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Clicking? Like from the valve cover area? Sure its not lifter tick? Could have the lash out.
 

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If it's a higher pitched ticking, it might be the lifters. Rods make more of a "clunk", it's a deeper sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,124
If it's a higher pitched ticking, it might be the lifters. Rods make more of a "clunk", it's a deeper sound.
It is rods, dad confirmed 100%. Its like a slappy noise maybe hard to describe. not high pitched

I need to source a motor SB suggested one from a 2003-2004 S/V70 or if im lucky the T9 from a c70. Would it be possible to jump up to a 2.5L in this scenario just so there is some upside, add some displacement?
 

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I wouldn't recommend a 2.5 due to the large cylinder bore. The walls are thinner and they are prone to cracking. I recommend either a 2.3 (-'04 T5 as SB recommended) or a 2005-2009 2.4 T5 (B5244T5). The 4T5 is a great motor because you get the smaller 81mm bore like the 2.3s have, but a longer stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,126
I wouldn't recommend a 2.5 due to the large cylinder bore. The walls are thinner and they are prone to cracking. I recommend either a 2.3 (-'04 T5 as SB recommended) or a 2005-2009 2.4 T5 (B5244T5). The 4T5 is a great motor because you get the smaller 81mm bore like the 2.3s have, but a longer stroke. Plus forged rods are a nice additional safeguard compared to the older engines.
Hmm. Would that plug and play with my ECU?

Maybe the 5.3L v8 from an Impala SS :)
 

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You have no idea how much upside there is with a 03+ 2.3.

This will make sense when you tear your engine down when you're done with it.
 

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It's 99% plug and play. The only real difference with the 4T5 is that you'll have the intake VVT disconnected. IIRC, the T9 also has intake VVT, so that's basically the same deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,129
Found a 04 c70 motor on ebay for 620$ with free shipping, 140k miles. It also has the turbo still, so i could sell that for like 100$ back
 

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It's 99% plug and play. The only real difference with the 4T5 is that you'll have the intake VVT disconnected. IIRC, the T9 also has intake VVT, so that's basically the same deal.
No. T9 is exhaust vvt only.

For dual camshaft engines with cams not being actuated you need to actually delete and lock the cam or it will flop back and forth from full retard to full advance, not idea.
 

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No. T9 is exhaust vvt only.

For dual camshaft engines with cams not being actuated you need to actually delete and lock the cam or it will flop back and forth from full retard to full advance, not idea.
Don't know why I remembered the T9 having intake VVT. But yes, the hub will have to be locked somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,132 (Edited)
Drove home today on the c70 t9 motor. We would've been done last night but it was making a ticking noise in gear, my dad found out it as a bad power steering pump (stripped thread so it was rocking around under load) so we replaced it this morning from LKQ. Max boost i saw was like 16 pounds (in between shifts) and like 14-15 in gear. Dad drove behind me and he said it looked like i was running rich from the exhaust, which also turns black very fast. And, Will (ScottishBrick) took a look at my last log (from the original motor at 19 psi) and said it looked like my EGT's were high. Moderately disappointed from being able to notice that it was slower, but i guess i was expecting that from going down 4 psi and having a torque limiter.

118915
118914
 

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Did you do a timing belt, pcv, and all the seals while it was out?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,134
Did you do a timing belt, pcv, and all the seals while it was out?
Timing belt was fine, looked really new. If not i still have my other one which is new. Did the banjo bolt again, new intake/exhuast manifold gasket, thermostat housing gasket, cleaned the oil trap. Another thing to note about running rich is that i threw a catalytic converter code which hadn't happened again after installing the 200 cell cat.
 

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Nice!

I would have done the PCV and timing belt while it was all out, but those aren't too hard to do with everything in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,136
Nice!

I would have done the PCV and timing belt while it was all out, but those aren't too hard to do with everything in place.
Yeah, probably should've but we were trying to be able to have it back up and running so i could drive to work lol.

Still kinda bummed about the decrease in power. Right now its like 14ish psi across the board (haven't gotten into 4th gear yet, but id assume) Scottishbrick recommended me doing 10 psi in first gear, 15 psi in second, and 20 pounds in 3rd-4th. When I asked Hilton about this he said it wasnt possible to do boost by gear on an auto like you can on a manual. Anyone have any recommendations/ideas? The brick also recommended me to swap to a 2000 ECU for better boost control. Would that help with boost by gear?
 

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well your 99 ECU isn't really up to the task in the first place sooooo
 

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So swapping to a 2000 ECU would only entail reprogramming, which Hilton should be able to handle. Or you could always swap the cluster and key as well, I guess.
 

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Would the 2000 ecu enable boost by gear control?
No idea about the technical differences, Will or Jared would know the answer to that. I just know that the software is supposed to be a bit faster to respond than the ‘99 ECU.
 
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