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19t will be all of 3 banjo bolts 2 hose clamps 3 downpipe nuts 4 turbo nuts and 2x t25 screws on the oil return line. Hour to get it out the first time you do it.

K24 will be a thousand bucks more minimum and probably a full day to bolt in due to everything else required just for physically mounting/plumbing/oiling/cooling the new frame.

Remember this?

"as of now, i have a cold air intake, boost controller, and a boost gage. i care about going fast in a straight line, and dont wanna spend a fortune"

Throw that boost controller in the trash if its anything other than a stock or R pierberg unit. This is how you blow the motor up.

Seriously dude everyone heres really genuinely trying to help and figuratively holding your hand through how to do this fast, easy, cheap and right because we've all done it too many times the wrong way ourselves and wish someone would listen to the extremely valuable advice you're getting for free.
No doubt. If only I could have benefited from hind site. “I wish that I knew then what I know now, when I was younger...”

In ten years of ownership I have gone from the stock 16t to an 18t to a k24 to an iPd 4t4, and finally now to a Garrett 3071r. If I had it to do all over again I would have kept the 18t until I was ready to go all in with built motor and large frame turbo and skipped the k24 and 4t4. I *still* had a higher fun quotient with the 18t than with anything else until I moved up to the Garrett. The k24 felt similar to the 18t, and the iPd 4t4 only marginally better, certainly not worth the cost in retrospect. Some of my experience had to do with tunes and hardware, so it’s not quite that simple, but the 18t/ 19t makes for a very fun and streetable turbo.
 

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No doubt. If only I could have benefited from hind site. “I wish that I knew then what I know now, when I was younger...”

In ten years of ownership I have gone from the stock 16t to an 18t to a k24 to an iPd 4t4, and finally now to a Garrett 3071r. If I had it to do all over again I would have kept the 18t until I was ready to go all in with built motor and large frame turbo and skipped the k24 and 4t4. I *still* had a higher fun quotient with the 18t than with anything else until I moved up to the Garrett. The k24 felt similar to the 18t, and the iPd 4t4 only marginally better, certainly not worth the cost in retrospect. Some of my experience had to do with tunes and hardware, so it’s not quite that simple, but the 18t/ 19t makes for a very fun and streetable turbo.
^

I have a 19T with all the supporting mods in my 850R.......really don't feel like I need to be going faster than that in a street car. Cheap, easy, and effective. I wouldn't use anything other than a TD04 on a P80.
 

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Been driving about 2 months now on my upgrade to an 18t i got from Will...which i would consider myself lucky to receive from someone who knows and understands the limits of these cars from first hand experience...the combination of all those mods you see in my sig...were finally realized with that 18t absolutely wants to tear the front end off that wagon ALL DAY... i rarely have to use all of that tune that StevO installed 3rd gear is holy ****....and believe me i've street raced and messed with other car guys for over 40yrs...if you go any further with this ..it will always be one thing or another and your fun time running around on the streets enjoying your ride will be greatly reduced...for a T5A this is what you want...
 

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Just realizing I responded to your thread over on VS. Basically summed up everything SB said in response to your initial question.

After driving a modified (with a stock K24 aside from a Forge CBV) S60R, I don't think it's worth moving beyond a 19t in these cars unless you're going to something REALLY big. As in something that requires custom work.... Borg Warner EFR, Garret, etc. But you're going to need to build the engine for that, no way these stock rods are gonna hold up to that.
Anyway, the S60R honestly feels damn near the same as my 19t V70R. Maybe a LITTLE quicker, but that could just be in my head since it makes cooler noises. Also has much less wheel spin with the AWD. Granted, the tune on that car is crap, so keep that in mind. My tune is well sorted and doesn't have the same strange idle issues. Once I do some other work to my car though, I'm certain it will be quicker than the K24 car.

That said, a hybrid K24 is an option too. But if you're looking for cheap, I wouldn't suggest that route. That's the only way a K24 will significantly outperform a 19t.
 

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Did the 20T fall out of favor with the community? In my head it was always 20T vs K24 for biggest OEM style turbo you'd want to put on a stock bottom end.

OP, not sure if it would end up saving you money or time really, but another option is you could convert your existing 16T to a bigger turbo by getting a 19T or 20T cover and machining your CHRA to make the bigger wheel fit. I'm pretty sure some shops can do the machining for you at the same time as the rebuild/ balance.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I greatly appreciate the help everyone, my biggest problem was being able to source a 19t or an 18t, couldnt find one anywhere (other than scottishbrick's listing which got bought immediately) and I would've bought that if i couldve. I was nervous though, as im sure scottishbrick remembers. Im not going to be running crazy boost or anything, probably 19psi at the max and thats if it spikes. I don't want to bend any rods or blow up my transmission, i guess maybe im impatient or something but i just could NOT find a 19t. Looked for weeks. I appreciate everyone being so nice and helping me as im very very new (i know its obvious) and want to learn more. Ill probably do the fuel pump too, only 100$ and id rather spend 100$ up front and save a headache later if i ran too lean. What even is the "Water tree"? I asked my dad and he said he wasnt sure, so could i get some clarification there? Thanks again everyone i really thank you all
 

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Rebuilding TD04s is not cost effective
OP, not sure if it would end up saving you money or time really, but another option is you could convert your existing 16T to a bigger turbo by getting a 19T or 20T cover and machining your CHRA to make the bigger wheel fit. I'm pretty sure some shops can do the machining for you at the same time as the rebuild/ balance.
 

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What even is the "Water tree"? I asked my dad and he said he wasnt sure, so could i get some clarification there? Thanks again everyone i really thank you all
Water tree is the pipe from the water pump that branches out to everywhere
 

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Did the 20T fall out of favor with the community? In my head it was always 20T vs K24 for biggest OEM style turbo you'd want to put on a stock bottom end.

