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Glad to hear my post helped. Glad to hear 10k was enough. Where did you get you LED lamps for such a low price?
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I bought them from a seller in Kent, Washington on eBay. They're even less money direct from China, but I didn't want to wait. Big spender, nein?
The 10k's work great, not a bit of glow in the LED's. I thought about buying more packages of different value 1/4 w resistors to play with,, but instead covering my bets by buying bulk 1k's (15 cents) and some 2k''s along with the 12 10k's. I just started with the 10k's and that worked. The grandiose plans to measure exactly went out the window, as did the later plan of measuring heat from the resistors.
Incidentally, I worked out a method to fit the resistors without soldering, although I did solder. I have pictures, if anyone is interested. I don't want to completely hijack this thread, though.
Thank you again for your very helpful posts!
 

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Discussion Starter #122
I bought them from a seller in Kent, Washington on eBay. They're even less money direct from China, but I didn't want to wait. Big spender, nein?
The 10k's work great, not a bit of glow in the LED's. I thought about buying more packages of different value 1/4 w resistors to play with,, but instead covering my bets by buying bulk 1k's (15 cents) and some 2k''s along with the 12 10k's. I just started with the 10k's and that worked. The grandiose plans to measure exactly went out the window, as did the later plan of measuring heat from the resistors.
Incidentally, I worked out a method to fit the resistors without soldering, although I did solder. I have pictures, if anyone is interested. I don't want to completely hijack this thread, though.
Thank you again for your very helpful posts!
Pics would be awesome, no hijacking in that! This thread, initially, I started because I wanted to have a consolidated "one-stop-shop" place for someone if they want to do LED replacement on one or any of the bulbs on their XC90, interior included. Seeing that the resistors are crucial to the interior, please do share your pictures with us here.

Regarding the third-row dome light housing—I think that my pins may be broken since they no longer fully seat into the black part of the housing, therefore not being able to retain enough tension to hold up the housing even with the slightest movement of the headliner/headliner cover. I'll get my buddy to see if he can tackle it, but I think that I need to either get a new housing or somehow push those metal pins back as much as I can in order to get them fully seated.
 

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OK, I'll get them culled and organized.
I'y's not clear what you mean by "pins", but if you're saying that the spring clips are backing out of the lamp housing, you could do the baking soda fix to keep them in place. If the clips won't seat all the way in, the plastic tab that hooks the clip may be broken and stuffed into the bottom of the well.
Amazing how many applications there can be for this. Don't be put off that they're fixing a guitar, there's good information in there.
 
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OK, this is what I did:
I bought 20 41mm LED's for my dome lights on eBay, because there's 8 needed for the dome lights, and that was the sweet spot on price. Besides, there's a S60 in the house.
Following SWISSXC90's excellent advice I purchased 1/4 watt resistors to fix in parallel with the LED's. beginning with 1k ohms, that work fine and are often the value given in other threads. I used 10k ohms, for no good reason other than to try something different.
When I received the LED's, I simply installed them as-is, and there was a significant glow emanating from them while driving. It wasn't a bother, but a little too much light during night time.
Because of the flat illumination source of the bulbs, it can be difficult finessing the bulbs alone into the correct orientation. So, the fix that will work without solder, and is a little more secure than trying to clamp them into the bulb holders.


Use small wire cutters to cut through the end cap as shown: One little 1/4" cut is all we need.
115969


Next, with the same tool, fold up one side of the cut bit:

115970


Prepare the resistors for mounting by bending back the excess wire as shown. The bent portion slides into one end cap and then is moved to center.

115971


When the resistor wires are in each end cap, hold the resistor with your thumb in the center and fold the wires back over the end caps.

115972


To finish, fold the lifted corner back down to pinch the wire in place. It's best to solder, and I found the material very easy to solder . When finished, cut the excess wire or fold it down. It won't be a problem to leave it, but cutting too close could have it come free.

115973


Don't forget that these things are polarity sensitive, so if the light doesn't work, flip it end-for-end.
 
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Discussion Starter #125
OK, this is what I did:
I bought 20 41mm LED's for my dome lights on eBay, because there's 8 needed for the dome lights, and that was the sweet spot on price. Besides, there's a S60 in the house.
Following SWISSXC90's excellent advice I purchased 1/4 watt resistors to fix in parallel with the LED's. beginning with 1k ohms, that work fine and are often the value given in other threads. I used 10k ohms, for no good reason other than to try something different.
When I received the LED's, I simply installed them as-is, and there was a significant glow emanating from them while driving. It wasn't a bother, but a little too much light during night time.
Because of the flat illumination source of the bulbs, it can be difficult finessing the bulbs alone into the correct orientation. So, the fix that will work without solder, and is a little more secure than trying to clamp them into the bulb holders.


