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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm considering condemning the R motor that keeps leaking oil out the front PCV block vent. Possibly cracked, or hopelessly sludged.

The easiest upgrade block is the 2.4l from an 05-09 T5.

Do i use the R rods and crank?
Will our AWD M66 bolt right up to the T5 with no modifications?
Do i use the R flywheel and clutch?

There's a 05-09 2.4l T5 in the JY right now. What's the easiest way to yank the motor, taking into acct it's at a JY.
Pull the axles, downpipe, engine mounts, cut the hoses/wires/any small crap, then hoist it up through the top?
Or, just pull the axles and downpipe, unbolt the subframe and lower it down onto a cart with a hoist. Then, use the hoist to lift the front of the car, and drag the thing out?
What about the accessories, are any of them bolted to the chassis or subframe?
 

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The 05-09 T5 already uses R internals... The engine is literally identical aside from pistons and wall thickness (and they put blue injectors, not green, need to swap your fuel rail). You continue to use all R parts aside from the engine.

If the JY car is AT top. Unbolt transmission, flexplate, up you go. MT also top but need to pull axles and have a way to tilt the engine trans assembly to get it out.
 

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I'm considering condemning the R motor that keeps leaking oil out the front PCV block vent. Possibly cracked, or hopelessly sludged.

The easiest upgrade block is the 2.4l from an 05-09 T5.

Do i use the R rods and crank?
Will our AWD M66 bolt right up to the T5 with no modifications?
Do i use the R flywheel and clutch?

There's a 05-09 2.4l T5 in the JY right now. What's the easiest way to yank the motor, taking into acct it's at a JY.
Pull the axles, downpipe, engine mounts, cut the hoses/wires/any small crap, then hoist it up through the top?
Or, just pull the axles and downpipe, unbolt the subframe and lower it down onto a cart with a hoist. Then, use the hoist to lift the front of the car, and drag the thing out?
What about the accessories, are any of them bolted to the chassis or subframe?

you better go there today and get that thing out and buy It! btw where are you located ? :D
 

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You're gonna do an engine swap to deal with a crank case ventilation issue?! There's a hard, plastic vacuum line from the PCV oil trap to the intake manifold. Mine cracked and broke causing a hard to find oil leak. Maybe you have the same problem. Just replace/upgrade your PCV system, wasn't hard. Here's my catch can location and the reason every R should have one. Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Car Auto part Engine Automobile repair shop Automotive wheel system Automotive tire

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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You're gonna do an engine swap to deal with a crank case ventilation issue?! There's a hard, plastic vacuum line from the PCV oil trap to the intake manifold. Mine cracked and broke causing a hard to find oil leak. Maybe you have the same problem. Just replace/upgrade your PCV system, wasn't hard. Here's my catch can location and the reason every R should have one. Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

every never style volvo pcv system i do, even on the new piping i get rid of the new hard plastic one and replace it with a silicone one...always and never look back...****ttty design... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pretty sure my PCV is working fine. It's all new. This block is either sludged up so hard that liquid oil is constantly flowing through the flame trap, or the block is externally cracked when hot. Yes, i could try to drop the pan and "snake" the block or i could RTV or TIG wherever the crack is. Both may or may not fix it. I'm tired of pissing time and money into this problem. Time for the reset button!


It's an AT in Richmond, CA. Wanna join my madness?
What about all of the ancillary stuff, like AC, alt, PS, etc. Are any of these bolted to the chassis? Or can i just Sawzall them free on the way out?
Knowing its an AT, is it faster to just pull the trans out with the engine? I could see unbolting the bell housing at a JY as being a PITA


Also, with these 2.4l motors, what's the risk of pulling a bad block??? In the scenario of overheat or lack of lube, will the block be reasonably salvageable? I could always put my R head on and have the block decked, but what about the rest of the block?
 
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