OP, not sure if it would end up saving you money or time really, but another option is you could convert your existing 16T to a bigger turbo by getting a 19T or 20T cover and machining your CHRA to make the bigger wheel fit. I'm pretty sure some shops can do the machining for you at the same time as the rebuild/ balance.
Yea. They grenade. The 20t wheel is too big for the HL frame (yea yea dodge used it for 2 years) and had a harmonic that blows the bearings. Hot side is a tad choked for that kind of flow too. Although so is a k24 if you actually take one apart and look at it....
 

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I greatly appreciate the help everyone, my biggest problem was being able to source a 19t or an 18t, couldnt find one anywhere (other than scottishbrick's listing which got bought immediately) and I would've bought that if i couldve. I was nervous though, as im sure scottishbrick remembers. Im not going to be running crazy boost or anything, probably 19psi at the max and thats if it spikes. I don't want to bend any rods or blow up my transmission, i guess maybe im impatient or something but i just could NOT find a 19t. Looked for weeks. I appreciate everyone being so nice and helping me as im very very new (i know its obvious) and want to learn more. Ill probably do the fuel pump too, only 100$ and id rather spend 100$ up front and save a headache later if i ran too lean. What even is the "Water tree"? I asked my dad and he said he wasnt sure, so could i get some clarification there? Thanks again everyone i really thank you all
I’m almost literally banging on doors looking for OEM 18-19ts hold ya horses they exist just have to check under every rock
 

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Rebuilding TD04s is not cost effective
Can you elaborate? Converting the existing 16T to a 19T seems like it would be a decent prospect especially if OP is having a hard time finding a used turbo.

A Kinugawa 19T compressor housing is 150 bucks: http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbocompressorhousingvolvos70850td04td04hl19t-2.aspx

A Kinugawa 19T compressor wheel is 55 bucks: http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbocompressorwheeltd04htd04hl-18tvolvos70v70c70t5r18t-2.aspx

Send the 16T turbo to a shop to get the CHRA machined and the turbo rebuilt and balanced with the new 19T wheel, add the new 19T cover when you put it back together and bada bing, you've got yourself a brand new 19T.

You can just buy a brand new Kinugawa 19T, but that includes the part I wouldn't necessarily trust from Kinugawa, the CHRA. By converting the OEM 16T to a 19T as I described, you still keep the CHRA OEM.
 

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Can you elaborate? Converting the existing 16T to a 19T seems like it would be a decent prospect especially if OP is having a hard time finding a used turbo.

A Kinugawa 19T compressor housing is 150 bucks: http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbocompressorhousingvolvos70850td04td04hl19t-2.aspx

A Kinugawa 19T compressor wheel is 55 bucks: http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/turbocompressorwheeltd04htd04hl-18tvolvos70v70c70t5r18t-2.aspx

Send the 16T turbo to a shop to get the CHRA machined and the turbo rebuilt and balanced with the new 19T wheel, add the new 19T cover when you put it back together and bada bing, you've got yourself a brand new 19T.

You can just buy a brand new Kinugawa 19T, but that includes the part I wouldn't necessarily trust from Kinugawa, the CHRA. By converting the OEM 16T to a 19T as I described, you still keep the CHRA OEM.
Machining is $.

New VSR balanced cores are cost effective.

Rebalance is $350, new core is less.
 

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So what about getting a vsr balanced core and then getting a 19t compressor wheel.

Would that work?

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Why not just a VSR balanced 19t? You can’t take apart a VSR balanced turbo and still call it balanced. Also 19t are 58mm base diameter and everything else is 56mm so it’s not a bolt on deal.

Problem we run into is that 19t use a specified wastegate actuator with heavier spring rate than the 16/18.

Can get ebay cover. Core. Source athe best exhaust housing. But can’t regulate it properly.
 

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So what about getting a vsr balanced core and then getting a 19t compressor wheel.

Would that work?
Taking it apart defeats the point of balancing it? Or am I missing something here
 

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Why not just a VSR balanced 19t? You can’t take apart a VSR balanced turbo and still call it balanced. Also 19t are 58mm base diameter and everything else is 56mm so it’s not a bolt on deal.

Problem we run into is that 19t use a specified wastegate actuator with heavier spring rate than the 16/18.

Can get ebay cover. Core. Source athe best exhaust housing. But can’t regulate it properly.
Makes sense. I had a brain fart related to what was balanced. Haven't taken too many of these turbos apart.

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New CHRAs are too cheap to bother rebuilding and balancing. Get a 19t CHRA and buy that Kinugawa housing and you're done. Well, the 19t WGA would be good to have too, but that's the only 19t specific part that's not readily available.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I already purchased a k24 a few days ago, had to make a decision eventually. Im getting the water tree used, not gonna break the bank, getting the MAF housing new for 22$ and putting the currentone i have in, not that expensive, injectors used, turbo used, and if it needs to be rebalanced for shaft play, gpop shop does that for 350, so id still be in that 500$ ish price range of the 19t you were selling, the most expensive part of this ordeal for me by far is the tune. Im gonna get my own braided oil lines, found a kit for not too bad.
 

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I already purchased a k24 a few days ago, had to make a decision eventually. Im getting the water tree used, not gonna break the bank, getting the MAF housing new for 22$ and putting the currentone i have in, not that expensive, injectors used, turbo used, and if it needs to be rebalanced for shaft play, gpop shop does that for 350, so id still be in that 500$ ish price range of the 19t you were selling, the most expensive part of this ordeal for me by far is the tune. Im gonna get my own braided oil lines, found a kit for not too bad.
I have a K24 water tree in stock if you're going to go this route.
 
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