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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My lemon (see blown engine at 65K thread) might have blown the tranny now. Initially I thought that there was a starter problem as it clicked but didn't crank. Replaced the starter, but same sound/action. Removed starter from flywheel, the starter engages and spins. So I thought it blew another engine???? But, I can rotate the engine from the crankshaft. I look underneath the car and see lots of oil that has leaked out from the tranny. Can a tranny going bad make the flywheel be really hard to move so the starter can't turn it? How can I check if my tranny is gone?

My issue at the moment is that the starter can't turn the engine as it's seized/hard to turn somewhere...
 

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Have you checked for 12v at the starter? There are two fusable links attached to the positive terminal on the battery. PF2 drives the starter motor. If this is open the starter will click, as the solenoid is on a different fuse, but won't spin. See thread below for location of fuse links. I've seen quite a few complaints here about these opening or being intermittent due to mechanical or thermal stress.

 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you checked for 12v at the starter? There are two fusable links attached to the positive terminal on the battery. PF2 drives the starter motor. If this is open the starter will click, as the solenoid is on a different fuse, but won't spin. See thread below for location of fuse links. I've seen quite a few complaints here about these opening or being intermittent due to mechanical or thermal stress.

Yes, the starter works fine when not attached to the flywheel. It can't spin the flywheel when attached. There are only 2 things that can slow it down, the engine or the transmission. The tranny leaked a lot of fluid and the engine turns over at the crank, so I think somehow the tranny is making it very hard for the flywheel to turn over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Let this be a good lesson for everyone. If you come here you should listen to others' suggestions. Eventhough it made no sense to me to check the fuses, I did....and....the PF2 fuse is blown. Once bypassed the car started up no problem. So thanks ecoDrive, you the man! I'm assuming these are non-replaceable fuses and the whole cable needs to be replaced. Easy to check :)

Now I still don't know why and where my tranny leakes oil and what to do about it :(
 

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2011 Volvo C70 / 2001 Kawasaki ZX-9R / 1982 Kawasaki KZ440
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If you are turning the engine by hand, you are turning the flywheel by hand. The crankshaft turns both the flywheel and crankshaft pulley directly at the same time.

It sounds like a problem with the starter. How is your battery? It takes a lot less amperage to activate the starter on the bench.
Edit: Looks like you found the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If this helps anybody:

This guy had the same problem and went down the same rabbit hole as I. I wish I found it before :) It explains EXACTLY the symptom, the reasoning to think it's a seized motor, how to find the problem and how to fix it. Seems that the price between the whole cable and the splice is really small, so might be worth replacing the whole cable, especially if you took it out. I think you can splice it while still on the car, so saves some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If this helps anybody:

This guy had the same problem and went down the same rabbit hole as I. I wish I found it before :) It explains EXACTLY the symptom, the reasoning to think it's a seized motor, how to find the problem and how to fix it. Seems that the price between the whole cable and the splice is really small, so might be worth replacing the whole cable, especially if you took it out. I think you can splice it while still on the car, so saves some time.
If you are turning the engine by hand, you are turning the flywheel by hand. The crankshaft turns both the flywheel and crankshaft pulley directly at the same time.

It sounds like a problem with the starter. How is your battery? It takes a lot less amperage to activate the starter on the bench.
Edit: Looks like you found the problem.
Deerock: the starter was replaced as I heard the solenoid work, but no crank. The battery is like new. And you are so right about the amps needed to activate the starter on the bench vs in the car...that's why my logic was flawed :) I didn't get it why the starter would work on the bench vs being able to turn the flywheel. Thanks anyway. I started the car, now I need to replace that fuse or the cable.
 

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‘13 S60 T6 Platinum AWD; Radius WI15s
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Not yet. Waiting for a 150A circuit breaker to fix the battery cable. Any ideas? I read everywhere how reliable they are. Nothing on my S60 is reliable!
Ouch I’m sorry you haven’t had great luck with your car. I feel you tho. I used to have an 07 Prius and I got it specifically because I wanted a nice and a reliable car for cheap. That car ended up at the mechanic numerous times until eventually it spun a rod bearing and I got rid of it for good. It was as if I somehow ended up with the least reliable Prius in the world.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ouch I’m sorry you haven’t had great luck with your car. I feel you tho. I used to have an 07 Prius and I got it specifically because I wanted a nice and a reliable car for cheap. That car ended up at the mechanic numerous times until eventually it spun a rod bearing and I got rid of it for good. It was as if I somehow ended up with the least reliable Prius in the world.
That's exactly how it feels with this one. I think it will be our last Volvo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Deerock: the starter was replaced as I heard the solenoid work, but no crank. The battery is like new. And you are so right about the amps needed to activate the starter on the bench vs in the car...that's why my logic was flawed :) I didn't get it why the starter would work on the bench vs being able to turn the flywheel. Thanks anyway. I started the car, now I need to replace that fuse or the cable.
If anybody would like to see how I fixed this, here is a pic. I really didn't want to fork out $200 Canadian for a cable or $150 for a splice. The part was $20 from Amazon and I reused the yellow copper pieces from the broken battery cable.

If I had to do it again, I would have placed the circuit breaker on the outside of the battery case. It fits under the hood, but only barely. I took a video just to make sure. I didn't want to cut the battery box, but I should have, it would have been much more pretty :)

I don't see why you could not do this for the other fuse also.

Feedback is appreciated!
 

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Nice work. Here's another solution incase you find yours not filing well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice work. Here's another solution incase you find yours not filing well.
I saw that, except mine can be reset :) It's bulkier for sure. If I ever need to do the other one, I would route it towards the engine bay just outside the battery box...
 
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