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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a 1999 s70 t5, trying to do the following: Green giant injectors, s60r exhaust manifold, k24 turbo and get it remanufactured by gpop shop



My quesiton is, will i have fitment issues with the k24? My dad said the K24 if its a V-band flange wont fit my car's charge pipe, so what should i do? Would a non-v band flange be a direct bolt on? Thanks.*

If i can only source a k24 with the v-band flange, will this fitting adapt it to fit my current charge pipe? https://re-volvparts.com/store/home/53-snabb-k24-v-band-flange-adapter.html
 

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Need a different maf, water pipe, intake tube, fuel pump, all the intercooler piping. You can make it work but it’s hardly bolt on.

And get a Japanifold the 2.5t manifold is not the upgrade you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, whats the difference between the japanifold and the s60r manifold? Would it be smarter to get an 18t? Was on the phone with a guy at IPD, and he said the 19t is inefficient at high boost. And im after more of a torquey feel, not high end power. Would I be better suited with an 18t, 19t, or k24?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Would the 18t be more of a direct bolt on, with still a power increase? Im really after some performance, mainly torque. Thanks for all the help
 

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Would the 18t be more of a direct bolt on, with still a power increase? Im really after some performance, mainly torque. Thanks for all the help
Well yes. Replacing same frame turbo with another as opposed to switching literally everything.

You’re not going to be able to push the 99 motor too hard, there’s some major design issues as built. Still stronger than the ones before it but.

Since 18 are hardest to find, 19 semi more available either would be a better choice than a k24. With the biggest hot side housing you won’t be choked unless you try and run 20+ psi of boost which the car won’t take anyway. Target would be 15 psi on the 19 with about 500 cfm flow and the fuel ect to match.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very dissapointing to hear the 18t :( does gpopshop sell their own remans? Or do they only remanufacture a turbo you provide? Im already running about 14 psi on my 16t right now. Id love the 18t or k24 for more torque, rather than the turbo lag of a 19t. When you say all new intercooler tubes, do you mean ALL of them, or just the one that directly connects to the turbo? And why the water and fuel pump (im getting the injectors)
 

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Theres no lag with a 19t. Thats tuning and keeps the rods in the block. When a 19t is on a poorly tuned p80 they can make 25 psi by 2500 rpm...and bend all 5 rods. Was along for that ride and it was very quick until it wasnt.

You need all the charge piping to make a k24 plumb up air wise. Water tree needs to be changed to fit the k24 compressor and coolant lines. Oil supply line needs to be tweaked to clear the oil squirter windows on the back of the 99 block.

You'll need a fuel pump upgrade (Dw200 or 300c recommended) because the stock pump is only really good for stock ish airflow. Immediately starts to lean out when pushed at all. This is my and many others experience. Doesnt matter if its a 60k car or a 305k car. Stock pump is good for stock power especially on 99-03s. If you watch the injection time as the power gets turned up it goes way up and out of safety.

18t is 485 cmf at 15 psi. k24 is 485 cfm at 15 psi. 19t is 500 cfm at 15 psi (2.0 PR which is atmosphere plus one atmosphere of boost).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Okay cool. Would i be able to buy the fuel pump on ebay as a general 'Dw200' or does it have to be volvo specific i guess? i found a k24 on ebay for 400$, and if it has no shaft play, would you still suggest me getting GPOP-shop to remanufacture it for 350?
 

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Okay cool. Would i be able to buy the fuel pump on ebay as a general 'Dw200' or does it have to be volvo specific i guess? i found a k24 on ebay for 400$, and if it has no shaft play, would you still suggest me getting GPOP-shop to remanufacture it for 350?
Sheesh thats expensive for a used k24. Still need all the oil and water lines plus changing the water tree and the associated gaskets/clamps ect too dont forget that cost.

Id buy the fuel pump from an authorized retailer, you really dont want to get a knockoff.

Id still highly recommend staying with a TD04 frame turbo for all of the reasons we've already gone over.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just cant source one. I would also like to make it easier, but I cant find one at all :(

How much do used k24s go for? and how much for used 18t/19t? I have no experience in here so i thought 400$ was a great deal.
 

