SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I bought my 05 V70R last week, it was the one posted here on SS that was in Park City Utah. It was a 2 owner, that had (within the last 16K miles) all 4 struts replaced as well as the angle gear service.

I have had an 850 for a while and an XC90 for almost 4 years and I've done about 90% of all the work on them. But the R is a whole different animal, especially since the XC is an FWD and I am new to HALDEX.

The warranty is through my credit union (the company is Route 66) and is fairly comprehensive. I noticed that struts are NOT covered as they are usually considered normal wear and tear items, but I need to call as some companies do cover if they are adjustable.

THE DETAILS - $2800 for 4 years or 48K miles - Credit union will add to loan and I would just add $60/month to the payment, but for $700 a year it seems like a decent deal. And I already know I need at least one wheel bearing, possibly two. I thought on the test drive the hummmmmmm was from the snow tires... nope :(

Has anyone had experience with Route 66? I will not mod this car other then IPD mount upgrades, but no real tuning intended, I drive easy (I averaged 28.6 MPG on the 100 mile mountain/highway drive home). I am planning to do routine maintenance, but wanting to protect against $750+ surprises. Is this a good idea?

Below is the text from the brochure:

AIR CONDITIONING
Compressor, clutch and coil assembly, evaporator, accumulator and condenser; if factory installed. Evacuation and recharge.
STEERING
Power steering pump, steering gear housing and its internal parts and rack and pinion assembly.
BRAKES
Master cylinder, ABS master cylinder, vacuum booster, wheel cylinders, disc brake calipers, hydraulic lines and fittings.
COOLING
Radiator, fan clutch, water pump, cooling fan motor. Water Pump
ENGINE
Timing chain, belt tensioner & guides, intake manifold, cylinder head gaskets, valve lash adjusters, pickup screen & tube, valve guides, valve spring locks & retainers, harmonic balancer. Crankshaft & bearings, oil pump, oil pump pickup/screen and tube, pistons, rings, wrist pins, connecting rods & bearings, timing gears, chain/belt, timing tensioners/guides, camshaft, bearings, push rods, rocker arms/shaft, hydraulic lifters, intake and exhaust valves and springs, cylinder head gaskets. Engine block covered if mechanical failure was caused by above-listed parts.
FUEL DELIVERY
Fuel pump, fuel tank, fuel injectors, metal fuel lines, fuel sending unit.
FRONT SUSPENSION*
Upper/lower control arms, upper/lower ball joints, steering knuckle, wheel bearings, control arm shaft and bushings. *Vehicles under 85,000 miles at contract purchase.
ELECTRICAL
Battery, voltage regulator, alternator, front/rear wiper motors and module, window motors, cooling fan motor, electric fuel pump, ignition module and coils, engine operation computer, distributor, starter, starter solenoid, seat motors, door lock actuators, manually operated switches for above-listed parts. Alternator, Starter and Voltage Regulator
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Chain, drum assembly, solenoids, bushings, accumulator, clutches, bands, servos, parking pawl, speedometer gear, transmission cooler, pistons. Internal transmission parts consisting of gears, input and output shafts, bearings, front pump, planetary assembly, sprags, governor assembly, valve body, torque converter, transmission case.
DRIVE AXLE ASSEMBLY
2-Wheel Drive:
Drive shaft, ring/pinion gears, pinion bearings, side carrier bearings, carrier assembly, thrust washers, axle, axle bearings, limited slip clutch pack assembly, universal joints, CV joints*, drive axle housing.
4-WHEEL / ALL-WHEEL DRIVE:
Drive shaft, differential & CV joints*, transfer case parts listed on contract.
*Except if boot was damaged or missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,758 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks ions,
I did see the e90post forum, but didn't see the bimmerfest one.

Hoping someone on SS will have used them. What is assuring is they've been around since 1987 mad don't have a ton of negative reviews...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
Don't know about them in particular, but about "warranties" in general.

Think of them as insurance. If you can work on the car yourself, or can handle the price of having something bad fixed yourself, then they are NOT a good deal. If you are buying the car to be a daily driver, and you need the peace of mind that you won't have near as much to pay for if a bad thing happens, then by all means, get it.

The thing is, those companies are basically betting you that you will not have a failure and you are betting you will have a failure of something that will cost more than their warranty will. They are in business to make money, so they know the chances are something is not going to fail... but if it does, it's going to cost a lot.

Again, this is one of those "you gotta make that call for yourself" things. Honestly, wheel bearings (rear ones anyway) are a pretty simple job that can be done with just hand tools in the drive in an afternoon. The biggest issue you have with them seems to be planning ahead for replacing the parking brake shoes at the same time.

Ours was going to be almost $4k for our R... I politely declined. (reason: I have no problem tackling mechanical issues, and my R doesn't have to be my daily driver) If you are not so inclined, these policies (sorry, I think of it as health insurance, not "warranty"... ) are a good thing... and again, you are doing the right thing, shop for a good one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,758 Posts
I will say the extended warranty I bought was a waste, it was $2000 for 38 months or 35k miles and within that time period my car was flawless and I never had to use it, until the warranty was up is when the **** started to hit the fan and I was out $2000 with nothing to show for it.

