run over 4000 RPM?
I doubt the Speedtuning ECU will allow this, you need a special tune to let it know it does not have an automatic anymore

 

[toymaniac]

Does it run and run over 4000 RPM?
I doubt the Speedtuning ECU will allow this, you need a special tune to let it know it does not have an automatic anymore

Yup, revs all the way to redline. I haven't tried pushing it past 6000 rpm yet but I don't think I'll try either.

Speedtuning offers both a soldered in powerchip and re-flashing options. He did a full re-flash on my ECU to manual specs. I hooked up the clutch pedal and the cruise control even works. :thumbup:

I'll post up all the wiring mods I had to make tomorrow. I want to take another picture.

Leni

 

[JRL]

Good
It was a problem a few years ago

 

[tolian2]

This thread needs to be pinned on top for reference. I like the fact that the re-flash is a no-big-deal now for relatively low money.

 

[Swagger XC]

If only it was easy to do to awd...

 

[toymaniac]

Here is the new rear trans mount:



You can also see the passenger side axle shaft. The seal surface is only about 1/4" smaller diameter than the shaft.

One thing I learned today is the shifter cables are supposed to go between the steering column u-joint and the firewall. I put them on the engine side of the steering shaft and noticed they rest hard on the steering shaft and would probably get rubbed through. Just remember, route the cables between the shaft and the firewall.

 

[toymaniac]

Alright on to the wiring.

For cruise control the clutch position sensor needs to be wired in. I actually need the connector still, haven't found one but I found a great place to route the wires. The hood release cable routes through a wire protector. I ran the wires into the protector and through the firewall:



The hood release cable comes out from under the fuse box. It's the white tube in this picture:



The wire protector on the right is what I put around my wires. On the end of the wire protector that comes through the firewall is this rubber nipply thing:



I cut one of the nipples off and ran my wires through it and than put them in a new wire protector.

I ran the clutch position sensor wire to the ECU. It's item 7/123 in the diagram below. The position sensor connects to ECU terminals B:4 and B:15. Terminal B:4 is shared by one of the brake switches (7/124) so I spliced that one in. It's the brown wire. Terminal B:15 did not have a terminal in it so I took the connectors apart and took one from the TCU connector.



That was a pain but it works. The cruise is working.

Leni

 

[toymaniac]

Finally the wiring to get it running.

The most nervous part was cutting this plug off. No going back:



Than I connected the yellow/black wire and one of the black wires. All the black wires in this connector are ground wires. The yellow/black wire is a signal to the CEM for the start interlock.



The last thing I had to do was jumper the hi-speed network wires at the TCU connector. There are two sets of network wires coming to the TCU. They are the green and white wires that are twisted together. I cut all 4 and connected the green wires together and the white wires together. This bypasses the TCU in the network sequence so you don't get a warning on the dash about no trans and allow the CEM to communicate with the ECU. Here is the TCU wiring diagram:



You can see the yellow/black wire at terminal B:1 that turns yellow and connects to the CEM.

The two sets of hi-speed network wires are terminals B:1, B:13 & B:2, B:14. After searching through other diagrams I found out the wires from the TCU terminals B:2, B:14 go to the CEM terminals B:17, B:18. In the manual cars those wires are connected together and leave the (non-existent) TCU out of the loop. Just taking the TCU out breaks the network between the ECU and the CEM and causes a no-start issue. Leaving the TCU in allows the car to start but throws errors on the dash.

I connected the hi-speed network wires and removed the TCU. Works great.

Leni