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Are the Michelin also the same 235/40 size?
 

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98 S70 Base, 06 S40 T5 M66 FWD, 08 C70 M66, 11 XC90 V8, 13 C70 P*
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Are the Michelin also the same 235/40 size?
I was going to ask the same. I ran these on both my ‘04 and the ‘11 and never had this issue.
 

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2004 S60R M66 - daily driver; 2008 XC90 V8 - 70k miles
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Yep, the new Michelins are also 235/40/R18, I checked the tires myself just now in the garage.
 

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I had that issue on my 04, it actually left marks on the wheel wells. my 05 has never done that. I just assumed it may be related to an alignment issue or the tire size. I wouldn't sweat it too much, it's not great to be at full lock anyway.

For your clear coat issues: wet sand everything with 600 grit, then do a wetsand at 800 grit, wash everything very well with Dawn dish soap, rinse and dry it and then spray your new clear. It will hold better that way. Anything north of 1000 grit will not give the new clear enough to grab onto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I'm scheduled for an alignment tomorrow afternoon, I'll report back whether or not the problem has been resolved.

Thanks for the clear coat tips!
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Alignment happened, the tech was saying the rear wheels have a ton of camber due to the IPD lowering springs the PO put on, but they can't do anything about it since there's no adjustment in the rear on the R's apparently.

Tire rubbing still happens. I was told by someone to check if my steering stops are still in place. Does anyone have a pic of what they look like so I know what to look for under the car?

I'll be doing a full brake job, reverse clutch bleed, power steering reservoir upgrade, brake bleed, and oil change this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I know what to look for in terms of steering stops. I also found these iPD camber bushings for the rear, but I don't have the bushing press tool to do it myself, so I was wondering if I got the tool, how hard is it?

And today I was having a little spirited drive on the back roads in my area and heard this weird grinding noise coming from the right or left (depending on where you're turning) side of the car, it sounds like the front as well. It sounds like metal scraping against metal, but you can hear it in this video coming from the right side of the car as I turn the wheel left and follow the road, at slightly faster than normal speeds: New video by Shudhant Gautam

It sounds more like the tires rubbing against the fender liner but I'd like to confirm that it is the tires. If this is the tires, I'm really going to lean towards raising the car back to stock height. What a nightmare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Did full brake rotors + pads on Tuesday. Brakes feel MUCH better now, but I notice that there's a slight "clicking" feel in the pedal when I press the pedal really hard. I pressed it hard to bed in the pads earlier today on my test drive.

I also noticed, when trying to take off the airbox (which was unsuccessful, I'm not sure how to take it off) to find the clutch bleeder screw, that this weird piping under the airbox that leads from the air intake adjacent to the driver's side fog light is falling apart, see images: 3 new items by Shudhant Gautam

This is taken from above the airbox. The pipe leads up from the air hole next to the driver's side fog light up to the bottom of the airbox. The pipe is a black cloth with a white thread spiraling around it. I'm not even sure if that pipe is stock, it seems way too flimsy and hackjob-like to be a Volvo part. Regardless, I need to replace it. Anyone have a P/N??
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Thought I'd give this thread an update: the caR has virtually no problems now, but I did notice some slight wetness at the bottom of the passenger rear 4C strut (see image: New item by Shudhant Gautam). Does this mean I need to replace my rear struts? The front 4C shocks were done by the previous owner at 101k miles. The car is now at 114k. I assume that this means the rears are going out now. The car suffers from significant suspension hop/rear end side-to-side sway when going over bumps, which apparently is a known problem that becomes worse when combined with lowering springs.

That brings me to my next point: the car's stance. The rear two wheels have like -1.5º of camber and I don't want to spend nearly a thousand on new tires every 8-10k miles, especially given this is a daily driver for me. That being said, I can either purchase original springs for the car and raise it back up, or can get the iPd camber bushings. What would you all recommend?

In terms of the interior, I think I will remove the center console and just spray paint it over with black paint. Someone in this thread earlier recommended one paint to me...

The only remaining issue is the suspension and this random clunk that comes from the car (can't tell where) when starting to move forward. It's quite odd but I've accepted the fact that it's just going to exist in a 17-year-old S60R.

Oil change, dashcam and radar detector, new manual transmission fluid, and a good interior/exterior detail are next up for the caR. Happy Holidays, everyone!