I'd say get it inspected before you buy it, figure out what needs to be fixed right away then call and ask if its covered before buying said car and "warranty"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I think I am going to go for it. I called the warranty company and asked a few specific questions, namely:

Q. Can I still do all my own routine maintenance and have the warranty (insurance ;)) be intact?
A. Yes, but keep receipts and log what you do (I already do that anyway)

Q. Are the shocks covered if the "adjustability" fails on them?
A. No, it was a long shot but worth a try

Q. With no waiting period, can I sign up today and then bring it in for a check up tomorrow?
A. Not really, if you bring it in and a ball joint is failed that would be a pre-existing condition (great now we are going to need auto health care reform) as a ball joint doesn't fail overnight, but things certainly can fail overnight like electrical components/

Q. (follow up) So if the something starts acting up in a few weeks/month is that still pre existing?
A. No, but what we (route 66) see is mechanics sending a laundry list of repairs the day after the policy goes into effect and those would have been pre-existing.

Q. Do you cover diagnosis fees?
A. No

Q. Rental car details?
A. for every 4 hours of a billable job you get one day of free rental car.

I also then called the local indy Volvo specialist and they have actually done repairs through route 66 which was nice to know. They said they are pretty good and pay all except diagnostic fees and shop supplies... I asked for an example, he said a guy had a BWM repaired a week or so ago that tallied a $1300 bill with 3 window regulators going out and various electrical problems, of the 1300 the guy had to pay $180 for diagnosis and shop fees. Still not a bad deal as the $1120 would have covered about 40% of my warranty cost on one visit.

I will be sure to keep updating this on how is goes, I am hoping to be able give a positive review on this, since that'll mean I saved money :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So first update came a few weeks ago, I was getting some vibrations a various speeds, I was worried that it was a wheel bearing and brought it in to have it checked out. Turned out to be the INSIDE of the Passenger CV axle was worn. I've never had it be the inside before. One of the provisions of the warranty is that CV's are covered unless the boot is torn or missing, and luckily it was still intact. Warranty company paid $422.19 (all but tax and diagnosis time) leaving me with about $70 to pay.

So for the first use it went smooth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Hi!
I'm reviving this thread in hopes to get some feedback on the experience with Route 66.
We just picked up a v70r with 67k miles and I was considering the same warranty, also offered through my credit union.
Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,608 Posts
Hi!
I'm reviving this thread in hopes to get some feedback on the experience with Route 66.
We just picked up a v70r with 67k miles and I was considering the same warranty, also offered through my credit union.
Thank you.
Make sure they cover $$ items. Like the clutch (if it has one), struts, angle gear, and engine block (better safe than sorry)...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,295 Posts
we have it on our XC90 V8 and my buddy has it on his R and its totally worth it IMO on the R. under 85k miles they cover the front suspension:
FRONT SUSPENSION*
Upper/lower control arms, upper/lower ball joints, steering knuckle, wheel bearings, control arm shaft and bushings. *Vehicles under 85,000 miles at contract purchase.

they cover the AWD system, he had a reseal done and DEM/pump replaced under the warranty. the clutch/slave are not covered, the struts are not covered. when his timing belt tensioner was starting to make noise they paid for the whole timing belt job. his car was also tuned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OP here,
I had an overall good experience with them, only negative was that When I had to have my wheel bearing replaced on the R only front bearings are covered, and it was the rear that was bad... I sold the car (http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?197631-FS-in-NOVEMBER-2005-V70R-Titanium-Nordkap-88-5K-great-service-history-transferable-warranty) and cancelled the warranty since the new owner did not want it, and I got back a prorated amount less any work that had been done, I think it was around $1,500 they returned to me. And that went smooth too.

All in all they were a good company to work with and I think if I could do it again I would, the XC90 or a regular V70 I might be torn on value, but an R for sure, especially since yours is so low mileage which means they'll cover more things. Like MN-TURBOR said, vehicles under 85K at time of purchase, so the extra coverage continues past 85K, I bought mine with 81K and got the more comprehensive coverage as well.

If you plan to keep it 4 yrs/50K you will almost definitely have $2,500 worth of repairs sneak up on you.

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,062 Posts
How strange that rear wheel bearings are exempt but the front ones are not, I have to wonder what their reasoning is for that besides just less things to be on the hook for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Thankful for the feedback.
I'm getting it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
Just another note on Route 66. I have it on my BMW 335i that I was able to get for $2k for 5 years, up to 100k miles. I bought the car in mid-2012 with about 50k miles (warranty started in mid-2013 after the CPO warranty expired). The way I use the car, 50k and 5 year would about be equivalent, so it seems like a good deal. I figured between the water pump failures and random other stuff, it would pay for itself.

The only thing I would say to look out for is the following (besides exactly what they cover based on your mileage/plan):

1. They do not pay diagnostic fees, which can be expensive at dealerships.
2. They may not pay the full hourly rate at dealerships in expensive areas. In Boston, the BMW dealer charges $140/hr for labor, and that is above what Route 66 is willing to pay. So when I had my thermostat replaced, I ended up with with a small amount out of pocket for labor "excess", but it wasn't too bad. In lower cost areas or at independents, probably not an issue.

Side notes:
A. I don't have first hand experience, but if you take your car to an independent, it is possible that the warranty company could force them to use aftermarket/inferior parts (some warranty companies I am sure would do that). At least at the BMW dealer, they have to use OEM... I am not sure if Route 66 would insist on low quality/cheap parts... anyone know?

B. The warranty company is not strictly open to take claims on the weekends, so don't expect to bring your car in Saturday morning and get it back in the afternoon. They in theory have someone checking the answering machine and returning calls on Saturday, but that was not successful when I had the thermostat done.

I haven't gotten the full value on my warranty yet, but I still have about 2 years and 20k miles to get there.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top