Use small wire cutters to cut through the end cap as shown: One little 1/4" cut is all we need.
View attachment 115969

Next, with the same tool, fold up one side of the cut bit:

View attachment 115970

Prepare the resistors for mounting by bending back the excess wire as shown. The bent portion slides into one end cap and then is moved to center.

View attachment 115971

When the resistor wires are in each end cap, hold the resistor with your thumb in the center and fold the wires back over the end caps.

View attachment 115972

To finish, fold the lifted corner back down to pinch the wire in place. It's best to solder, and I found the material very easy to solder . When finished, cut the excess wire or fold it down. It won't be a problem to leave it, but cutting too close could have it come free.

View attachment 115973

Don't forget that these things are polarity sensitive, so if the light doesn't work, flip it end-for-end.
Excellent! Will be trying this very soon!

Thank you!!
 

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Discussion Starter #126 (Edited)
Anyone ever tried to upgrade their fog lights? I really dig the look, especially on bigger SUVs like the XC90. I see kits on RetroFitSource but I have no idea which is better, GTR Lighting or Morimoto.

Any thoughts?

And looks like RetroFitSource won't sell me this H9 LED conversion kit for the DRL bulbs (in between xenon and inner portion of headlight) since it's street illegal and not saleable: Shopping

Even if I'm using them as DRLs (or so as @Leto Atreides II correctly claims) it's illegal?
 

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Anyone ever tried to upgrade their fog lights? I really dig the look, especially on bigger SUVs like the XC90. I see kits on RetroFitSource but I have no idea which is better, GTR Lighting or Morimoto.

Any thoughts?

And looks like RetroFitSource won't sell me this H9 LED conversion kit for the DRL bulbs (in between xenon and inner portion of headlight) since it's street illegal and not saleable: Shopping

Even if I'm using them as DRLs (or so as @Leto Atreides II correctly claims) it's illegal?
Lots of people use fog lights as DRL but it's honestly a bad idea especially with higher off the ground vehicles. Not as bad with the XC90 since the fog lights are positioned quite low, but generally they have a tendency to blind opposing vehicles (particularly sedans). There's a reason you're not supposed to use fog lights unless visibility is super low. You can swap an LED bulb in there if you want (could be remembering wrong but I think it's just an H1 bulb), but it should still be treated as a fog light, not a DRL.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Lots of people use fog lights as DRL but it's honestly a bad idea especially with higher off the ground vehicles. Not as bad with the XC90 since the fog lights are positioned quite low, but generally they have a tendency to blind opposing vehicles (particularly sedans). There's a reason you're not supposed to use fog lights unless visibility is super low. You can swap an LED bulb in there if you want (could be remembering wrong but I think it's just an H1 bulb), but it should still be treated as a fog light, not a DRL.
Makes sense. Yeah, I'd only be using it in low-visibility situations. But also for photo ops:).

About the DRLs... they're H9 bulbs from factory I think... but the only issue is, I've never ever seen them turn on. Like never. So are they really DRLs? I'm talking about the light in between xenon and the inner portion of either side headlamp assembly.
 

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Makes sense. Yeah, I'd only be using it in low-visibility situations. But also for photo ops:).

About the DRLs... they're H9 bulbs from factory I think... but the only issue is, I've never ever seen them turn on. Like never. So are they really DRLs? I'm talking about the light in between xenon and the inner portion of either side headlamp assembly.
Ah, can't comment on that H9 bulb. My car came with basic halogens so I have no experience with the xenon assembly. If I'm remembering right, in my case, the headlamp assembly contains a low-beam (H11), high-beam (H7), indicator, and white and amber parking lights (194).

AFAIK, the Canadian model of the XC90 just had the low-beams active on all positions as a DRL.
 

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Makes sense. Yeah, I'd only be using it in low-visibility situations. But also for photo ops:).

About the DRLs... they're H9 bulbs from factory I think... but the only issue is, I've never ever seen them turn on. Like never. So are they really DRLs? I'm talking about the light in between xenon and the inner portion of either side headlamp assembly.
The only time they turn on is if you have your lights in the "off" position and it's still light outside. If your lights are "on" or if it's dark out then your xenon lights will come on. There might be a VIDA setting that entirely disables them. (I know there is on some models, but can't recall if it's there for the XC90...) I assume you haven't disabled them through VIDA.
 
