SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

261 - 280 of 1112 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,535 Posts
I can't hang the turbo without the the cooling and oil stuff
Na you most certainly can bolt it in without the plumbing. And should too, thats the proper install procedure. Got a lot of disassembly to do to get there anyway. Aint a weekend project thats for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter #263 (Edited)
Na you most certainly can bolt it in without the plumbing. And should too, thats the proper install procedure. Got a lot of disassembly to do to get there anyway. Aint a weekend project thats for sure.
O okay, idk I already have everything ready, i might just wait at this point. currently in the mail, ive got the MAF housing + sensor, real injectors, and the exhaust. Im waiting to hear back from someone about a oil return line. Also my flowmasters arrived today, ill post pics of the welds


how do you guys post pictures in here where it can be seen without clicking anything?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
With the new site format, you can upload directly to the post with the image icon along the bottom of the text box. Otherwise, you can use an image hosting site like Imgur.
I'll let you know about that drain pipe ASAP, my cousin should have it still.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
Discussion Starter #265
With the new site format, you can upload directly to the post with the image icon along the bottom of the text box. Otherwise, you can use an image hosting site like Imgur.
I'll let you know about that drain pipe ASAP, my cousin should have it still.
Oh okay cool. Forgot it was you from facebook lol. What kind of gaskets to i need, or can i reuse the ones from my current turbo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Oh okay cool. Forgot it was you from facebook lol. What kind of gaskets to i need, or can i reuse the ones from my current turbo
You'll need the oil feed gasket, the oil return gasket and o-ring, and new crush washer for the two banjo bolts for the coolant lines. You're also going to want to get the gasket that goes between the exhaust manifold and the turbine housing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
Oh okay cool. Forgot it was you from facebook lol. What kind of gaskets to i need, or can i reuse the ones from my current turbo
Huh???? Short answer.....no. Enter the game.....
Do you want to be able to push it when you’re done or have a show car? I laugh at guys that try to pull on me and we get to the light and their **** is smoking. I can run my car HAF all damn day and have zero issue because I cut corners nowhere. You do understand the extra load you’re gonna be putting on these parts in the end right? Button it up tight and don’t be in a rush. Trying to help....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,535 Posts
I’ve never found gaskets on 99s anyway besides head to manifold. They came later.

I’ll post this again, edited for k24:


Manifold to Head Single Piece Gasket (requires trimming)

8699467

Manifold to Turbo Gasket

8642450

Turbo to DP Gasket (angle)

8642449
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
I’ve never found gaskets on 99s anyway besides head to manifold. They came later.

I’ll post this again, edited for k24:


Manifold to Head Single Piece Gasket (requires trimming)

8699467

Manifold to Turbo Gasket

8642450

Turbo to DP Gasket (angle)

8642449
Or......RTV BLACK or COPPER for all of they above.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,535 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
Please dear god no
Ehhhhh. I’ve used the manufacturers OEM blah, blah, and the best and longest seal I’ve gotten is with RvT. Manifolds, exhaust flanges etc. imperfect planes benefit from RvT. In a perfect OEM world maybe, but then why are you having leaks etc. Because plastics and metals are not 100% true.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,535 Posts
Ehhhhh. I’ve used the manufacturers OEM blah, blah, and the best and longest seal I’ve gotten is with RvT. Manifolds, exhaust flanges etc. imperfect planes benefit from RvT. In a perfect OEM world maybe, but then why are you having leaks etc. Because plastics and metals are not 100% true.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
They’re all machined flanges? And should be checked for trueness during disassembly. Let me get this strait, you’re advocating using RTV on an exhaust manifold that gets upwards of 900 degrees? High temp or not that’s way outside the applications it’s meant for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
They’re all machined flanges? And should be checked for trueness during disassembly. Let me get this strait, you’re advocating using RTV on an exhaust manifold that gets upwards of 900 degrees? High temp or not that’s way outside the applications it’s meant for.
Right. Machined as in machined correctly then you should be good with a thin layer of RtV. That’s what I was saying.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,926 Posts
If it's machined correctly you shouldn't need RTV. The only time I've ever used RTV on these cars was when I put my M66 back together after installing the Quaife........because that's what was called for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
If it's machined correctly you shouldn't need RTV. The only time I've ever used RTV on these cars was when I put my M66 back together after installing the Quaife........because that's what was called for.
Awesome. I’ll keep using it where it works. I’ve torched three turbo to downpipe gaskets and as soon as I went with RvT no more exhaust leaks.

