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Discussion Starter #1
So I've been looking at replacing the crappy incandescent bulbs in the license plate lights and interior dome lights for quite some time now. From what I can tell, the new LED color temperature gives the car a much more modern look. Have already ordered LED rear turn signal lights and reverse lights.

Here's what I've found is the Sylvania-recommended bulb for the interior dome lights AND license plate lights–looks like the same bulb goes in the both applications: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A77UA5U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_25?smid=A2EJCTH67GJMT3&psc=1

However, many have said that their interior dome lights don't turn off when they use this LED (and every other 6418 36mm LED) bulb because the CEM doesn't turn off in the car for about 10 mins after key is removed. I see this as a pretty big problem for me and is the one and only thing holding me back from making the switch to LEDs. Looks like this issue doesn't affect license plate lights, however (can someone confirm?).

TL;DR: So, I'm asking you all what LED bulb will work for the interior dome lights that is NOT affected by the residual voltage coming from the CEM after car is off?

Car in context: 2008 XC90 V8 AWD Executive (lite).
 

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personally I love incandescent light.... the quality of the lighting is just not there with LEDs.. I begrudgingly replaced some around the house with CRI 90+ LEDs but I still don't like how my skin look under LEDs so in the xc90 is actually when I feel most human surrounded by incandescent lighting like the good old days!
 

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I replaced all my internals with LEDs they are just like normal in operation key is to get canbus versions the 94type pretty common but the bayonet type length is key.
your mileage may vary.
Stay well.
I should add mine light up like sunlight when lit, you can get a different degree in colour to get just right light for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I replaced all my internals with LEDs they are just like normal in operation key is to get canbus versions the 94type pretty common but the bayonet type length is key.
your mileage may vary.
Stay well.
I should add mine light up like sunlight when lit, you can get a different degree in colour to get just right light for you.
Great, thanks. And no issues with light staying residually-on after the car shuts off? And these look like 3 different bulbs, so are they all in 3 different usages around the car? Just want to do dome and map lights at the moment. And you've linked 31/39mm bulbs, Sylvania says interior dome lights use 36mm Festoon-type bulbs, can anyone confirm which size?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
personally I love incandescent light.... the quality of the lighting is just not there with LEDs.. I begrudgingly replaced some around the house with CRI 90+ LEDs but I still don't like how my skin look under LEDs so in the xc90 is actually when I feel most human surrounded by incandescent lighting like the good old days!
I'm split down the middle with LED vs incandescent, too. Just want to try one and see if it grows on me, if not I'll just return it.
 

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TL;DR: So, I'm asking you all what LED bulb will work for the interior dome lights that is NOT affected by the residual voltage coming from the CEM after car is off?
I ordered bulbs from Amazon that were advertised as Canbus compliant. As others have said, they're extremely bright. The interior of the car at night is brighter than in full sunlight.

As you have noted, the lights do not fully shut off when the car is running. They're not providing enough light to illuminate the car, but if you look into the lens you can see a bit of a glow.

I have not noticed the license plate lights doing the same thing.

The interior lights do go fully off when the ignition is off - I have checked when the car is parked and no issues with drain on the battery. This is in a 2004 V70.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I ordered bulbs from Amazon that were advertised as Canbus compliant. As others have said, they're extremely bright. The interior of the car at night is brighter than in full sunlight.

As you have noted, the lights do not fully shut off when the car is running. They're not providing enough light to illuminate the car, but if you look into the lens you can see a bit of a glow.

I have not noticed the license plate lights doing the same thing.

The interior lights do go fully off when the ignition is off - I have checked when the car is parked and no issues with drain on the battery. This is in a 2004 V70.
Interesting. Our observations check out with one another, that's good. Do you mind sending me the link to what bulb you ordered? And just to confirm, you're saying that the bulbs you got from Amazon do NOT remain on/have a little glow, correct?
 

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Interesting. Our observations check out with one another, that's good. Do you mind sending me the link to what bulb you ordered? And just to confirm, you're saying that the bulbs you got from Amazon do NOT remain on/have a little glow, correct?
No, they do glow while the car is running. Not bright enough to be distracting or actually illuminate anything. When they're lit they're brilliant, almost too bright.It's like a hospital operating theatre bright.


 

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Great, thanks. And no issues with light staying residually-on after the car shuts off? And these look like 3 different bulbs, so are they all in 3 different usages around the car? Just want to do dome and map lights at the moment. And you've linked 31/39mm bulbs, Sylvania says interior dome lights use 36mm Festoon-type bulbs, can anyone confirm which size?
I remember having to make some adjustments there were a few had to expand and a few had to bring closer
Also got these if I get a chance I will look see where I used what. I used where. tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, they do glow while the car is running. Not bright enough to be distracting or actually illuminate anything. When they're lit they're brilliant, almost too bright.It's like a hospital operating theatre bright.


