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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed the rear shocks/springs on my 142, no problem. I've gone out a few times to get the front springs done but can't seem to get the lower wishbone to drop down. I supported the assembly with a jack, unbolted the drop link, the nut on lower ball joint and removed the shock. I thought from there when I lowered the jack the wishbone would drop down, gave it a few taps with a rubber mallet and still no luck. I have a Haynes manual but not a lot of detail around this, or Im just being a dummy. Either way any help is appreciated
 

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It has been a while since I did mine; but, from memory is the problem you are having getting the lower ball joint out of the knuckle? If so, the ball joint does not come out voluntarily. There is some serious 'stiction' between the tapered portion of the ball joint bolt that fits into the knuckle and the knuckle itself. You definitely need a ball joint separator to push the ball joint bolt out the bottom of the knuckle. I have one that looks like a small (very heavy duty) C clamp. You just need to find one with a forked end thin enough to slip between the bottom of the knuckle and the top of he ball joint. You just want to pop the tapered portion of the ball joint bolt out of the knuckle - nothing else.

If your ball joint has not been separated from the knuckle in a number of years be prepared for a bang when it separates.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thanks that's probably the issue. I thought the spring would be enough to separate it but wanted to make sure there weren't other items to unbolt before trying to pry it apart
 

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When I did mine I used the cheap tool from Harbor Freight.

I also bought a spring compressor set from them,

This looks like the one I used.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Make sure that you leave the nut on the ball joint, just turn it back about 1- 1.5 turns,

then Apply the ball joint tool, use a few turns on the screw to apply some force, then tap with a HARD hammer, I don't think a soft mallet will deform the taper to release it. (or 2 hammers , one held on the opposite side your tapping on, and use force on the "taps")

Try that a few times, then apply a little more of a turn to the tool and try again.

When the taper releases it will go BANG. as the nut on the ball joint shaft slams down.

Now apply the Spring Compressors and compress the spring a millimeter or so so that you can remove the nut.

BE CAREFUL, THE SPRING JUMPING INTO YOUR FACE MAY LEAVE A MARK, TAKE SOME TEETH, OR BOTH

I can look in the Garage later tonight for part numbers if you need.

I don't have pics or a thread, but I did the front at the same time I did my rear end.

A couple of pics of 142guys car in my thread as well, may be helpful

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?374417-Limited-Slip-Differential
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I did mine I used the cheap tool from Harbor Freight.

I also bought a spring compressor set from them,

This looks like the one I used.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Make sure that you leave the nut on the ball joint, just turn it back about 1- 1.5 turns,

then Apply the ball joint tool, use a few turns on the screw to apply some force, then tap with a HARD hammer, I don't think a soft mallet will deform the taper to release it. (or 2 hammers , one held on the opposite side your tapping on, and use force on the "taps")

Try that a few times, then apply a little more of a turn to the tool and try again.

When the taper releases it will go BANG. as the nut on the ball joint shaft slams down.

Now apply the Spring Compressors and compress the spring a millimeter or so so that you can remove the nut.

BE CAREFUL, THE SPRING JUMPING INTO YOUR FACE MAY LEAVE A MARK, TAKE SOME TEETH, OR BOTH

I can look in the Garage later tonight for part numbers if you need.

I don't have pics or a thread, but I did the front at the same time I did my rear end.

A couple of pics of 142guys car in my thread as well, may be helpful

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?374417-Limited-Slip-Differential
Awesome, thanks for all the details! Sounds like I was on the right track just need a big hammer and tool to separate the bj. I was just using a jack to compress the spring (what could go wrong, right?) but will probably pick up a compressor too.
 

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Awesome, thanks for all the details! Sounds like I was on the right track just need a big hammer and tool to separate the bj. I was just using a jack to compress the spring (what could go wrong, right?) but will probably pick up a compressor too.
Whoa!

No need for a spring compressor. In fact, unless you currently have oversize long travel springs on the car I would not use a spring compressor. Its going to get in the way and they can be hazardous during removal. If you have the original factory springs a floor jack under the lower A arm will do just fine to lower the A arm and release pressure on the spring in a controlled manner. Leaving the ball joint nut on the end of the ball joint bolt to limit movement is not a bad idea. However, personally I would not be tapping the nut or end of the bolt with a hammer because of the risk of damage to the threads. I just let the separator do its thing. It will make a bang when it releases but movement will be limited if you have the lower A arm supported (backed up by the nut left on the ball joint bolt).

