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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems as theres a LOT of R engines suffering from the dreaded 'cracked cylinder liner' of late, I thought I'd ask around and see what the deal with mating a 2.3l block to the 2.5l R head would be.

I know some have done it but to summarise into one thread, If you were going down this path, what do you need to do, buy, look out for?
 

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This is a dougy question.
 

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I have 2.3l block with R head. Nothing more to add. Use R oilpan too with level sensor. Everything bolts on
 

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So, what about pulling the crank and pistons as well, making a 2.4L? Too much effort?
 

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I have 2.3l block with R head. Nothing more to add. Use R oilpan too with level sensor. Everything bolts on
this, just know ocean it is going to be a slugger off the line with a 2.3l crank / 139.5 mm rods.

So, what about pulling the crank and pistons as well, making a 2.4L? Too much effort?
you can use newer style crank that comes in all newer 5 cylinders and all R's but not pistons ... they are 83 mm vs 81 mm thus you would have to bore out 81 mm block to 83 mm and it would be no different/weak then your R block. 2.3l or 2005 2.4l has an extra 1 mm around thicker wall and that is the only thing that makes it stronger...but it is worth that 1 mm if you can do the job yourself. if you are paying for it ...you mine as well sleeve it.
 

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Also add shims since its so easy and proven to work
 

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I have been looking at building a motor "Dougy Style"... My local sources say the 2005+ T5 2.4L motor is the place to start, shim it or Darton it (violates the Dougy Style rule but if the budget allows go for it), some better rods and whatever else you want/can afford.

The key point being not all 2.4L where created equal. So when saying 2.3L or 2.4L what are the years that are better than others??
 

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So a 2005 2.4l block mated to the R head is the way to go?

Keeping darton sleeves out of the picture for the time being..

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

no, 2005 and up t5 comes with R head and k24 so no need to remove anything ..just sink it in...even without shims it will be just fine with a k24 at 20-22 psi. so just find 2005 and up t5 2.4l engine and make sure it is a t5 and lpt 2.4l
 

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StealthyS60R,
:beer:
 

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meeeeh... to both of you...i'll take my 2.3 shimmed for 1000$ built with h-rods and arp studs included over yours any-day, aaaand have a back up 2.3l short block :)...but pleeeease post your dynos when you start pushing them over 500 hp or what i'am pushing mine so we know what will fail next...:D


Engine HP

461 hp
471 torque

AWHP

401 AWHP
410 AW Torque


 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
no, 2005 and up t5 comes with R head and k24 so no need to remove anything ..just sink it in...even without shims it will be just fine with a k24 at 20-22 psi. so just find 2005 and up t5 2.4l engine and make sure it is a t5 and lpt 2.4l
hehe easier said than done for some. Remember only 70 R's came to Australia to give you an idea of how rare Volvo is here. Less than half are still on the road.
Whats the correct block code to look for?
 

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hehe easier said than done for some. Remember only 70 R's came to Australia to give you an idea of how rare Volvo is here. Less than half are still on the road.
Whats the correct block code to look for?
that i don't know ...i never do research ... i can tell you ...you can get any 2.3 t5 1999 and up and use that short block...that's actually what i did for my R ... I went to a local junk yard pulled it out of 2001 t5 wagon used my R head and whala ... only thing you will need to pay attention to is the tenssioner mod that I did and order a smaller 90 degree breather box to block fitting...thats it.

2.3l conversion link
 

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Quick is a relative term, most places that do the block work take months to do so. My project would have been done in half the time if not for the block related delays.
 

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And shims?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
shims don't compare to dartons and it is simply a reinforcement method ...a really nice preventative option to have if your sleeves are not yet cranked and you have the head off...just because you shove shims in there it does not mean it is bullet proof especially on a 2.5l 83mm bore...thats why i find it funny people shim 2.5l block, not properly either and brag how they boost 25 psi and make statement like i have 20k on it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The main reason for this is to provide information and advice for those who have a small crack in the cylinder head and want to fix the issue without having to find another engine.

Plus lets not forget, engine surgery is also an expensive route to take but possibly the cheaper option of available alternatives.

So its fair to say that the easiest option if you have a cracked cylinder head (make that a small crack) is to weld the crack, install some darton sleeves, new head gasket kit and bolts, and put it all back together.

Plus look at other engine performance options if your budget can afford it - seems as the engine is out.
 
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