SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I originally made a thread in the general fwd/awd that I will link because it's related. I'm making this new one because the new issue is the fact my car won't start, and I'm heading back to university today so I'd like to have a running car instead of taking a ferry and bus!

Here's the link: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...l-in-spark-plug-wells-wrecked-distributor-cap

Over the past week I've replaced the PCV system, distributor cap and rotor, and the rear cam seal behind the rotor.

It was originally misfiring due to oil leaking out of the cam seal onto the distributor cap. I replaced the cap and the car was running fine again. Then I did the PCV and cam seal, and now it won't start.

I'm pretty confident I hooked everything up properly while putting everything back together after the PCV job. I've gone back and double and triple checked everything that I can so I really don't know what to do now.

Any suggestions are appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Is it cranking? What brand cap and rotor did you use? I would try the old rotor since that was working. Also double check all the vacuum lines, especially the ones on the throttle body. Is it throwing any codes?

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is it cranking? What brand cap and rotor did you use? I would try the old rotor since that was working. Also double check all the vacuum lines, especially the ones on the throttle body. Is it throwing any codes?

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
Yeah, it's cranking but that's it. The brand for the cap and rotor is Beck Arnley, not the OEM Bosch but I replaced the OEM Bosch cap and rotor with the Beck Arnley a few days ago and had it running before replacing the PCV. No codes currently. Had a cylinder 4 misfire code before replacing the cap and rotor. I'll check the vacuum lines again right now

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Beck is just a distributor at this point. Their parts are all Chinese. Whatever reputation they used to have is long gone. My dad had a tuneup done on his v70 and it was fine for a week and then it started misfiring and not starting so I replaced the cap and rotor with Bosch parts and its been fine since so I've seen it happen.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any tips for the actual starting process? A friend of mine who is a BMW mechanic recommended to have my foot to the floor on the accelerator while starting in order to disengage the fuel pump (after a couple attempts without doing that) so that I don't flood the engine. This worked a few days ago when I got it started after the misfire issue

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
You could pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it a few times if you think it's flooded.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Beck is just a distributor at this point. Their parts are all Chinese. Whatever reputation they used to have is long gone. My dad had a tuneup done on his v70 and it was fine for a week and then it started misfiring and not starting so I replaced the cap and rotor with Bosch parts and its been fine since so I've seen it happen.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
Interesting. Both the cap and rotor have 'Made in Italy' embossed on them. I know Bosch is the best, but as a university student who just dropped $400 in parts, some prices just aren't justifiable for me. A brand new part shouldn't have an effect on the vehicle's ability to start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
The fuel pump should be #2 in the fuse box below the windshield on the driver side. There's a diagram under the cover.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The fuel pump should be #2 in the fuse box below the windshield on the driver side. There's a diagram under the cover.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
My fuses appear to be different, possibly because it's a Canadian car? My owner's manual seems to agree with the photo I posted so I'll give that a shot. It seems weird it says ign. coil as well though
The fuel pump should be #2 in the fuse box below the windshield on the driver side. There's a diagram under the cover.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
I believe that's the relay, not the fuse.. That would be really strange it the Canadian version has different wiring. I'm petty sure pulling that will also cut the power to the ignition, which defeates the purpose. But you can try it... Can't hurt I guess.

I would put the old parts back on and see if it starts since they were working before, and then return the beck stuff and replace with Bosch if you can get it running. Did you do the plugs too? I would check their gap as well either way if you haven't.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I believe that's the relay, not the fuse.. That would be really strange it the Canadian version has different wiring. I'm petty sure pulling that will also cut the power to the ignition, which defeates the purpose. But you can try it... Can't hurt I guess.

I would put the old parts back on and see if it starts since they were working before, and then return the beck stuff and replace with Bosch if you can get it running. Did you do the plugs too? I would check their gap as well either way if you haven't.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
It's actually a 20A fuse, I tried pulling it and starting but still no luck. I agree though, it's weird that it would be different. In my secondary fuse box there's actually no designation for the #1 fuse, its just blank, and the rest are in a totally different order compared to the MVS page you linked.

I put the Bosch rotor back on and kept the Beck cap on there (the Bosch cap is toast, that was the problem before doing the PCV). Just pulled the plugs and they're wet with fuel so I'm now drying them out.

I'm contemplating buying all OEM plugs, wires, rotor and cap and praying that solves it... It'll be expensive but man this is annoying. By the way, thanks for all your help so far, I really appreciate it!

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,199 Posts
Yeah no problem. I'm just throwing suggestions out there... Are you sure everything's plugged in all the way? I had one plug that just didn't want to go in once and I has to retry it like 4x to actually get it to snap properly.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah no problem. I'm just throwing suggestions out there... Are you sure everything's plugged in all the way? I had one plug that just didn't want to go in once and I has to retry it like 4x to actually get it to snap properly.

Sent from my HTC M9 using Tapatalk
Like all the electrical connections and that kind of thing? Yeah I'm quite sure, I've pored over the engine bay many times now :(

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just found a vacuum hose that isn't connected to anything. Anybody know where this goes?





Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
You can have a pretty big vacuum leak and the car will still fire up. Any vacuum tube routing questions can also be answered by looking at a sticker on the underside of the hood. Most people forget that it's there.

You know that you have fuel and I doubt the cap is bad since most defects would not effect all cylinders. That goes for everything beyond the cap to each spark plug. Unless the cap has some funny high-resistance material in the conductors or a short to ground for all 5 of the outputs. So that all seems less likely. I'm thinking that it's a firing order issue. Either the wires are displaced by one position (that's pretty easy to do) or the cap is clocked wrong, or the distributor is in 180 degrees out of phase. Now this last two options I think are less likely since the parts are probably all keyed to only fit in one way. You know that you have gas since the plugs are wet, you can also pull a plug and check for spark by having it touch the block while cranking. If you have spark then it's firing order issue. If it's got no spark, it's a faulty part. If no spark on all 5, it's a problem from the rotor back. You can tell a lot before you drop some serious cash on the car. Good luck!
Sent from my rotor-dial phone with the help of Cortana.
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top