EDIT: I found the headlamp bulb retainer!!! 8678123 - Volvo Headlight Adjusting Spring (Left, Right). R.H.T EXC (US) | Jim Fisher Volvo Cars, Portland OR
 

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You will probably need camber bushings even if you change the springs. Volvo recommends replacing the springs for the R when putting new shocks in. I have the camber bushings but dreading putting them in:

You can get new 4C for the rear but I would look at aftermarket myself next time.

I had a similar clunk which ended up being the transmission mount under the car or on the engine mount above in the rear drivers side. Poly options are available.

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Looks like you have the airbox mod that is on this forum. RKelly mod maybe? A pipe is added to the bottom of the airbox and routed to behind the driver fog.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
 

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Catching up, so after a full brake job you probably did it, but if not: The parking brake replacement isn't awful. I'd do it before what's in there completely falls apart and destroys stuff.
Your hardest fight will be removing the rotor without damaging it (I replaced mine so several BFH whacks did it) and contending with the RPB springs. Those suck, but watching a video and taking your time it's not the end of the world.
Also, my parking brake sticks when disengaging it (I have to move the car for it to then "BANG" back into its resting position) and I need to pull it up really quite high for it to keep the car from moving. Is it time for a parking brake cable adjustment (with the small nut at the handbrake) and also a shoe replacement? I was hoping I could wait till the rotors and pads (which are nearly ready to be replaced) are ready to go before I get new handbrake shoes, but I guess not...
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
You will probably need camber bushings even if you change the springs. Volvo recommends replacing the springs for the R when putting new shocks in. I have the camber bushings but dreading putting them in:

You can get new 4C for the rear but I would look at aftermarket myself next time.

I had a similar clunk which ended up being the transmission mount under the car or on the engine mount above in the rear drivers side. Poly options are available.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
I did see that video but unfortunately I don't have the camber/alignment plate and tool set that he uses to check his alignment before and after the install of the bushings.

You say I need camber bushings even if I go back to stock springs? I meant change the iPd lowering springs to normal stock 04 S60R Volvo springs, not another set of lowering springs, BTW.

I definitely don't want to lose the 4C settings, I really love that whole thing. Plus my front 4C struts only have about 13k miles on them so it wouldn't make sense for me to scrap them as well, and go for something aftermarket like coilovers. Are coilovers what you're referring to?

The PO just swapped in a new transmission mount, I'll check the condition of it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Looks like you have the airbox mod that is on this forum. RKelly mod maybe? A pipe is added to the bottom of the airbox and routed to behind the driver fog.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
Yes, it's the snow valve cold air intake mod. The pipe the original owner used for it was absolutely falling apart so I cleaned it up and put a hose clamp on it, and it's much better now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Catching up, so after a full brake job you probably did it, but if not: The parking brake replacement isn't awful. I'd do it before what's in there completely falls apart and destroys stuff.
Your hardest fight will be removing the rotor without damaging it (I replaced mine so several BFH whacks did it) and contending with the RPB springs. Those suck, but watching a video and taking your time it's not the end of the world.
I did do the parking brake replacement. Issue is the driver's side parking brake cable was too short. The little block that pushes the shoes out upon the retraction of the brake cable, as a result of the shortened cable, was not able to fully return to its resting position. This, in turn, didn't let the shoes fully retract in to the wheel hub, and therefore, made it impossible for me to slap the new rotor back on. And you are right, the springs are pretty bad to deal with, but I bought a set of new springs and rotors.

TL, DR: driver's side handbrake cable was too short, so I removed the driver's side handbrake shoes/springs, etc. altogether. I now only have a passenger-side handbrake.
 
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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)

Portland's winter mornings have been making me miss my driver's side heated seat a whole lot more. These images show the driver's seat underneath and looking up from underneath. It looks like the foam has shredded off and there are a bunch of small metal wires that are poking out from the shredded yellow foam. What does this mean? Is this normal? How do I get my heated seat back?

Would a VIDA scan reveal a damaged driver's side heated seat module? I would do a scan but my VIDA2Go SSD has decided to temporarily stop working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Okay I guess nobody has anything on the heated seat issue, but I ordered one of these to see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, oh well--only $12 down the drain.

Another question I have: I recently found out that the "ECM is chipped" according to one of the previous service records from Barrier Volvo, a dealership up in Bellevue, WA. Here's what the service record's comments said, the record was for replacing a fuel pressure sensor: CS car stutters between 3rd and 5th gears, dies at idle, CEL on, "did not update ECM car is chipped".

