[Rob 101]

Hi Darell...<BR>I just received my rear mudguards from Brentwood (only $27.00) and was wondering what variations/enhancements of the recommended installation procedures you came up with. It seems pretty straight forward:<BR>1) remove rear wheels <BR>2) drill out the existing 3 rivets <IMG SRC="http://www.swedespeed.com/ubb/eek.gif"><BR>3) install mudguards w/ new rivets<BR>4) reinstall wheels <P>The only thing I can think of is to install the mudguard 1st, and then drill out the rivets through the pilot holes to help in the alignment.<P>Thanks!<P>

 

[darell]

Hey Rob, good to see you out and about -<P>The instructions are correct, of course, but there are a couple of things to consider (Most of which I mentioned in Roger's thread).<P>Drilling out the old rivets is not as simple as it sounds because they tend to spin in place. You have to reach around the back and hold them with pliers while your drill gets a bite on them. I used one size smaller drill bit too, which seemed to work better.<P>If I did it again (and I may just reinstall mine), I would use stainless screws instead of the supplied rivets, because as hard as I tried, I could NOT get the flaps tight enough with the rivets that would break off too soon. I would also use adhesive (silicone or trim tape) on the part that wraps over the paint. My worry is that as these things flap in the (often 100mph+) breeze, they will rub against the paint, since all kinds of crud will get between the flap and the paint there.<P>Something else you'll notice is that the mud flap instructions tell you to torque the rear wheels to a different spec than the manual (!)<P> <IMG SRC="http://www16.brinkster.com/darelldd/flapperssmall.jpg"> <P>- Darell<P>

 

[Rob 101]

Hellooooo Darell - <P>Thanks for the tips... I would think the stainless screws would provide a tighter fit. What torque have you been using for your wheel lugs?<P>Can never seem to find enough time for cars these days, but the opportunity arose this last week to come up for air and smell the carnuba... so I seized the rare opportunity. Since the weekend is almost over, I will shoot for the coming 3 day weekend for the mudguards.<P>Later,<BR>Rob<P>

 

[darell]

Hey Rob -<P>I think I used 85 ft. lbs....and the rear wheels have't fallen off yet. The flap instructions say 83 and the manual says something higher. You will NOT believe the collection of brake dust on the inside of your wheels. Yuck.<P> <BR>

 

[Roger Eastman]

My Owner's Manual says 100 ft.lb. for wheel bolt torque. I have been using 96.<P>Anyone come up with a peachy keen way to align the wheel holes with the bolt holes? I got some metric bolts of the correct size, ground the heads down to the diameter of the threads, then screw one into one of the bolt holes, and use this as a pilot to mount the wheel. After you get 2 or 3 of the wheel bolts in, you remove the pilot. This also keeps the disc lined up with the axle flange while the dismounting/remounting process is going on.

 

[darell]

Hmmm. I've never had a problem with that. I just hang the wheel up on the hub lip, and rotate it until I can see the threaded hole peeking through. Of course I have to use all three of my hands to do this maneuver.<P>-d<P>