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Twas not my intent to come across how I am sure I have here....but there’s not been much that I can agree on especially because 99 -00 T5s are literally my speciality and I’ve rebuilt 10 at last count, 4 of which are in my driveway/family. Really did learn the hard way. Any and all suggestions are made with fully the best interests and in the hope that someone, anyone, would be wise and learn from all the mistakes I made long before figuring it out. The short cuts exist and they have been laid out clear and concisely. A “formula” arises for how to build these cars that’s not a compromise it’s just the best reward for the effort involved on a sliding scale. You can do it cheap, right or fast. Pick one.
I agree completely. Nothing wrong with trying to help the new guys! The last part is very true for these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Yeah i understand. It wasnt my intent to come off how i know i have too lol. But yeah, I'd rather buy it nice than buy it twice.
 

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Twas not my intent to come across how I am sure I have here....but there’s not been much that I can agree on especially because 99 -00 T5s are literally my speciality and I’ve rebuilt 10 at last count, 4 of which are in my driveway/family. Really did learn the hard way. Any and all suggestions are made with fully the best interests and in the hope that someone, anyone, would be wise and learn from all the mistakes I made long before figuring it out. The short cuts exist and they have been laid out clear and concisely. A “formula” arises for how to build these cars that’s not a compromise it’s just the best reward for the effort involved on a sliding scale. You can do it cheap, right or fast. Pick one.
I’d agree with all but the last statement. You can have it cheap and fast, but won’t be right.
Right and fast but won’t be cheap!
Cheap and right but won’t be fast !

Life of a project manager

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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I’d agree with all but the last statement. You can have it cheap and fast, but won’t be right.
Right and fast but won’t be cheap!
Cheap and right but won’t be fast !

Life of a project manager

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Pick 2/3 ;)
 

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I’d agree with all but the last statement. You can have it cheap and fast, but won’t be right.
Right and fast but won’t be cheap!
Cheap and right but won’t be fast !

Life of a project manager

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I'd have to agree.

I took the approach of right and fast with my wagon and right(er) and fast(er) with my sedan.

Nothing cheap though.

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If you do it cheap and fast, it won't last.

Every 850 with a MBC says hi. ME7 isn't even as simple to trick into making it go fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Okay so taking a look at the Maximizer exhaust Scottishbrick linked (https://www.ebay.com/itm/233204336778) in the description it says one downpipe is 2.4 inches inner diameter, and the other one is 2.8 inches inner diameter. However, it looks like one is angle flanged and the other is straight flanged, but it doesnt specify which is which. Im fine if its 2.8 inches on the angle flange, since the outlet of my turbo is only 2.8 inches anyway. Anyone know if the straight flange turbos are 2.4 inches usually or something, or what?
 

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The straight flange DP is smaller, so that sounds about right.

That's why you need to mess with a red block if you want cheap. LH 2.4 is easy to mess with, and even more adaptable than M4.4 or ME7. You can slap green injectors on those things without any sort of tuning and it just learns. Probably not ideal, but it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Lol im not sure what a red block or LH 2.4 is. I wish they were labeled accordingly so people like me arent wondering....
 

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1-2 minutes of googling would answer both questions...
 

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Discussion Starter #152
lol this is the only review for that maximizer exhaust

"Horrible product through and through
Very Cheap quality Sounds VERY drones and annoying Every joint has exhaust leak V-band clamps are horrible, and flange faces don't even seem machined perfectly flat exhaust routing isn't perfect and hits one of the heat shields Please DO not Purchase, the worst purchase I've ever made, hoping to upgrade my exhaust. I would Pay just to have my stock exhaust on but its gone..."

I sent OBX an email asking if they sold a turbo back, cant find it on their website.

Found it on ebay however, https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-R-Stai...166346?hash=item1cd0dc0c8a:g:GFwAAOSwiFhc1cOG

Is that a solid price? Might just go with that...idk. Id rather not have an exhaust leak on every joint like that other guy said.
 

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I don't think I've ever seen the OBX exhaust on their website. It's only on eBay and some other sites. I haven't looked recently, but that price looks about right. You may even be able to find it cheaper.

Search on that... older RWD Volvos. Google is your friend!
 

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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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At that price with the OBX vs EST, you are getting a much worse cat-back system and thus effectively paying $270 for the downpipe(s). Message the seller and see if they might break it apart and sell you just a downpipe. Doubtful but worth asking. Did you try a wanted ad on here for just an OBX dp?
 

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At that price with the OBX vs EST, you are getting a much worse cat-back system and thus effectively paying $270 for the downpipe(s). Message the seller and see if they might break it apart and sell you just a downpipe. Doubtful but worth asking. Did you try a wanted ad on here for just an OBX dp?
those won't bolt together out of the box
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Thats what i was thinking. at this point im just ready to have one or the other, and its gonna be like 500$ either way. I can sell my stock cat for like 200$ ish
 

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I'd have to agree.

I took the approach of right and fast with my wagon and right(er) and fast(er) with my sedan.

Nothing cheap though.

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Not mine but apropos...






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