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Hey all new to the forum. Recently purchased a non running 164e to mess around with. Trailered it home and when I got back I tried starting it. Fired right up and ran decent. Ran the car a bit and it slowly started to run rougher and rougher. Would stutter out at 1500 rpms. Replaced fuel filter and drained tank then filled it up. Got the same result. Went out the next day and it wouldn't start. Has good spark, good fuel pressure. Can hear fuel pump run. Car does fire but is running off the cold start injector. Regular 6 injectors are not getting any power. Have tested and replaced temp sensors. Threw a new ecm at it to see what would happen (was cheap and in the area). Same thing no power to injectors. Would my next step be to pull the harness apart and look for breaks in wires or could there be another sensor or something causing no power to all 6 injectors?
 

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Hey all new to the forum. Recently purchased a non running 164e to mess around with. Trailered it home and when I got back I tried starting it. Fired right up and ran decent. Ran the car a bit and it slowly started to run rougher and rougher. Would stutter out at 1500 rpms. Replaced fuel filter and drained tank then filled it up. Got the same result. Went out the next day and it wouldn't start. Has good spark, good fuel pressure. Can hear fuel pump run. Car does fire but is running off the cold start injector. Regular 6 injectors are not getting any power. Have tested and replaced temp sensors. Threw a new ecm at it to see what would happen (was cheap and in the area). Same thing no power to injectors. Would my next step be to pull the harness apart and look for breaks in wires or could there be another sensor or something causing no power to all 6 injectors?
My 145E (long time ago) would have bouts of stalling and mis-fire. Found out some of the wires to the injectors fractured at the crimp and because the boot was still good it held the wire close enough to the pin that most of the time it made a connection but sometimes not. Gave me fits until I pulled the boot off and found the broken wires.
 

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D;

Welcome to this forum and congrats on your new vehicle.

I'd recommend getting a Haynes Manual for the car...it will be the best $20 you ever spent on it.

I'm no expert on the 6 Cyl but I expect it works similarly to the 4 cyl and that requires the Fuel Injection Power Relay to supply the ECU with power, and the ECU in-turn supplies power to the Injectors (and NOT 12V directly...EVER!, see: https://www.sw-em.com/bosch_d-jetronic_injection.htm ) There's also a link to the FI Troubleshooting Manual.

Again, I'm not intimately familiar with the 6Cyl system, but if it is similar to the earlier 4 Cyl system, like '70 1800E circuit pictured at link, it requires the ECU to power Cold Start Valve injector. If configuration is as the later '73 1800ES circuit pictured, CSV does NOT require ECU to be powered as it is controlled by the independent Thermo Time Switch.

Good Hunting!
 

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Go here and download the Fuel Injection Fault Tracing manual (abut 1/2 way down the list).

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.php

This will be your best friend. Its primarily focused on the 1800e; but, I believe that it includes a wiring diagram for the 164E. The 4 cyl and 6 cyl systems are essentially the same. The 6 cyl batch fires 3 and 3 instead of 2 and 2.

If you installed a new D jet control unit, was it the exact same part number? The control units did change over the years (the later ones did not control the cold start injector). I believe that the fuel curves in the later 4 cyl cars changed with the B20E to F change and I expect that that the B30 must have had a similar change with the B30E - B30F change (although maybe the E was never available in North America). As an observation, the control unit is probably the least likely item to fail on a D jet system. If your fuel pump was going through the approximately 2-3 second prime cycle when you switch the key on then your control unit was probably OK. The control unit controls fuel pump operation.

Regular 6 injectors are not getting any power.
When you look at the D jet wiring diagrams, you will see that the D jet is unlike any modern EFI system. The injectors are not ground switched, they are switched on the + side. With the system switched on; but, the engine not running you will measure no voltage at the injectors. You need to use injector test lights plugged into the injectors - or a simple 3 volt light bulb with leads back probed into the injector socket will work for the $2 solution. The no-tool test is open the hood, switch the ignition switch to run and go out to the engine and operate the throttle. If you listen carefully, as you open and close the throttle you should be able to hear the injectors clicking. If you hear the clicking then your injectors are getting power.

Since the engine 'ran decent' when you initially got the car home, I don't think you have a wiring problem; but, if you were poking around you could have disturbed the wiring and 45 year old wiring harnesses don't like being disturbed. The insulation on the wires to the injectors is particularly prone to heat damage. If you were removing the plugs to test the injectors you could have damaged the insulation and created some problems for yourself. If the engine has significant miles on it, the injector harness wiring will be heat compromised (including the fractures described by Gruendig) and you will likely have to plan for grafting a new section of high temperature wire to the injectors. I think complete new harnesses are available if you have the $ and are so inclined. However, before messing with the wiring harness read the D jet manual and start the trouble shooting procedure in the manual.

Finally, perhaps purchase a can of Ron K's favorite product - Deoxit. Bad electrical connections are the most common problem with the D jet system.
 

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Thanks all. Have a haynes manual that came with the car. Funny thing is the mice got to the injection part of the manual and thats it. Will try these methods and get back. Car only has 78k miles but sat for the last 10 years.
 

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Sat for 10 years prior to you getting it to sort of run? I am surprised that the engine showed any activity after 10 years of dormancy. 10 years of being parked with stale fuel in the injectors suggests that you might want to pack up the injectors and send them to a cleaning service to have them cleaned and flow tested. No point beating your self to death trying to diagnose if the injectors are plugged. If you remove the injectors from the holders, make sure that you have new pintel seals on hand because the old ones will definitely not seal when you re insert the injectors.
 

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Thanks all. Have a haynes manual that came with the car. Funny thing is the mice got to the injection part of the manual and thats it. Will try these methods and get back. Car only has 78k miles but sat for the last 10 years.
We owned both a 164 and 164E in the early 80s, solid and reliable, the last of the real Volvos. "... sat for 10 years"... there's a good chance your injectors have seized up, possibly due to moisture and lack of use.
 
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