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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Wanted to pick your brains on a couple of things going on with my car.

First, when getting off of the freeway, my clutch pedal gets really mushy. I've tried bleeding it out and that seemed to help for a little while. It especially gets mushy after a run of hard acceleration. Any thoughts?

Second, I have a rattle under braking from the front left corner. I have 80k miles and the original stuts, should I replace both front struts, or could it be the mount? Thoughts? The rattle most of the time seems to follow bumps in the road, only occurs during braking and the tire on the front left is more worn than my other tires. Also, the steering is starting to vibrate as well so the condition is getting worse.

I could really use some help on these problems. Your input is appreciated. Thanks.
 

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#1 unfortunately sounds like the slave cylinder. :( Volvo has updated the slave / air vent pipe assembly. Link to related thread.

#2 sounds like control arm bushings. Check out the whole suspension, steering linkage & motor mounts while you're under there. Lots of threads on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply.

I think when I talked to the dealership, they said to replace the clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder it was going to cost around $2000... Not looking forward to that, so I'll just baby it. If it starts to occur more often then I'll take it in.

I'll search around for the suspension stuff.
 

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Tasca auto parts and I'd look for a good independent Volvo shop. Good luck!

I'd also do the rear main seal and trans input shaft seal while it's accessible.
 

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Thanks for posting up my thread pcz. Laser, the reason that mine went out was because I slapped it to the floor decently hard, so try to avoid that. I'm also trying to put together a complete thread on the change, I will hopefully be doing it this coming weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK so I inspected my LCA bushings finally, here's what I saw on the passenger side (where the noise is)


So it looks like the rearward LCA bushing is shot... Question is should I replace both rearward bushings?
 

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Replace both lower control arms & enjoy new bushings & ball joints for another 80k. It's the only way to get the bushings from Volvo & the price is relatively reasonable. ($140 ea. at Tasca) You can buy aftermarket bushings but you'll still have to pull the arms to press the old off & new on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, there are 2 types of LCA's

14mm
21mm

I don't know which one will fit my car yet. I think I'll just go to the dealer and buy the OEM or call up Tasca and ask.
 

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They refer to different ball joint stud diameters. I believe it's actually 18mm (early) or 21mm (later). Last 6 digits of your VIN.

S40 CH -209290 V50 CH -214682 ball joint 18 mm

S40 CH 209291- V50 CH 214683- ball joint 21 mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I checked on iPD's site, the sizes according to them are 14~15mm and 18mm. According to iPD, I need the 18mm. The last 6 digits of my VIN are 26XXXX
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ordered the control arm from Tasca. Installed it about a week ago. Anyone have the torque figures for the bolts on the bushings and the ball joint? I went with 80 ft lb on the bushings because I don't want to crush them.

Just FYI for those that like to DIY:
There's a suspension travel sensor that requires some sort of screw insert on the new control arm. I ended up using a helicoil 5/16" from an auto parts store.

Still have a bit of vibrations even after having the tires balanced but the wobble from the steering wheel is gone.
 

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Time to amp it up. Make sure car is at ride height when tightening front bolts. On ramps, not jack stands....

Single bolt in front: 175nm (130ftlbs)
Two bolts in rear: 60nm (45ftlbs) + 90 Degrees.
Ball joint: 70nm (52ftlbs)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Something I noticed during my last oil change, I can move the CV shaft slightly. Like the U-joints have some play. Would that be enough to cause some shudder under braking and make the tires sound out-of-balance?

Thanks for the torque specs. Didn't know the ball joint was such a low torque. I'll have to get one of those 3/8" wrench adapters to torque it because I can't get a socket on top of that nut.

Sounds like I overtightened the rear bushing bolts...
 
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