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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all

I recently purchased a 2000 XC to be my work commuter. Some work was already done, front suspension and brakes all around, so I just ordered the rear shocks (holy expensive) and some IPD sway bars. Had to have some electrical gremlins fixed as well as replace the 02 sensors. Running great now.

So for a bit more fun, I have a used 16t ready to go in. Going to get it tuned as well, I'm quite looking forward a bit of added powa.

Eventually I'm sure I'll do some pads, rotors, lines, and good fluid for the brakes. And that basically my plan for the wagon. Has 136k miles right now, I'd like another 100k out of it.

Anyone else up in Northern Colorado? I'm always interested in what other people are doing with those cars. My Volvo knowledge is pretty slim currently.
 

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sub frame inserts are a nice compliment to the sway bars. plus they're cheap and easy to install
 

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Personally I'd wait to do subframe bushings until there's an excuse to actually drop the subframe and then do it right and go with the Kaplhenke Racing bushings.

Sounds like a good plan. You can upgrade your front brakes to 302mm rotors (same caliper is used) by finding the caliper brackets. I believe Volvo just discontinued carrying them so you'll have to find them from a junkyard or a member selling them on here. Other good, fairly inexpensive upgrades would be to upgrade the engine mounts such as the top engine mount and torque mount and then make sure the others (front, rear, hydraulic and firewall) are all in good shape.

There are quite a few builds out there of varying intensities on the AWD/XC LPT wagons if you want to get some ideas/inspiration. Member 'lookforjoe' has probably gone the most all out in terms of his multi-year long project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What models have the caliber brackets for the 302mm? I saw IPD has the rotors. I'd certainly like that. Simple, cheap, always great to have some extra braking.

Any suggestions on where to find the engine mounts?
 

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No firewall mount Will, it's a 2000
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you guys recommend a dp? It's difficult for me to justify the price if it's only going to be a bit of difference. Certainly the case with a cat back too.

Rear suspension is in, swaybars are in, 16t turbo is in, getting the finished tune (for now) tomorrow. The tuner is recommending a dp and green injectors (I currently have brown). I was hoping to not have to swap out anything besides the turbo for this, but the injectors appear to be a bit of an issue. Can anyone point me to other 16t builds? I'd certainly appreciate it.
 

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I'm a little surprised that you would need to have green injectors for a 16T upgrade. It all comes down to what the tuner actually made the tune for but usually for that kind of upgrade people either leave the stock 315cc injectors or go up to whites or blues.

Before doing a full engine rebuild and swapping in a better M58 as detailed in the link in my signature, I upgraded my 13G turbo to a 15G (very similar to the 16T) back in 2008. At that time, I used a stock T5 manual ECU (you can't just swap ECUs on your 2000) and white injectors. The car had some mild supporting mods such as a TME catback exhaust and a high flow air filter but not much else. The car ran very well like that with great gas mileage and I did put it on the dyno where it ran 218whp and 240wtq.

At the end of the day, it's good to follow the advice of whomever is actually writing the software for your car but if you aren't satisfied, you can always get in touch with another tuner/company and see if you like their way of tuning better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, turbo is on, swaybars are are in, wheels and tires on on, brakes are on the way, and it's tuned! But it died on me the other day. 50mph while coasting and just completely died. Cranks but won't start. No spark. Crankshaft sensor is in but no dice, camshaft sensor is on the way. I had just changed plugs as well to deal with spark blowout, still need to regap them lower. Hopefully will be running again soon....


And I appreciate the response! I'd be quite happy with 218whp.
 

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I had something very similar happen a few months ago and my coil had died but I have a '98 so you've got individual coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Aye, that I do, and I'm not getting spark from any of them. My rational was it should still run too, even if it wouldn't be on all cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Figured it out! Well, the dealership did anyway. I replaced the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors (kinda spendy) only to find out it was a shorted wire and blown fuse. That's what I get for not knowing there was a fuse box with a screwed on panel next to the other one I did check... Such is life. Apparently when I replaced spark plugs and put the cover back on I smushed two coil wise under it, which promptly shorted, and blew the ignition fuse. That's what I get for getting in a hurry and not taking the intercooler piping off!

I'm just glad it was something simple. I shoulda just taken it to the dealership right away and had them diagnose it.

Regardless, it's running! I regapped the plugs and am having significantly less blow out between 3-4k rpm. Prolly need to go a tad smaller on the gap. In order to do that, I need to buy some good feeler gauges. My little advanced auto coin is pretty much at its limits.

I'm enjoying the new power! It's a significant improvement in the mid range, particularly on the freeway. It no longer feels completely out of breath. Still not fast (naturally), but it is adequately fun now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I had something very similar happen a few months ago and my coil had died but I have a '98 so you've got individual coils.
So the coil on cylinder 3 wasn't working correctly... I actually replaced all of the coils and added Volvo brand plugs. Purrs like an kitten now! No more breakup in any rpm, smooth consistent power.

I borrowed a friends OBDII code reader that does live data. Showed 24lbs/min airflow peak when just warmed up. After driving a bit the IAT went up significaly (30 degrees over ambient) and dropped it down to 22.5lbs/min airflow and held there (3 pulls). So, an intercooler upgrade is certainly in order. Regardless, I was hoping for 250chp/200whp, so it's certainly close. I will prolly get it dynoed here soon now that it's running correctly just out of curiosity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And the driveshaft went. FML. Just got it rebuilt and put back in. Threw some Blizzacks on for the winter. Back to driving it as my DD. Hopefully I'm ahead of the curve now on maintenance that was neglected by the previous owner(s). MPG with the turbo swap is 17mpg city, 20-21mpg highway. Same as stock.
 

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Put... Put a lift on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Wheel alignment, tie rod replaced, and ss brake lines installed. This is one spendy car to get up to par. I'd like one month where there isn't some maintenance issue...
 

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It already is lifted... That's why I bought the XC.
No, silly, the V70 XC is not "lifted". A stock Jeep is not lifted, though it may be high compared to other cars. I'm talking about this:


Throw some spacers on top of the front struts and some taller springs in the back like what ARD did to this car. You'd get so many internet Volvo points. At least from me!

Just hang in there, keep taking care of the car and eventually you'll get some maintenance free months out of it!
 

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Wheel alignment, tie rod replaced, and ss brake lines installed. This is one spendy car to get up to par. I'd like one month where there isn't some maintenance issue...
Good luck! I am still hoping for a maintenance free week!
 
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