[jclars]

I ordered and recieved the motor and adapter with misc. accessory parts to start an electric conversion. I studied long and hard these past few months, and made contacts with experts, One shop in CA had converted a P1800 several years ago and still had templates for the adapter and coupler. That in itself was a huge step.

Then I found a local electric shop that has an EV division. Basically one guy who has done numerous conversions, mostly VW, but with the same motor system. I ordered the motor from him.

So are you ready for the ride? This car is not a matching numbers car, coming with later 1965 B18 engine and M40 Tranny, both of which had been cobbled to fit. Furthermore, like my P1800, all changes will be totally reversible. So no harm done except to anyone who would actually want to reverse this type of massive improvement.

Pix show B18 flywheel (w/o ring gear) mounted to the electric motor and the B18 clutch/pressure plate added. Finally motor mounted to M40.

 

[volvogod]

Nice upgrading and the skill to convert to electric. Send pics as you build this and more information.
What HP is the electric motor, Voltage, batteries, locations, how will the motor be supported ect.
Will the batteries need cooling?
It looks so weird; you covered the starter hole.
Bolt up a starter to mess with people.

 

[jclars]

Ha! I like the starter idea! If I had left the ring gear on, I could tell people it is my spare motor!

I did the deed today, then realized I probably will have to pull it out again (probably won't be the last time, either!) As you can see, the motor terminals are front and top center. I should have rotated them 90 degrees to one side or the other to make them more accessible and to buy some room for the (front) battery pack which will sit on top. But then again, I will need to start on the front engine bay layout to determine the best orientation of the terminals, so yeah, I meant to do it...

I need to also design isolators which look like will have to be side mounted, as I may only have 1" clearance at the sub-frame, unless you guys know of some good skinny isolators out there.

The motor is a NetGain Hyper 9HV. Up to 180V, but I am shooting for 100-120 mile range with 144V. It is rated at 120 HP with 173 ft-lb of torque (from 0 rpm, mind you!) My initial battery selection is based on size to come close to the weight distribution of the stock car. So I will have a large pack in front and a smaller one in back, that will fit exactly where the gas tank was, allowing me to maintain the full cargo floor. I will probably have to install a bulkhead to mount various components, so that will take up cargo space at the back of the rear seat.

This project has been so very different from my previous car restoration/upgrades. It was strange to have to address the battery size and configuration first to ensure room for everything and to attain optimum target mileage and performance. But I feel like I made the right selection and should see some really sweet gains in performance. I wish I was convinced this is an environmentally sound conversion, but really question the whole balance between fossil fuel vs. lithium mining, et al. Anyway, I am not going to try to justify it other than as a great modernization challenge. With low operating costs.

 

[jclars]

In between the new EV stuff, I have standard restoration activity happening too. When I need to ground myself, I return to what I know best to calm me down! So the first item demanding attention was my front suspension. With rotten rubber oozing out of almost every joint, it was not a hard decision to rebuild the front end. So all new bushings and control arm pins made it solid again. Except it appears the PO kept adjusting toe-in as it wore out and I actually ended up with about 1/2" toe OUT! That should be interesting while driving it to an alignment shop under more HP and Torque!

 

[jclars]

I had to do numerous mock-ups of the battery location considering weight distribution and volume. I found a new dense system that will just fit, and give me the range and performance I want. Unfortunately, the front one will bury my motor so, no showcasing like my gas engines...The motor controller sits where the stock 12V battery would normally sit.

I will have 25 units in front and 15 units in back, giving me close to the 144V I desire for a 100-120 mile range, per charge.

Attached pic shows the front battery pack size using foam blocks. The rear pack will fit exactly into the vacated gas tank hole, so no interference there.

 

[jclars]

I pulled the motor and rotated it on the bellhousing to put the terminals where I want them on the LH side. I also modified the support bracket to mount to the front cross member including 1' rubber isolators. And finally, decided to use the front battery cavity as the controller mount. It will connect directly to the aforementioned motor terminals on the LH side.

With the motor in its permanent location, I have turned my attention to cleaning the under carriage and painting it. The last of the grease and oil will be history!!

 

[volvogod]

Thanks for the update. That looks awesome, like the 2 were made for each other.

 

[jclars]

What you see is what you get! Which is a smooth (but a bit lumpy) under body without exhaust system, fuel lines and grease/oil. I have rear brake drums and lower trunk to do, but will happen at ground level.

I moved the car off the lift for the next phase, which will be designing the charging and battery management systems which are happening in the trunk (boot). I am once again waiting on parts to arrive, so I have my shop truck on the lift to repair a leaky air bag in the meantime.

 

[gearbasher]

Well, to be the Devil's Advocate, you still need to grease the front end and have oil in the tranny and diff. Just busting them. I wish I had your passion and patience. Looks great!!!

 

[jclars]

Thanks gearbasher - If I forget and start out in 1st or 2nd, I could have lots of oil all over those nice clean floor pans. I guess I could program the controller to lower the torque, but what fun is that??

 

[jclars]

Coasted for awhile, but received the hidden "fuel" door last week and finished it this morning. This will provide a nice charge port and provides dual weather protection.

Also sold my B18 to a fellow in Seattle and the gas tank w/radiator locally. Helps finance a few parts and nice to reclaim the floor space as well!

 

[jclars]

Waiting for the charging equipment, but not totally idle. Painted the trunk where the equipment will ride, and put sound dampening mat on the interior.

 

[jclars]

Couldn't resist trying the carpet kit that came with the car. I never even examined it when I bought the car, as I figured it was a bonus good or bad. But all good! Fit around everything and even came with a sound pad, so now double quiet!

It laid quite flat for being in a package for who knows how long? Looks like a nice napping spot!

 

[jclars]

Received the charging system on Monday and spent time mocking up different placements to save as much trunk/boot floor space as possible. Ended up with a vertical bulkhead to mound the major pieces. Battery may end up behind the spare tire, if I can find a smaller one. I don't need it for starting, obviously, so hopefully it can be downsized a bit.

The rear battery pack (cardboard box place holder) will be in the gas tank hole and will not be much deeper than the gas tank for clearance.

On the bench you see the 12V DC to DC battery charger, the master control unit (battery management system). and the main 120/220 volt AC to DC charger.

I may finally start the wiring tomorrow!

 

[jclars]

I went to a safe haven and almost completed modernizing the 12V system today, upgrading the old fuse box that had broken cardboard backing falling off along with antiquated ceramic fuses.. Having put the EV controller on the old battery shelf in the firewall, I have relocated the 12V battery to the trunk (boot) and ran 6 ga cable to the front ignition switch. Total amp draw on the 12V fuse box may be 30 amps after I add a cooling fan for the controller radiator. (That's with all accessories turned on.) Should have plenty of capacity for the LV relays and contactors on the HV circuits. The original wiring on the Volvo was in good shape, plus it was sized for 6V with 25 amp service, so it is extra heavy wire gauge for 12V at 30 amp.

Cant put off the HV wiring much longer...

 

[V50_M66]

Looking great! Such a cool project