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I just cant source one. I would also like to make it easier, but I cant find one at all :(

How much do used k24s go for? and how much for used 18t/19t? I have no experience in here so i thought 400$ was a great deal.
Like 300 for a good later k24, 400 with all lines.

18s are 99 R only and command a premium even used, 250-350. 19t used 350-400 and more rebuilt/new ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ah okay. I called G-pop shop, and their guys said it was no contest between a k24 and a 19t, that the k24 heavily out performs the 19t. I think i found my source also. I can get the turbo used for about 220, and possibly send it to them to rebuild it..not sure yet. Kinda tempted to put it on and see if i can save myself 800$
 

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Well, time to get shopping for all the supporting bits then.

31325709 PCV Banjo Bolt.
Water tree.
Oil supply and return.
Water supply and return hard lines.
Water supply and return hoses and oetiker clamps.
Intake tube for K24
3.25” maf
Alternate version oil cooler hose & clamp.
Charge piping.
Fuel pump of choice.
Green injectors.
Japanifold.

Suggested but not necessary

Intercooler
3” Downpipe, cat back
2001+ B5234T3 or 2003+ B5234T9
 

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I'm not sure your thinking this out all the way. A k24 plus rebuild is easily going to he in the 600 range. A rebuild alone will. Be around 350 without the core along with all of that additional supporting mods.

Also, since your asking quite a few questions, it's indicating you don't have a whole lot of knowledge of the platform.

A k24 swap is not a basic swap. There are quite a few things you need to replace.

I'd recommend following scottishbricks advice and sticking with a 18/19t.

You'll still need some the same supporting mods (960 maf, dw200 or 300). But the install is much simpler.

You should also be able to pickup a rebuilt 19t for around 450 to 500, which would be less expensive than the k24.

Your call, I don't think the k24 is worth it.

If you look at quite a few of the recent build threads, everyone is sticking with td04 frame turbos.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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^
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What exactly is the water tree? I have a k24 sourced for 200$, assuming its in good shape i get it rebuilt for 350$ from gpop shop, totaling about the same as a 19t and this will be new condition. Currently speaking with a guy on instagram who k24 swapped his 850, he put his sensor in a bigger MAF housing. He demonstrates how to install everything and which lines you have to replace, and he included the water pump. Found the pump for about 100$, so assuming everything goes according to plan ill be maybe 500-600 if the turbo doesnt need to be remanufactured, 1000ish if it does. working on sourcing the charge pipe

Heres the video if anyones curious https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxABUdVPUMM&feature=youtu.be&ab_channel=OmarPlat
 

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The difference between a 19t and a k24 is negligible in regard to how the car will feel. It will be easier (less complicated) to swap than a k24. You’re making this harder than it needs to be. Run the 19t with a dw200, then when and if you’re ready for an upgraded turbo go ahead and replace the connecting rods and possibly the pistons themselves and jump up out of the td04/ k24 range and into something that moves more air. People with more experience than you are trying to nudge you toward the optimal approach- a lot of collective experience here... lean on that! Best of luck and have fun!!
 

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19t will be all of 3 banjo bolts 2 hose clamps 3 downpipe nuts 4 turbo nuts and 2x t25 screws on the oil return line. Hour to get it out the first time you do it.

K24 will be a thousand bucks more minimum and probably a full day to bolt in due to everything else required just for physically mounting/plumbing/oiling/cooling the new frame.

Remember this?

"as of now, i have a cold air intake, boost controller, and a boost gage. i care about going fast in a straight line, and dont wanna spend a fortune"

Throw that boost controller in the trash if its anything other than a stock or R pierberg unit. This is how you blow the motor up.

Seriously dude everyone heres really genuinely trying to help and figuratively holding your hand through how to do this fast, easy, cheap and right because we've all done it too many times the wrong way ourselves and wish someone would listen to the extremely valuable advice you're getting for free.
 
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