[JaredR]

Great point. While all screw clamps are reusable, the pinch clamps are not.

and you really want to reuse the screw clamps because the Volvo ones are really good.

 

[gr1m_reaper]

so i got everything put back together, refilled all the fluids, and cranked the engine. needless to say, it does NOT run properly... it sputters and dies. what a let-down! no clue what it could be. i did not do anything major that would result in this situation (i don't think so anyways!).

it sounds as if the timing is off or it's misfiring, although i did not mess with the timing/serp belts (in the process of returning the contitechs and reordering). i suppose i will start with double-checking the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, vacuum lines, etc.

here is a list of everything i did under the hood - any thoughts on where i could have gone wrong?? i hope i didn't mess anything up earlier when i was trying to remove the ecu box that i did not need to remove in the end... ugh.

1) removed battery
2) removed air box assembly
3) removed spark plugs/wires/distributor cap
4) drained oil/coolant
5) removed coolant reservoir
6) attempted to remove ecu box (thinking i would need to in order to have better access to timing/serp belts, but ultimately gave up after finding out i did not need to remove it)
7) removed manifold
8) replaced PCV
9) pulled/rebuilt fuel injectors
10) re-installed fuel injectors
11) re-installed manifold
12) installed new spark plugs/wires/distributor cap/rotor
13) replaced upper/lower radiator hoses
14) replaced thermostat
15) installed coolant reservoir w/new hoses
16) broke nipple on boost pressure valve
17) replaced boost pressure valve
18) tcv silicone hoses
19) re-installed air filter assembly
20) replaced air filter
21) replaced oil filter
22) filled with 10w-30 oil
23) filled with 50/50 volvo coolant
24) re-installed battery

 

[UT OLI]

Do you have Check Engine light on ? Did you buy VIDA/DICE diagnostic software and reader ?

 

[gr1m_reaper]

when i started the car, it did not run for very long. am i able to still check the codes with the engine not running ? i do not have vida/dice - what's the best place to find it ?

 

[UT OLI]

If you have a code reader, you can read the codes with the key in position 2. I just realized you have a 98'. Vida only works on 99 and newer

 

[gr1m_reaper]

as far as i know - these are the things that can cause a rough idle... hopefully a scanner will throw a code to pinpoint the issue(s). do i just get a universal OBDII scanner or VOL-FCR? in the meantime, i guess i'll just work my way down the list:

1) Fuel Injectors
2) Spark plugs
3) Spark plug wires
4) Ignition coil
5) Distributor
6) Air filter
7) PCV valve
8) EGR valve
9) Oxygen sensor
10) Vacuum Lines
11) Head gasket leak
12) Fuel pump failure
13) Mass Air Flow sensor
14) Engine Coolant Temperature sensor
15) Idle Air Control valve

 

[88domer]

do i just get a universal OBDII scanner or VOL-FCR?

For generic codes, you might be able to get by with something as simple as a Motorup America OBD2 OBD II Scanner (currently $22.95 on Amazon), but I don’t know how much that will really help you. I have a BSR PPC3 that works pretty well on my ‘98 S70. You can probably find those at a decent price on auction/marketplace sites, since they’ve been around a while.

There are a few other recommendations on MVS: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34190

BD

 

[JaredR]

I'd get a OBD reader that'll connect to your phone and the the 850 OBD app

 

[gr1m_reaper]

Ordered an OBDII. In the meantime, i started checking a few things. I unplugged the MAF and started it up. It started right up, wasnt a rough idle but instead was revving up at super high rpms. Think the MAF may be the culprit?? It was working fine before, so i don't understand what could happened..

 

[98v70t5man]

Blake, move the maf sensor harness ever so slightly when someone starts the motor and observe the behavior. Could be a separated wire. That connector gets a lot of abuse. Start by cleaning the fine electrical plate in the maf though with iso alcohol and qtips. I’d look at the integrity of the injector harness after that if still debugging.

