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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I need to swap out a dead motor mount, I'm thinking it would be a good time to change the timing/accessory belts and water pump.<p>Perusal of IPD shows that the belt/pulley kit is easy to get, and the water pump isn't a problem. Yay.<p>The tool to hold everything in place is a bit of a red herring since it says that it is not for 1999's. A call to th etechs at IPD reveals that due to hydraulics the tool may not hold everything right (I may have this wrong, paraphrasing). According to th etech, the tool can be used, but everything should be marked for TDC just in case it slips. <p>I have done timing belts on hondas before, and never had a lockup tool, always marking aeverythign so it can be put back in place. <p>For folks who have done this, is the tool worthwhile for a 1999? I like the extra insurance, but don't like pissing away cash.<p>Also, IPD has all th eparts to do what I want to except the coolant pump... am I missing something? I can find the pump elsewhere, and will if I have to, but it would be nice to get everythign sourced at once. I hate paying for shipping (and cross-border duties) twice.<p>Finally, every car I have done this on has been with the engine in the well, but tilted for access. Is this do-able on the Volvo, or is space too tight? Apart from pulling the fender-guard is there major surgery to get at the belt and cover?
 

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Re: 1999 gear locker thing for timing belt (Prospector)

I have a 1999 and used the tool to lock the cam gears. It seemed to work well. I ended up moving the crank by accident though and fudged it all up. Then I couldn't locate the TDC markings on the crank and ended up taking it to a dealer with my tail between my legs.<p>I only had to pull the fender guard to get at the timing belt. I was unable to remove the crank pulley though. I admit I got in over my head.
 

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Re: 1999 gear locker thing for timing belt (Luke797)

Thanks Luke.<p>When doing this (on hondas), first step for me has been to clean everything really well, and then marke the pulleys/gears (where applicable) and block with a paint marker before removing the belt. <p>Do you feel that more is required here? That little yellow dot has saved my butt before. Plus, waiting for the paint to dry gives you time to get a drink!<br>
 

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That would have saved me $400 if I thought of doing the paint mark before hand. I hate learning the hard way. Our engines are interference engines so misalighning the crank or cams can quickly result is broken valves.<p>From my Haynes manual on timing belt replacement, it says the crank pulley must be removed and should be held from turning with a "home made tool". I was unable to fabricate something to hold a pulley with all the force I was applying - hence me turning the crank.<p>Maybe others here were able to do this without removing the crank pulley? The area near the bottom of the timing belt is pretty tight. This was my only problem area.
 

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btw i had this done at the dealer - not through them though (knew the tech)... he used some locker he said was for an S40
 

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while looking for a crank pulley removal tool for my sons lhs i saw a adjustable cam locking tool, for less than ipd's, plus you can use it on all DOHC engines.
 

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Re: (mune237)

Not sure about a 99, but I have done 3 timing belts on my 2000 C70 (305,000) and one on my wife's 2003 XC with no issues. Just watch your timing marks and everything goes smoothly. I would suggest replacing your water pump and tensioner at the same time as the belt is done. Though not needed on these engines, years ago the trick to keep the cam from turning on an ohc engine was to remove a cam bearing cap and install a thin piece of cardboard or poster board and tighten the cap.
 
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