SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Gentlemen.

It's a pleasure to be here. I would appreciate any input you could provide on the following.

Background:

Recently purchased -1974 VOLVO 140E 2DR SEDAN B20F M41 K-JET

Pic - http://instagr.am/p/RDY6HRR4Cv/ (My Wife's account. Don't judge.)

Order of business:

Since the car is pristine condition, I am not looking to molest it, merely to make some upgrades (that I would have made in 1974 were it mine) and then enjoy it for the survivor that it is. My questions revolve around the fact that since it is a '74, there appears to be some unique model specs which I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around. Quality of parts is extremely important to me.

Header/Exhaust - I would like to install a ceramic coated header and SS exhaust. I plan on keeping the K-Jet fully intact, with the possibility of upgrading to the Street Perf cam kit at some point.

IPD header 108024 vs. SKANDIX header 1007529

SKANDIX Sport Exhaust 1007639 vs. SKANDIX Exhaust 1014686 (These both show as "up to 1973", does anyone know of options for 1974 or if these will work?)

Suspension - I would like to drop the car approx 1.5" front and rear, add Bilsteins, and a Swaybar kit.

IPD swaybars are my go-to, so no concerns there.

Sport Springs - My understanding is that the rear springs are the same set up as the 200 series, so I need to poach the upper cone from a donor car, however does anyone know where I can get matching drop springs that will work? I dont' want 1.5" 200 rear springs and 1" 140 fronts as it won't look right. I'm assuming the 200 series front springs won't work on my 142?

Bilsteins - 100194 Front, 104296 Rear. All good? Someone mentioned a mod needed for the front, but I couldn't find any details.

Cam Kit - Looking at the Street Performance Cam Kit from IPD. Will this work with the K-Jet system? What sort of gains will be seen? I'm obviously not looking for big hp numbers, but I'd like to see a little more zip. Online the B20F is rated at 135hp, but my owners manual says 112hp. Was there a de-tuned version?!

Thanks for any input or advice in advance. If you want to know more about anything feel free to ask, I just didn't want to write a book as my first post.

Cheers,
Mark
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
Welcome to Swedespeed, Mark.

Share the VIN/chassis number(s) on this fine 142 so we can check for point of origin.

You may wish to post more info/desires before ordering parts as some suppliers have varying reputations.

The '74 Volvos were/are heavy on smog controls and the FI system responds to performance mods accordingly.

Looking at this car in its final version what wheel/tire setup will you use?

Thanks.

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
My first Volvo (and my last new car :rolleyes: ) was a '74 142GLE. That was the best daily driver I ever had; comfortable, especially for long drives, adequate power for the time, excellent brakes, excellent fit and finish, British Racing Green, and so on. I loved that car, but when it was three years old and idiot in a van jumped a red light and totaled it. :mad: I'll be following this with interest. BTW, your car looks a lot like one that was on sale recently in Ottawa ON, is it the same one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks George.

Vin# is VC1426858440409

Door sticker says "Mfg in Gothemberg Sweden"

I'm over the moon thrilled to have found this 142. It's a true survivor that is 99% perfect. Garage kept, one owner till 2005, I purchased it off second. 59,000miles, perfect interior, AC works...etc etc etc. I got it for a fair price and I don't plan on ever selling it. My family had a '73 244 in the late 70's, so there is some sentimental value as well.

I don't want to molest such an original car, my desire is to keep it as original looking as possible but to make a few upgrades to suspension and motor to up the pleasure on what is already a blast to drive. This will never be a DD, but will stay warm and happy in the garage for pleasure use only.

Having spent 3 hours on the V-Perf site last night I think they are my ticket. I'm extremely picky about quality parts and don't mind paying for them. Any other options I should be looking at?

My current thoughts are V-Perf prog springs, Bilsteins, Poly Bushings.

4-2-1 Ceramic header, 2.5" SS piping, DynoMax Exhaust.

Down the road I'm I'll get them to do head work and cam.

Wheel/tire setup is still up in the air.....I'm honestly a little attached to the stock rims, I think they look fantastic, however I might be tempted to do a VTO Classic 8 as it would look period correct.

Just as background, I've had a stage III S70 T5 and an '85 245 wagon as previous Volvos (and a FI '75 VW currently as well) so I'm not completely in NEWB territory, however I'm all about learning from the best and not making mistakes that I don't need to!

Cheers,
Mark
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
My first Volvo (and my last new car :rolleyes: ) was a '74 142GLE. That was the best daily driver I ever had; comfortable, especially for long drives, adequate power for the time, excellent brakes, excellent fit and finish, British Racing Green, and so on. I loved that car, but when it was three years old and idiot in a van jumped a red light and totaled it. :mad: I'll be following this with interest. BTW, your car looks a lot like one that was on sale recently in Ottawa ON, is it the same one?

Hmmmmmmmmm - could be...

IP address is Canada -

...but this car...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?173030-1974-142-for-sale-Ottawa-Canada&p=1935582

...http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt126/robsvolvos/Robs 1974 142GL/P1020536.jpg

and this car...

http://instagram.com/p/RDY6HRR4Cv/

...don't appear to be identical.

George Dill



George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My first Volvo (and my last new car :rolleyes: ) was a '74 142GLE. That was the best daily driver I ever had; comfortable, especially for long drives, adequate power for the time, excellent brakes, excellent fit and finish, British Racing Green, and so on. I loved that car, but when it was three years old and idiot in a van jumped a red light and totaled it. :mad:
Ouch. Always seems to be idiots in vans. grr.

