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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brought home a 1973 1800ES yesterday. It's a one owner car with 48,000 original miles. Not certain when it was taken off the road, but it was some time ago; had been sitting in the original owner's driveway for many years.

Rockers are shot, rear wheel arches and quarters will need fixing, and there are a few other small rot areas (but minor ones). The underbody is solid as are all of the structural elements including the front cross member.

Biggest challenge in terms of body work is probably going to be the passenger side front fender; looks like the car suffered an impact at some point and there are some thick areas of cracked filler and evidence of welding underneath. You can see that the fender and headlight assembly on that side appear to be higher than on the driver's side (by my rough measure the headlight is around 1/2" higher). I'll probably do all of the other body work and then consult a professional when I get to that part.

Interior is pretty much perfect except for dirt. Leather seats are intact and still (amazingly) supple; they should be near-perfect with a cleaning and some dye. Original floor mats protected the carpet perfectly; it is clean, bright, and looks nearly new.

Plan is to let it rest in my barn for 12-18 months while I attend to other projects and then start an amateur resto of it. I'll probably start cleaning the interior and engine bay in the intervening time as I admire her.

I'll post some more photos to detail the as-is state of the car and will update this thread as I get into the project.

Here she is (along with my brother who helped get her onto the trailer):



















 

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Nice find - thanks for sharing and showing.

Lemmee see here...

One C70, two 240s and an ES - any more?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice find - thanks for sharing and showing.

Lemmee see here...

One C70, two 240s and an ES - any more?

George Dill
Full disclosure (and referrals to mental health professionals welcome):
1998 V70R (Saffron) - mother-in-law's daily driver now
1998 C70 (Saffron) - fair weather car. Mostly sits in the garage
1990 244DL - son's school car
1988 245DL - One owner car. Working on the suspension and fixin up little bits and pieced.
1977 242DL - Just finished (mostly, anyway) amateur resto. Owned the car since early 90s.
1973 1800ES - latest evidence of a spiraling problem.

Hoping the 1800 will keep me busy for several years and prevent any more acquisitions. Barn is pretty much full up at this point anyway.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Let me know if this page does not click...

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

...but if yes download and save each of the documents associated with your ES.

Thanks.

George Dill
Thanks George! I had found these about a week ago and spent the better part of a day downloading, saving them to hard drive, and also burning a couple of failsafe DVDs.

Planning on having them all printed out and putting them into some three-ring binders in plastic sleeves for ready reference during the project.

In the meantime I need to find some adult continuing ed courses on welding :)
 

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The first rule of welding is don't cheap out on the equipment. I bought a super cheap harbor freight flux core wire feed welder and it made it ten times harder to learn to weld. And I warped the crap out of everything I welded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The first rule of welding is don't cheap out on the equipment. I bought a super cheap harbor freight flux core wire feed welder and it made it ten times harder to learn to weld. And I warped the crap out of everything I welded.
Thanks for the advice. I'd appreciate recommendations on equipment and how-to courses (book or online). I'm also trying to see if I can find some local adult continuing education courses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
What's Original and What's Memorex?

I'm just starting to assess the state of the car and would appreciate advice, information, and opinions.

Below are photos of the filler over the wing to cowl weld, a shot of the underside of the wing to inner fender (??) seam and welds, rust under the front cowl, and filler over the weld between the front grill area (??) and the wing.

The area over the scraped-away filler near the cowl featured cracked and peeling paint that left portions of the filler exposed. The filler there appears to be run-of-the-mill Bondo. The driver's side doesn't have any of these issues either near the cowl or down near the headlight. The filler near the headlight is stiffer and whiter; does not look like run-of-the-mill Bondo.

What I'd like to know is:
a) Do you think the wing was replaced? How can I tell?

b) what type of filler (and how much) did these areas sport coming out of the factory? Based on crude magnet testing of the corresponding area on the driver side (which shows no evidence of maybe having been replaced) seems to indicate there's a good bit of filler there as well.

c) How can I tell if the passenger side fender really is mis-aligned as it appears it may be (as previous post indicates, it seems to be higher)? How can I rule out issues like greater suspension sag on one side vs the other before I go crazy thinking about pulling off fenders and such like?

d) When I go to sort out and repair the rusted out panel under the front cowl on the passenger side will I need to pull the fender to get access for welding? Any advice is welcome.

e) Finally; can anyone direct me to a step-by-step illustrated guide to replacing and aligning an 1800 front fender....just in case I need it later?











 

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Aligning a bolt-on body part is pure baby's work - it is aligning the rigid parts (hard points) of the car to which that part (fender) bolts that takes some skill.

Do you have a dedicated enclosed climate-controlled shop? Do you plan to disassemble the body then repair/restore or fix one area at a time?

George Dill
 

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Thanks for the advice. I'd appreciate recommendations on equipment and how-to courses (book or online). I'm also trying to see if I can find some local adult continuing education courses.
I know hobart and miller are top notch, pro grade brands. You can confirm or find other brands by talking to local body shops and also your instructors at the continuing education classes. That's about the limit of my advice, after my experience trying to learn on junk equipment I gave up and decided to leave it to the pros.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Aligning a bolt-on body part is pure baby's work - it is aligning the rigid parts (hard points) of the car to which that part (fender) bolts that takes some skill.

Do you have a dedicated enclosed climate-controlled shop? Do you plan to disassemble the body then repair/restore or fix one area at a time?

George Dill
Not climate controlled (barn/garage in New England) but weather tight and sound. Once I start the project in earnest the car will go to the garage level with a poured concrete floor, better lighting, ready access to a large hardwired compressor, etc.

I was planning on following the same process as for my 242 resto; strip the interior, chrome, and glass and then start the body work at one corner of the car (in this case probably that front passenger fender) and then work my way around. Will use the jackstand route for the underbody work.

I'm not in a rush; if it takes me 3-4 years of pecking away at this, that's OK.

p.s. That is a nice fender alignment. Gotta love the UK tabloids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I know hobart and miller are top notch, pro grade brands. You can confirm or find other brands by talking to local body shops and also your instructors at the continuing education classes. That's about the limit of my advice, after my experience trying to learn on junk equipment I gave up and decided to leave it to the pros.
Thanks Lloyd.
 
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