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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted about buying a v70 and codes it was throwing on another post. It has 155k on it and it is the automatic transmission. I probably have roughly a grand to spend on it to make sure everything on it is in good shape. The guy I bought it from said the timing belt had been replaced by a Volvo dealer and had a shown they had worked on the car. I took his word for it but called the dealer after I bought the car. The dealership had maintained the car but only had records 5 years back to 115k and they did not show a timing belt replacement. So I figure the belt should be replaced just to make sure. The dealership wants 500 I think that is cheap but in an effort to stretch my dollars I might do it myself. I think I can do it but I would hate to mess it up. Any suggestions on how hard it is. Beyond that the struts are shot so I will replace those. Any suggestions on how to spend money on the car are welcome and brand s of stuff like struts or anything else would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would imagine anything with 155k on it would need something done to it. I have no issue spendy money on it. If I am going to buy another vehicle it will be a XJ to go with the Volvo. I sold a CJ I had owned for 18 years to free up cash to fix up a Cherokee i had owned for 14 years. A month later the Cherokee got totaled. The point is i drive stuff for a good number of years. I bought the Volvo on a wim. I like the car but miss the Cherokee. Just want to make the Volvo last and drive well.
 

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It's WHIM and you bought the wrong year.
Search 2001 Volvos and 2001 Volvo transmissions.
Either drive it until it quits or sell it and buy a MUCH better 2004-2007.

You will spend 3K minimum and hopefully make it OK to drive on a car that's worth a grand wholesale (maybe)! :facepalm:
 

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when I was shopping for ours, to replace a XJ which seems to be a recent trend, I followed JRL's advice and only shopped for 04-07.

Now owning an 04 I'd probably limit that to only 05-07 to get the more up to date can bus.

someone also told me that the most expensive volvo I bought would be the cheapest one.

and that does seem to be true. They do not like to be maintenance deferred.

Take a look at doing the timing belt yourself. it's cake compared to others I've done. you don't even need an impact to pull the crank pulley, actually you can change the belt without even removing the crank pulley.
 

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Best place to put your money right now? Pay someone familiar with Volvo to look it over and assess the over all condition of the car.

If it was dealer serviced for the last 50K maybe the car will be OK for a while. Maybe the common failure points have been dealt with and you will have a trouble free car for the next 10-20k miles. BUT, the odds aren't good. :)

Knowledge is power, so spend some money to get the car assessed. Once armed with that information, report back and the internet will haggle over the best way to spend your dollar.
 

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Unless it's affecting the safety of the vehicle, like brakes or suspension, and it is within reasonable cost to fix, I'd just drive it until the belt breaks.

Have you actually inspected the belt? Is there a service sticker in the engine bay? How does it look? Pictures?
 

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I second what Antherzoll says. And baby that transmission. Don't go towing anything or setting any 0-60 records.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the car checked out today. The PVC checked out with what they said was a strong negative vacum, timing belt has been changed they said because it wasn't a Volvo belt on it, they couldnt find anything to indicate when it was done, normal leaks on the turbo, lower control arm bushings need replaced, needs new brake lines in the front, new front struts were recommended, new thermostat and they said the tranny for the moment was strong but recommended a tranny change. It also was showing CEM 1a5a com with rem control module signal missing and ecm-4801 three way cat converter efficiency bank 1. There were others those were the ones he thought were causing the p0244 code.
 

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Well, that doesn't sound to bad considering what you could have been told.

The internet is filled with horror stories of what could happen to you and your transmission. The odds of it lasting you a long time are low, but you may get some use out of the car if you decide to keep it. Or the flip side is you could sell it before it develops an issue...

The CEM fault certainly could be a harbinger for future CEM faults and your rear wiper may not work. If it's not an AWD I don't think you are going to loose a lot of function. Anyone remember how many function the REM handles on a 01 non-AWD? They didn't tell him the rear brake lights aren't working, so I guess most functions are active. Or was it later years that the relays for the brake lights fail? I forget.

REM, by the way, stands for Rear Electronic Module.


The converter fault can be ignored if you are in a non-emissions state.



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The transmission: you will get varying options on whether to flush, not to flush, performing multiple drain and re-fill options, or just not touching it.

I have a friend with an 01 XC70 that the valve body has been bad for years that has been nursed along without complete failure. The owner knows it's going to leave them stranded, but it's not worth putting a transmission in the car, so they are driving it until it explodes and then getting another car. It's not a great choice, and the same car also is overdue for a timing belt, but it is an option. The car is kept local so that when it fails the towing won't be terrible. Their logic is the value of the car is it's weight in scrap metal and body parts, regardless whether the transmission or engine is working. Trade in currently is around $1,000, value sold immobile to a junk yard is probably $500. It's not worth spending $3,000-$4,000 to do timing and put a transmission in it when it only gains them $500 in the inevitable value since they will be trading it in within a year.
 

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Buying fluid and DIY drain'n'fills can be seen as a money-wise way of dealing with the tranny. If the tranny is already dying, you have spent a minimal amt of $$, but OTOH, changing the fluid to fresh stuff with the correct viscosity can renew the operation of one that has been laboring with bad fluid but isn't quite bad yet.
 
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