Held up on the headers and exhaust on our 1800whp 1/8 [email protected] 5.24 seconds drag car and I’ll bet it will hold up on the 2500whp build that we’re working now. Even with the twin 85mm Garrett’s EGTs. Only time will tell.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Wait... you're talking about not cutting corners, but suggesting the use of RTV in place of steel gaskets? 🤔

RTV has its place, but I wouldn't use it on exhaust. I will admit, I've used the copper stuff on the turbo to downpipe surface on an S60 and it worked well. Otherwise, I wouldn't use it unless you're in a pinch. Either way, I don't run downpipe gaskets on my 2000 R. Didn't have one when I first took it apart, so I never put one on. The S60 probably would have been fine without it too.
I didn't realize the earlier cars didn't have a manifold to turbo gasket, but it makes sense. I know the DP gaskets weren't always there.

Definitely get the one piece RNC exhaust manifold gasket. Easy to trim and MUCH easier to install, especially if a few studs back out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
To clarify: I’m not talking about using RtV to make gaskets everywhere. Low pressure areas and non solvent areas, no oil or fuel. I use it on the exhaust components and areas where pre-made gaskets have failed for whatever reason. The whole exhaust is v-banded except the downpipe flange. And yes you are correct, if the mating surfaces are true then a standard gasket will work but if there is unevenness to the surface the proper use of RtV works great if not better because it will fill in those areas. My circumstances are more on the unique side of things than most I would also guess.

But we should get back to our regularly scheduled program. Or the OP won’t get his many many questions answered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
840 Posts
I’m still hung up on using silicone based adhesives on temperatures over 245C.
It’s good to 230C continuous temp and 245C intermittent.

The material itself will disintegrate. It starts to ‘flow’ and eventually vanishes.

If you’re thinking of exhaust gasket type glue, there are materials available but it’s not RTV.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
Right. Machined as in machined correctly then you should be good with a thin layer of RtV. That’s what I was saying.
No. Just No.
If both surfaces have been checked to be true and are in alignment (parallel) aka not 'cutting any corners', why in the hell would you need to use a liquid gasket maker to fill any voids? I'm not even going to get into temperature ranges of silicone as others have taken care of that.

OP your dad is a mechanic, just listen to him. If you need to seal exhaust mating surfaces, use gaskets and/or muffler cement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,434 Posts
This subject has been covered numerous times throughout probably this and other forums. Even pro race shops use RtV even at the headers as the head will pull heat into the collectors. It works, if done correctly. If you don’t know how to use it or where to use it, that is not a fault of the RtV but rather one of user error. And the Copper RtV is rated intermittent 700DegF. There are also other heat ranges available. If your EGTs are that high for that long you are either pushing the envelope on a pretty good build or there is another issue with fueling, cylinder compression for the build, or type of fuel for giving AFRs Throughout the rev range. Again. Experience vs guessing. It does make a difference sometimes. To each is his own. Somebody should start an entirely new thread on the subject, with documentation and real world uses of the various types of high heat silicones etc. For every case of someone using RtV that had issues I will provide no less than 3 cases where someone (using it correctly, including top notch mechanics and engine builders) have had ZERO issues. However, being pragmatic about it isn’t always doable for everyone.

Hope this helps.
 
261 - 280 of 1112 Posts
Top