I also took it to a local Volvo specialist a few months back for an inspection and once flooring it in third gear, he asked me, "Is this thing tuned?" I said "Yeah, it said the ECM is chipped." I assume it's a Stage 1 and for my cylinder walls' sake, I hope it's just a stage 1 tune.

I am at 114k miles now and I don't know if the walls have been shimmed, there's no record of that having been done in the service records of the car. But then again, neither were the iPd lowering springs. I want to err on the safer side and get rid of the stage 1 tune to bring it back to stock. Maybe get a burble tune while I'm at it (unless they damage the car somehow, please let me know if they do).

How do I go about doing this? Better yet, how do I confirm that one of the previous owners after the original owner (who chipped it) didn't already revert it back to stage 0/stock? I seriously don't want to shim the walls (no time, $, etc.) and don't care about how fast the car is.
 

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I did see that video but unfortunately I don't have the camber/alignment plate and tool set that he uses to check his alignment before and after the install of the bushings.

You say I need camber bushings even if I go back to stock springs? I meant change the iPd lowering springs to normal stock 04 S60R Volvo springs, not another set of lowering springs, BTW.
Are coilovers what you're referring to?
I already got an alignment that told me the camber was out 1.5 degrees on each side. I plan to replace the bushings and go back for another alignment. Dealer quoted me over $2k to replace the bushings. I believe I have stock springs but not 100%.

Yes, Bilstein makes some coilovers that fit according to this forum.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I bought Genuine Volvo rear 4C struts and all-around original/factory/stock height springs, as well as one aftermarket parking brake cable, strut bolts, strut mounts, control arm stops, and a fuel pump (for $110 off eBay, it was ProPartsSweden). BTW, I got the 2 Genuine Volvo rear 4C struts for $660 total from Tasca Parts, and they were at my doorstep within 5 days. MUCH better than FCPEuro, but no lifetime guarantee.

I will be installing the new fuel pump this weekend to fix the slow fuel drip/leak issue. Thanks to this awesome video I found on YT, I have confidence/faith:

For those of you wondering why I got 4 original springs: so that I can raise the car back up to stock height. I didn't find it financially viable to keep ruining rear sets of tires and then having to replace all 4 because it's an AWD, nor replacing the rear bushings with iPd's camber bushings (see quote above from dealership on djunglew's post). So I'm sacrificing the looks and slight gain in performance for reliability and hopefully, no more tire rubbing please.

I also got my VIDA2Go unit back from repair today and I did a VIDA readout, here's what it spit out:
Rectangle Purple Font Circle Water

Ignore CEM-1A59 (I put in a DDIN radio unit), CEM-3A03 (that's from when I removed the fuel pump fuse to replace the injectors), and CEM-1D04 (the car has been chipped, can I remove the tune and go to stock myself, or do I have to take it to the dealer?). The rest are valid concerns for me.

CCM-0007 Passenger compartment temperature sensor faulty signal: Is this just as simple as a replacement of that little dust-collecting vacuum thing that's on the CCM? Please let me know and I can order this part.

ECM-6814 Turbo control - Signal too low: See image below for more details on this DTC, what could this be for? A dying TCV?
Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Software


CEM-5B01 Left heater pad faulty signal: I got a used but working SHM (Seat Heating Module) hoping it would work, I still have to install it and see if it solves the problem. But this almost confirms that it won't, since I didn't get a new seat heater pad. Does anyone know if it's possible to replace the driver's side seat heater pad by yourself at home? How difficult is it?

ECM-531D Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) CEM Signal missing: What is this for? As far as I can tell, all the lights on the dashboard work... CEL light, warning triangle, DIM, etc. all works.

Sorry for the long post, there's a pretty sizeable amount of work ahead of me (especially with the rear struts and all-around springs) that I'm a little nervous about. I've never done struts and springs before, but I got a good quality MacPherson strut compressor tool from Amazon for about $45 with excellent reviews. I didn't get a cheap Chinese one.

Thanks all, and stay safe!
 

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If first scan in a while - always clear all dtc's then drive for few days. the codes that return are what you want to get sorted.

Its been a while but I think 6814 points to the vacuum / turbo pressure sensor above upper IC pipe on rt side whatever its called. Cheap part to replace (did that one and TCV) but for me it was vacuum leak.

If / when you have air filter housing / ote pipe etc removed - then check the T shaped hose under there with the two check valves that connects to intake manifold
Light Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exhaust
 
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