Ah ok, so they glow while car is on, and don't glow when car is off. That may be a tipping point for me, I'll have to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Discussion Starter #12
So looks like this bulb is the license plate lights and trunk light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A77TM0Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2EJCTH67GJMT3&psc=1

And this bulb is the courtesy light (which I'm assuming is the puddle lights on the bottom of the doors): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J5JKNN4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2EJCTH67GJMT3&psc=1

And this bulb is for the dome lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QB6QFN4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3RND54X0X6PMP&psc=1

Has anyone had to use a load equalizer on any of the light applications above (trunk, dome lights, license plate, or courtesy lights) in order to fix/avoid bulb-out warnings or hyper flashing from the LED bulb?
 

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I just inserted some resistors in parallel with the LED bulbs. IIRC it was 50k ish or 100k ish after 3 or 4 in parallel. I used whatever I had lying around from a project in a big bag. It also fixed the VIDA bulb out error message.
 

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The “canbus compliant” phrase is utter marketing bull****. The reason the LEDs glow a bit when off is because the switching of the LEDs is done electronically and designed for resistive loads (with incandescent bulbs). LEDs offer a much smaller load and thus some transistor switches have enough leakage current that the LED glows dimly.

Simply add a resistor in parallel to give it some resistive load and the problem is solved. About 1kohm is often all you need.

PS: there is no canbus on the LED. There is no canbus on the light. There may be a bulb monitoring circuit.or may not. It is the electronic switching of the bulb that causes the issue.


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Discussion Starter #16
I just inserted some resistors in parallel with the LED bulbs. IIRC it was 50k ish or 100k ish after 3 or 4 in parallel. I used whatever I had lying around from a project in a big bag. It also fixed the VIDA bulb out error message.
Got it, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The “canbus compliant” phrase is utter marketing bull****. The reason the LEDs glow a bit when off is because the switching of the LEDs is done electronically and designed for resistive loads (with incandescent bulbs). LEDs offer a much smaller load and thus some transistor switches have enough leakage current that the LED glows dimly.

Simply add a resistor in parallel to give it some resistive load and the problem is solved. About 1kohm is often all you need.

PS: there is no canbus on the LED. There is no canbus on the light. There may be a bulb monitoring circuit.or may not. It is the electronic switching of the bulb that causes the issue.


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That's what I've been thinking this whole time, my father and I both found it odd that Volvo decided to use CANbus to toggle dome lights. Thanks for the detailed explanation.

In order to add the resistor: do I have to splice the source wires that go into the dome light? How does the wiring look like?
 

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That's what I've been thinking this whole time, my father and I both found it odd that Volvo decided to use CANbus to toggle dome lights. Thanks for the detailed explanation.

In order to add the resistor: do I have to splice the source wires that go into the dome light? How does the wiring look like?
Before going to that trouble, I suggest installing the lights and seeing what you think. For me it's a non-issue.

I agree that calling something canbus compliant can be marketing BS.

However, on my BMW motorcycle I found a LED lamp advertised as canbus compliant could be used in a location where other owners were getting bulb out warnings with other LED. So in some instances, there really is a difference.

That LED bulb was from www.superbrightleds.com. I would have ordered my interior lights from them, but I'm in Canada and can no longer cross the border to pick up mail.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Before going to that trouble, I suggest installing the lights and seeing what you think. For me it's a non-issue.

I agree that calling something canbus compliant can be marketing BS.

However, on my BMW motorcycle I found a LED lamp advertised as canbus compliant could be used in a location where other owners were getting bulb out warnings with other LED. So in some instances, there really is a difference.

That LED bulb was from www.superbrightleds.com. I would have ordered my interior lights from them, but I'm in Canada and can no longer cross the border to pick up mail.
Right, I agree. Things like headlights and taillights that are CANbus-looped is where those "CANbus Error-Free" lights come in handy.

I'll try to install the map and dome lights as LEDs and see how bad I'm bothered. Some have reported using a 1K ohm resistor in parallel and that has seemed to solve the glow problem. Will report back findings later.
 

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OK, call me ignorant, but, what's the point of all this? Is it so you can say I have LED bulbs everywhere? Other than possibly better bulbs for the headlights, it seems to be a lot of gyrations to go through for naught.
 
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