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Discussion Starter #131
The only time they turn on is if you have your lights in the "off" position and it's still light outside. If your lights are "on" or if it's dark out then your xenon lights will come on. There might be a VIDA setting that entirely disables them. (I know there is on some models, but can't recall if it's there for the XC90...) I assume you haven't disabled them through VIDA.
That sounds about right. Let me try to turn them on and see if upgrading the bulb is really worth it or not. I really never have my lights in the off position.
 

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Just to let folks know that THESE eBay 36 mm festoon bulbs that fit the glove box and the footwell lights do not have the afterglow issue right out of the box. So far, I found only the three uses on my XC90. They arrived at 70 cents each.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Just to let folks know that THESE eBay 36 mm festoon bulbs that fit the glove box and the footwell lights do not have the afterglow issue right out of the box. So far, I found only the three uses on my XC90. They arrived at 70 cents each.
It looks like there are 36mm and 41mm festoon bulbs in the XC90, but if I remember correctly, I think that the front map lights are some sort of proprietary bulb or have some proprietary housing? I remember that there's some little quirk with the first-row lighting. As for the glove box, thank you for reminding me-I had completely forgotten that there's a bulb there.
 

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It looks like there are 36mm and 41mm festoon bulbs in the XC90, but if I remember correctly, I think that the front map lights are some sort of proprietary bulb or have some proprietary housing? I remember that there's some little quirk with the first-row lighting. As for the glove box, thank you for reminding me-I had completely forgotten that there's a bulb there.
My dome and reading lights are all 41 mm, as is the light in the back hatch lid. Both rear row dome/reading combo lights have a really delicate reflector over the bulbs that help direct light out of the reading lamp lens. I managed to get the reflectors off and on with considerable care. The reflector material is very thin. The 41's I used are the ones that I added the resistors to.
 
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Discussion Starter #135
Has anyone tried halo lights on their XC90? Like these: 2003-2008 Volvo XC90 ORACLE Halo Kit

I don't know if it'll look dumb on the XC90 but the way the halos look on other xenon cars with circle-heavy headlights (i.e. BMW M5 E39) is just awesome. Of course, I'd only be using white halos, not RGB/multicolored. Those are too much for me...
 

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Discussion Starter #136 (Edited)
So... nothing good comes with a side of bad, right?

Good: huge thanks to @Capndirk, I was able to re-insert the third row dome light housing and assembly and it all works. Rinsed and repeated for the second row dome light housing, and replaced its bulbs with LEDs as well.

Bad: As I was doing the front row (I think it's also known as the UEM - Upper Electronic Module, if I'm not mistaken...) light's which there's 4 of, I realized I was two bulbs short, so I ordered them. The bad part is, I tried to lock the car to make sure the lights turn off with the car locking, door closing, etc. etc. And now it turns out I can't use any of the buttons on my key fob??? I tried the second key, same thing.

I can start the car, use the key in the driver's side door handle keyhole, and all that works. It's just that the buttons don't work. But then a bunch of tries of pressing buttons later, right after pulling the key fob out of the door handle keyhole, the buttons seemed to work for like 3 seconds. Then nothing. Then a few mins later, I try again and the lock button works. It's really random and intermittent.

What I've done:
  • Checked key fob batteries, all good. Replaced batteries just cause I could, still no change.
  • Used second key fob, no change in results.
  • Removed new LEDs from the UEM (there's 4, I installed 2 since I was 2 short and left the 2 other spots light-less/blank), still no change.
  • Checked the sunroof, it works 100%.

What I haven't done:
- Removed the LED lights I installed in the second-row and third-row lights. But, I highly doubt this will stop the key fob's buttons from working improperly???

Yellow parking light button doesn't work, unlock doesn't work, neither does lock. Same with panic button and trunk opener button.

I wasn't rough/manhandling the UEM when taking the gray trim piece off of its face... what could it be?
 

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I'm thinking that you didn't remove the complete UEM with lights, mirror, bells, whistles. That really shouldn't cause problems unless the battery wasn't disconnected.
The user's manual warns against not using the transmitter inside the car, so that could happen with the thing in your pocket. Start, by disconnecting the battery, When in doubt; reboot
P.S.- You're welcome.
 
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I'm thinking that you didn't remove the complete UEM with lights, mirror, bells, whistles. That really shouldn't cause problems unless the battery wasn't disconnected.
The user's manual warns against not using the transmitter inside the car, so that could happen with the thing in your pocket. Start, by disconnecting the battery, When in doubt; reboot
P.S.- You're welcome.
Was thinking of doing one of those "disconnect battery for 5 mins" resets, I'll try that later today.

I didn't even remove the UEM, I just took the faceplate/trim cover off of it. Here's a few photos of what I did: 5 new photos by Shudhant Gautam
 

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