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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I recently adjusted the valves on my 1800. Took her for a spin around the block and back to adjust the timing. Seemed like #3 was skipping. Pushed on the resistor. The engine cut out and almost simultaneously the wire broke in my hand. New ignition wires. Nothing. No fire getting to the plugs. Checked the wire from the coil. Not sparking to the engine block. Replaced the coil w/ a Borg-Warner E40Z, replaced the grounding strap from the body to the back of th engine, checked the main relay and fuses. Still not starting. Does anyone have any ideas? Many thanks.
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (ralderson)

Welcome to Swedespeed, Robert.

What caused you to decide to change the timing?

How did you determine that #3 was "skipping"?

What led you to push on the "resistor"?

When the engine cut out did you hear any pops or snaps, see sparks anywhere or smell electrical burning odors?

George Dill
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (ralderson)

Points dirty? Point gap closing down? Insulator at the points/condensor junction shorting to the distributor body?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: 1970 1800E not starting (gdill2)

I changed the timing because the engine was pinging a bit. The haynes manual (I think) said to expect it. #3 just "seemed" like it was. I thought maybe I hadn't pushed the wire all the way down, hence the push on the resistor. When the engine stopped, it was like a switch being turned. No drama, just no fire. Oh, I did check out the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: 1970 1800E not starting (VolvoBob)

I replaced the rotor, the cap, the points, and the condensor. I checked the major wires. Is there anything else that could keep the coil from firing? Would the main relay do it? It seems to check out ok, but I'm not sure.
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (ralderson)

Does the + battery cable have more than one conductor wire (cable)?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: 1970 1800E not starting (gdill2)

Yes, it does. It goes to the main relay. The wire's continuity checked out ok.
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (ralderson)

Is the "main" relay bolted to the frame?

Does it have stamped markings at/near each terminal like letters and/or numbers?

Is the main relay a sealed unit or held together with bendable tabs?

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: 1970 1800E not starting (gdill2)

It's bolted to the body beside the fuel pump relay. I think it's called "main relay for the fuel injection." It's got numbers beside the terminals. 85 and 86 on the side fqacing forward, 30 on the middle one (this leads to the battery (+), then 87 on the rear. The tabs look bendable, but I haven't tried to pry it apart.

Modified by ralderson at 10:16 PM 4-26-2009
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (ralderson)

Do you have a wiring diagram specifically for the 1970 1800E?

George Dill
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (ralderson)

I'm sure you checked for 12 volts on the ignition coil and found it OK.
Your problem is probably the wire from the dist. to the coil. It goes through the tach. There is a wire loop inside the tach and two pins on the outside. One of them has a wire going to the dist. The other goes to the coil. Either one or both wires have become unpluged or the loop inside the tach is bad. Put a jumper wire from the coil to the dist and I bet it will start!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: 1970 1800E not starting (VolvoBob)

Funny enough, I checked that. I checked the wire from the distributor to the tach and the wire from the coil to the tach and the wire loop for continuity and they checked out ok. I also put a jumper from the coil to the dist (the old wire) and no go. That's one reason I was looking at the main relay.
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (ralderson)

So far it sounds like you've gone through every thing.
Here is one more thought, did you look in the oil fill of the rocker arm cover while the engine is being turned over to check for valve operation?
It could be that noise you were hearing was a failing fiber cam gear. If that's it don't worry about engine damage, the B20 is NOT an interference engine like the new ones.
 

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Re: 1970 1800E not starting (VolvoBob)

If the "main" relay has no wire directly to the ground (chassis) then it is grounded by the mounting bolts/screws.

Loosen each screw slightly then retighten.

With everything electrical turned OFF disconnect the negative battery cable and put a meter between the cable and the negative battery post to check for current flow. There should be no flow unless the car has a "stay-on" radio or alarm. With the cable still off check between the battery posts to confirm a healthy battery. Note: if the starter spins strongly the battery is probably OK. Darken the work area then touch the negative battery cable to the negative battery post looking for sparks. There should be none. Turn the ignition switch to "ON" then touch the cable again - there should be a small spark.

Now that you have confirmed a good battery and no direct electrical shorts return to the main relay and check every terminal with the meter during each power event - ignition key OFF, ON and START.

If all is good both in and out of the main relay then go to the next electrical terminal/device in line from each terminal on the main relay and check for power and/or short and/or no power during the three power events.

Before you try all this mess above pull the coil wire out of the distributor and coil and inspect the terminals closely both at each end of the wire and inside the distributor cap and coil. Clean/repair/replace as needed if any.

George Dill
 
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