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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just thought I would post an update to my little exhaust manifold problem. What started out as a little ticking sound coming from the engine bay when I bought the car in November became what sounded like a cracked manifold on an old dodge pickup by mid December which led me to replacing the manifold gasket on new years eve because I had a 3 day weekend and knew if I ran into problems I could take my time. I ordered a Victor Reinz Manifold gasket from AutoZone and it was delivered to the house for $17 that and a couple of bolts I had lying around were the only things I replaced. In total it took me 14 hours in 1 day from start to finish with couple of breaks for food and a couple beers and she was ready to go for the nights festivities.
 

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Good work. I ordered the gasket a few months ago but I've been putting it off since it seems like a ****ty job.

What did you need to remove besides the intake & IC hoses (looks like there's an oil line in that bottom pic)? Was any part of the install particularly challenging? Any tips?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had no problem with the manifold, Only difficult parts on the manifold itself was working in reverse with the hair mirror
( definitely saved my butt) and making sure you take the intake pipe off the turbo to get to the 2 odd bolts behind it ( I was lucky enough to use a snapon 1/4 technicians wrench to take the hardware off after breaking the free) all but 3 nuts came off with stud but that was just enough left to make fitting the gasket and manifold back on a breeze. I started by zip wheeling the rusted bolts on the 2 bolt exhaust flange underneath the car ( I live in NY and there was no heads left on the hardware, I did have to drill out the the pieces left in the flange but just replaced the bolts with 3/8" i had laying around). Since I have the AWD version I took off the oil and coolant lines from the turbo, coolant lines are easier, the oil hard lines snagged me up. The coolant line on the bottom requires a torx bit , I also used a wobble extension for the one by the block. The hardlines require a thin wall socket to fit near the turbo housing on the top and to get the fitting off the block I took off the passenger side wheel and used to extensions and 2 wobbles to get at the bolts from behind and above the axle ( the tire removal was just so I could see what I was doing). Putting it all back together only took 2 hours most of the time was spent figuring out what was holding me up and the best way to get at things ( at one point i was kneeling on the engine with my feet over the side to get the lower clamp on the turbo inlet hose off :) its funny cuase I'm 6'1 and 210
 

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Dude I'm 6'1 and 200 and I was absolutely floored that I could barely reach the heatshield while standing on the side of the car. I went down to change the turbo oil supply line at the block, and I could't reach it from the top. It's amazing how tall these things are.
 

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Well done! You are very fortunate, when I attempted mine I encountered a snapped stud (swear it was already snapped). Off to the Indy Import specialist for head removal and helicoil ($2200). Very happy I had negotiated the possibility into the purchase price of my s40, courtesy of some pre-purchase research on swedespeed and some calls to Volvo mechanics. I can't seem to find the thread at the moment, but I know I'm not the only one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I bought mine for 4K in November with 129K miles on it, the person had it listed for 6K but after I found out about the exhaust manifold and the what I thought at the time was an oil pan leak, which turned out to be a oil cooler housing leak
, I talked them all the way down to 4K cash. So in actual fixes have $17 for the exhaust manifold gasket, and I paid $75 for an all metal oil cooler, $25 for the oil cooler o rings from Best Volvo here in Rochester, Oil & filter since I had to drain it any way $35 and fresh coolant for the coolant flush (again had to do it anyway) $30. Total $182 on necessary fix items but probably 18hrs if labor would be $1,400 if I didn't do it myself almost forgot the new autolite iridium plugs and running my own miracle oil through the engine before the oil cooler change ( got rid of a lot of junk in the engine). With the money I have saved I put in a Injen intake $250 which sounds amazing :) woosh, turbo whistle !!, and I made a custom electric exhaust cut-out right before he muffler that makes it sound like a mini viper when I want to have fun but doesn't attract attention when I don't want it whole project $160
I don't have a picture of the switch mounted right next to the cigarette lighter socket in center console but it looks factory, Thinking of creating a thread with my before and after sound videos . My next project is to rebuild the rear diff and replace the haldex fluid and pump.
 

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Whoa, a lot of work to swap the gasket... Only took me about two hours. I just just undid the bolts, slit the old gasket straight out, slid the new gasket straight in, and haven't had any leaks since.



 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
MyNameIdeasWereTaken, nice to have a post reply from you actually watched your youtube videos and the sound of your car is what made me do my exhuast cut-out, I would say also my Injen but I had those on my last two cars :). If I am correct you did it on a Fwd ? the Awd has no room at all to move the downpipe back far enough to get the manifold off the studs that were stuck in the block. If all the studs came out I could have done it in probably 2-3 hours myself) After I cut the 2 bolt exhaust flange and took the nuts and all but 3 studs out of the block I could only move the manifold back about 1/4 inch which was not enough to clear the studs, I then kept taking thing off until I could move it freely, for me what snagged me the most were the 2 hard oil lines, looking back I could have left the coolant line on the top on as it connects to a flex line.
 

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Completely missed that we were talking about an AWD, makes sense now, less room to work with!

Glad you were able to get it all squared away. Love the cutout location.
 

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MSOCOLA - Very well done indeed, you gotta post a video with the sound with the cutout! Congrats on your new car, and repair success!
 

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Let me ask you guys this: did you ever consider unbolting the left side engine mount and pushing the engine forward to give yourself some extra room to work (especially with AWD)? I saw a tip like that for removing the air filter housing on SS and you can get an extra 1-1.5" of clearance out of the engine bay just with that move alone. If I had to, I'd unbolt both side engine mounts and move the engine forward.
 

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As long as you unbolt your DP from the turbo, or unbolt it from the rest of the exhaust so that it can slide forward with the engine, that's a great idea! You just don't want to put unnecessary stress on the flex pipe.
 

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Never thought about the flex pipe - huh. Unbolting the passenger side engine mount (while supported from underneath) is my go-to move for air box removal - you can push it back by hand, there's almost no resistance, so I assume the exhaust moves on the hangers. Anyways, I have a little ticking sound on cold startup so I may be getting into a new exhaust manifold gasket situation; or, *fingers crossed* it's just a couple loose bolts.
 

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And btw, checked out a couple of your youtube vids yesterday. Cool car (but damn loud!). Saw you integrated a boost gauge into the pillar - how did you do that???
 

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The S40 was a little too loud... But that straight piped muffler delete only last 6 days before I sold the car, haha! Never going back to a muffler delete...

Here's info on the A-pillar pod. I have a spare A-pillar and a 52mm gauge pod if you're interested in a project. ;)
 

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Hmmmm. Maybe. :) How hard is it to hookup a boost gauge? Did you ever see this? http://www.andysautosport.com/products/ortiz_custom_pods__ocpvo-3.html
Yep, super easy to make one of those. Problem is, even if you recess it well into the bezel, you're still blocking one or two of the gauge lights.

Boost gauge installation is pretty easy. It only gets complicated when you want to wire in a dimmer for the display. Lots of good threads in the stickies for boost gauge installs.
 

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Hm. I'm going to look into that and find out which warning lights it would be blocking. And of course I'd want to add the dimmer to it, that way the project is much harder!
They also sell other prefab'd gauge mounts. I think one for the left side air vent and another for steering console. After looking at all the crazy detail work in that boost gauge pod thread (btw, my architectural trained mind is very impressed!), I think I'm going to stick with a prefab'd kit. Not only would any imperfections drive me nuts, but I'd spend a ton of time on making something only half-decent.
 
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