Be aware that when you release the ball joint and lower the lower A arm, the upper A arm, knuckle and hub and brake disc and all that stuff is going to follow. When you finally pull the lower ball joint bolt out of the knuckle all that 'stuff' is going to fall down - perhaps only limited by the stretch in the brake lines. You need to make provision to support the upper A arm, knuckle, hub .... while you are doing this otherwise you are going to be saying 'fudge' ... a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whoa!

No need for a spring compressor. In fact, unless you currently have oversize long travel springs on the car I would not use a spring compressor. Its going to get in the way and they can be hazardous during removal. If you have the original factory springs a floor jack under the lower A arm will do just fine to lower the A arm and release pressure on the spring in a controlled manner. Leaving the ball joint nut on the end of the ball joint bolt to limit movement is not a bad idea. However, personally I would not be tapping the nut or end of the bolt with a hammer because of the risk of damage to the threads. I just let the separator do its thing. It will make a bang when it releases but movement will be limited if you have the lower A arm supported (backed up by the nut left on the ball joint bolt).

Be aware that when you release the ball joint and lower the lower A arm, the upper A arm, knuckle and hub and brake disc and all that stuff is going to follow. When you finally pull the lower ball joint bolt out of the knuckle all that 'stuff' is going to fall down - perhaps only limited by the stretch in the brake lines. You need to make provision to support the upper A arm, knuckle, hub .... while you are doing this otherwise you are going to be saying 'fudge' ... a lot.
Oh ok thanks, I'll skip the compressor then. Don't worry, I wouldn't hit the nut/bolt directly with a hammer but put a block of wood or rubber mallet in between, learned that one that hard way.

Picked up the separator this morning, will probably give this a try in the next few days
 

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Whoa!
However, personally I would not be tapping the nut or end of the bolt with a hammer because of the risk of damage to the threads. I just let the separator do its thing. It will make a bang when it releases but movement will be limited if you have the lower A arm supported (backed up by the nut left on the ball joint bolt).
I'm just referring to tapping the female tapered part,(Knuckle) the shockwave helps release the 2 parts. In this photo of my car you can see the nut covered in anti sieze and the rusty covered Knuckle part of the wheel hub. I guess when you use the "pickle fork" tool that applies the shock, but when using the screw type tool a tap is helpful. I'm NOT suggesting to hammer down on the ball joint threaded shaft.

As for the spring compressor, At Harbor Freight tools are cheap and with the 20 or 25 % coupon even cheaper, So when there I do pick up stuff I May need, and I agree that the use of it is not ideal and it's use can be avoided great. But I do seem to remember that I didn't have to compress much but I used it as I didn't know how the jack release process would evolve. The new Springs slipped right in of course as they are shorter. The rear springs on my car I actually shimmed a bit.

IMG_8536.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Alright 1 down, thanks again for the help here. In case someone else has the same question it's a matter of removing the shock, loosening these two bolts and using the Harbor Freight joint separator mentioned above.


 

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Yes of course the sway bar links need to come off,

On a side note, I see that you have Rubber Brake hoses, How old are they? I swapped mine out to PTFE with Stainless braid and as IPD dosn't have them for the 140 series I found ParagonPerformance. Somewhat close to you out in San Bernadino (Well not worth driving over there close, but cheap/quick shipping close) I Delt with Jim and he was very helpful and I confirmed fittings and lengths before he built and shipped them, and I have been very happy with them and the rebuilt calipers.

I ordered the PPB-VOLVO-142-6775 and they fit perfectly, you can see then in the pic I posted, They come in a variety of colors

https://www.paragonperformance.com/Auto-Brake-Line-Hose-Kits/Volvo

PH:1-800-270-0333, Ext:13
[email protected]
www.paragonperformance.com
455 W. Century Ave. Suite A
San Bernardino, CA 92408
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes of course the sway bar links need to come off,

On a side note, I see that you have Rubber Brake hoses, How old are they? I swapped mine out to PTFE with Stainless braid and as IPD dosn't have them for the 140 series I found ParagonPerformance. Somewhat close to you out in San Bernadino (Well not worth driving over there close, but cheap/quick shipping close) I Delt with Jim and he was very helpful and I confirmed fittings and lengths before he built and shipped them, and I have been very happy with them and the rebuilt calipers.

I ordered the PPB-VOLVO-142-6775 and they fit perfectly, you can see then in the pic I posted, They come in a variety of colors

https://www.paragonperformance.com/Auto-Brake-Line-Hose-Kits/Volvo

PH:1-800-270-0333, Ext:13
[email protected]
www.paragonperformance.com
455 W. Century Ave. Suite A
San Bernardino, CA 92408
Cool, thanks. Im just getting into this car and realizing it pretty much needs everything, I'll check it out.
 
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