Ordered an OBDII. In the meantime, i started checking a few things. I unplugged the MAF and started it up. It started right up, wasnt a rough idle but instead was revving up at super high rpms. Think the MAF may be the culprit?? It was working fine before, so i don't understand what could happened..

 

[gr1m_reaper]

plugged the code reader in and..... no codes. i guess that's good? was almost hoping there would be a code, just so i would know for sure what to fix. but it sounds like it's narrowed down to the MAF in some way - sensor, plug, harness, etc.

i inspected the harness and it appears to be in good shape. the boot is still intact so i wouldn't think the wires are bad. i don't really want to cause another problem by messing with the harness unless i really need to do so. i'll take pictures this weekend, maybe someone can spot something i don't see.

can anyone explain the high revving? it's almost like the throttle is stuck. is it a result of the MAF situation or a separate issue? the only thing i did with the throttle was remove the cable to move the manifold out of the way to do the pcv.

will pick up some iso alcohol this evening in case i need to clean the MAF sensor. kind of ironic actually - i held off on installing the K&N intake because people say it could mess up the MAF. and yet here we are having issues with the MAF anyway...

 

[gr1m_reaper]

Lemme just make sure i understand properly with two questions:

1) If the engine has a rough idle with the MAF connected but doesnt have the rough idle with the MAF disconnected, does this automatically mean the idle problem is definitely a dirty and/or disfunctional MAF (or harness)?

2) With the MAF disconnected, the engine idles smoothly but at very high rpms. Is this a direct result of the MAF being disconnected, or does it indicate a separate issue (IAC, EGR, throttle cable/sensor, fuel injectors/harness, etc)?

 

[gr1m_reaper]

I suppose I will find out thru trial and error, but hoping someone can recognize the problem and let me know what I'm in for... Founds tons of info in the forums but no clear and direct answers.

 

[JaredR]

I'd try swapping in a different MAF if you have one lying around and see if that helps. The car has a default fuel map it runs on when the MAF is disconnected. That map is very conservative for obvious reasons.

 

[gr1m_reaper]

No spare MAF, this is literally my first Volvo

 

[gr1m_reaper]

used MAF cleaner spray on the MAF - no change. checked all connections, everything appears to be connected properly. kind of annoyed that i've put all this time & money into it and it's probably just one minor thing holding it up!! i'm good (kind of) at replacing old parts with new, but not so good at diagnosing issues. i guess the next step is to make a trek up to the JY and try to get a MAF to try out, and if that doesn't work i suppose i'll be taking it apart and re-doing it all!

 

[UT OLI]

One thing at a time. Get 2 from the JY if possible (in case one is bad). You could also pay a indy shop to diagnose the problem and then fix it yourself. I would think you could find a good volvo or European Indy shop in Phoenix.

 

[98v70t5man]

Blake you didn’t confirm what you observed when the motor is idling and you move the maf harness around. Same deal with the injector harness. If no change in idle rpm or quality, did you replace every inch of vacuum hose? If not you know what to do. Could be a tear in the turbo inlet hose so look there. Spray carb cleaner in suspect areas with it idling. Idle increase gives you clues where to look further. Does it idle smoothly and evenly? Check the exhaust tip for this. Is the hood shaking or is it rock solid with the thing idling? That’ll offer signs of poorly firing cylinders. Does the idle hunt or is it just steady but high? Put up a video. Prob get more help. Resetting the ecu is another option and how does it behave thereafter? Check the quality and tone of the injector pulse by using a long screwdriver up against each injector’s base and listen to the handle in your ear. Good for now? I’ll read your whole thread since admittedly I just jumped in. I’d do all of this before buying a jy maf.

 

[98v70t5man]

Couple more things to check:

-you did replace the intake man gasket, right? You’re not running without one.
-chk the egr valve’s hard line and vac line
-pull the iac and blow it out with carb cleaner.
-in the area, is the three port coupler that connects to the iac in good shape? No tears in the rubber.
-is the oring in the vac tree new or in confirmed good condition? Chk for cracks in the tree plastic.
-vac hose to power brake booster

 

[gr1m_reaper]

wow thanks guys for the great responses - i have my motivation back!!