I'll be following this with interest. BTW, your car looks a lot like one that was on sale recently in Ottawa ON, is it the same one?
No actually, I'm from Vancouver BC area. Crazy though, I've not seen a single other 142 in gold online, and now there's one almost identical! Awesome thing is that the other car has the rims I'm contemplating, and now I get to see them on there. Thanks for the link George.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
After my '74 was totaled I had to go used for my Volvos. I don't remember how many, but the one's that come to mind were a '73 145 (with the miserable BW35(?) slushbox), a '72 144, and a '72 142. All of them went over 100k miles, which was good for the time, and the 144 and 142 went over 150k miles. I really counted on getting good used 140s and 240s, but after Volvo went FWD the market seemed to dry up. It wasn't that they weren't there, but that the hard core Volvo owners were hanging on to them, and when they did sell the price was too high for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,393 Posts
2tall!
Please forgive the apparent cold water and wet blankets, BUT until you get very well accustomed to the car, your chances of gaining much with the mods you propose are virtually nil. The standard cam is very little differerent from the street perf cam and the standard exhaust, on a stock engine is actually BETTER than most headers. Further one of the vendors you
mention has been VERY problematic about being eager to take advance payments and sometimes taking years to deliver the merchandise, and those who complain or threaten
lawsuits have been treated MOST shabbily. For these reasons, as one who has been driving 544s, 444s, 164s, 144s, 145s and 122s since 1967, I would STRONGLY recommend going
for stock configuration FIRST, with new rings,tight valves, and everything else in as good a shape as you can get (especialy suspension bushings) and see just what a GREAT car
you have before putting yourself into a bunch of difficult problems
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
oh.

well damn. call me a sucker.

*insert momentary pause as dream of VP being the answer to all my problems comes crashing down.*

Thanks for the honest talk Walrus and John, guess I need to think this all through a bit.

I'm honestly having a hard time finding good info on a path to take with my car, so I appreciate the input. The DynoMax parts are already on their way.......should I put them in a closet and order stock res and muffler to start?

Motor has 58,000 orig miles, I'm thinking new rings are a little over kill? I suppose a compression test will tell me alot.

Is the lack of perf upgrade with cams and head work due to the FI system on the B20F?

I really really love this car and the way it drives but would like a little less "boating" action. Start with new Poly (or OE?) suspension bushing? Are the swaybars seen as a NEWB mistake?

Sorry for all the questions, but I feel like I need to start from scratch with my plan.

So where SHOULD I be looking/reading? These names were thrown around in the TB forum:

KG Trimning
TTV Racing
Knox Motorsports
Schneider Racing Cams

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Mark
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,579 Posts
To avoid any future confusion, the company under discussion is VPD (Vintage Performance Developments), not VP Autoparts, which is a perfectly respectable source for restoration parts.

To improve handling, first make sure all bushings are in good condition. Next step is the IPD swaybar setup. Next are the shocks, and Bilsteins are excellent. There is something about an adapter that makes them fit certain model years, but I don't know if that applies to the '74 or not.

Walrus George is correct about the headers not being a performance upgrade. The only ones that are potentially better than the stock manifold and head pipes are Stahl headers, but no header accomplishes much of anything unless you install a cam with a lot more overlap than stock.

The single best thing you can do to increase performance is to have the head correctly ported, with particular attention to the exhaust ports. That's the foundation for any other mods, which are futile without having that done. K-jet should track such mods with no difficulty (unlike D-jet).

Just FYI, I do high performance work on pushrod Volvos for a living, and I'm not that far from you. However, I'm not a parts dealer and I'm backlogged into next spring sometime. If you're not in a big hurry for more power, we can discuss that off the forum:

phil AT vclassics DOT com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
To avoid any future confusion, the company under discussion is VPD (Vintage Performance Developments), not VP Autoparts, which is a perfectly respectable source for restoration parts. ... /QUOTE]

Nice save on the correct full name. :D

And a second thought from the Old Fart. As the car is low mileage, it may be a good idea to do compression and leakdown tests before diggin' into the engine as it may not need any work right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks gentlemen. I'm grateful for your input.

Phil - an email will be forthcoming.

John - good call, I'll get on both compression and leakdown.

Feeling better already :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
Thanks gentlemen. I'm grateful for your input.

Phil - an email will be forthcoming.

John - good call, I'll get on both compression and leakdown.

Feeling better already :)
Good.

Does your community have required smog inspection for this car?

Is the current exhaust system on the car in usable condition?

Is this a USA or Canadian version?

Thanks.

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Good.

Does your community have required smog inspection for this car?
Yes. Tail pipe sniffer, level just has to be close to what was required in 1974

Is the current exhaust system on the car in usable condition?
No. When the car was stored they would start it and run it for 5min then shut it off so all the condensation sat in the resonator and tail pipe. Both are completely shot.

Is this a USA or Canadian version?
Im 99% sure it was purchased new in Canada?

Vin# is VC1426858440409

Door sticker says "Mfg in Gothemberg Sweden"

Speedo is in MPH.

Thanks!
Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,393 Posts
The two 8s in the VIN are not explained on the linked table. This is the kind of info that the dear Ulla Bergwall at the Volvo factory can help with.
She is referred to rather frequently on the 1800list so maybe some of the guys there can help you get her e-mail address and answer your questions.
For those following my career, I was discharged from St. John's Hospital on Friday afternoon and returned home to Bartlesville, still pretty sore from the tube that went between my ribs. They fixed me up with an oxygen separator and a few cylinders later Friday evening. We got a blood oxygen saturation meter last evening and it looks like I am slightly above borderline and improving on Oxygen saturation so I went to
church without the cylinder this morning and did OK. I will definitely need the oxygen when I go to Denver for hospitalization the week of November 12. Hopefully they can do something for my cough and shortness of breath. Many thanks for your concern!
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top