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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi R Forum!!

I have been browsing the forum regularly and have come to really appreciate the community.
I have a "new to me" 2005 Volvo M66 SR. I believe the color is either black sapphire or magic blue. The car has 134k on it.

I have just finished investing some money into the front end (new monroe struts, lower control arms, and sway bar links).

Apparently, while at my Indy shop, the caR developed a major PS fluid leak. The indy shop "tightened up a connection" (not sure where) and refilled with that Pentosin fluid. However, on my ride back from Western New York to Cleveland, OH (~200 miles) the reservoir was completely empty again. Considering the leak rate, I am guessing I drove a significant portion of that drive with no PS fluid.

Based off what I have read, it seems the 05+ is the better PS reservoir system. As I started looking into how to diagnose/pin point the location of the leak I realized that my reservoir cap on the 05+ did NOT have the attached dip stick for checking fluid level. I definitely noticed some traces of fluid toward the top of the reservoir.

I am wondering if this could be my sole problem, as I am not sure of the complete implications of missing that piece of the cap..

Hypothetically - if I order the cap, replace and still leak fluid, then where do I start on this 05+ system? Any known weak points? Could I have fried my PS pump on the long drive back?

Thanks in advance!!!
John
 

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Unless you have a universal cap made by another company, and it leaked fluid, the cap should not be your issue. Logic would dictate that unless you saw fluid all over your engine bay in a pattern that seemed to have originated at the cap, your leak is coming from another part of the power steering system.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unless you have a universal cap made by another company, and it leaked fluid, the cap should not be your issue. Logic would dictate that unless you saw fluid all over your engine bay in a pattern that seemed to have originated at the cap, your leak is coming from another part of the power steering system.




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Thanks for the reply. After inspecting the area around the reservoir and the cap itself - I believe that I am missing the part of the cap that actually creates the seal at the lid. Hoping that the $9.00 cap solves the issue.
Just ordered it from FCP.

I believe the second half of my cap got stuck in the lid opening itself. Unfortunately I’m not really sure what happens but that is part of the result of leaving the caR with my out of town mechanic for 5 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
bump

I replaced the cap and re-filled the fluid. Took it for a drive and lost all of the fluid (good bye $43 of pentosin chf 11s..) by the time I got back... So now I am back to the drawing board and need help. I am an upcoming DIYer, with a few small wins under my belt - but far from effective/efficient.

My plan is to pull the reservoir and inspect the hose connections from the reservoir to the pump. I saw a YT video where the guy cut back the hose about 1.5" before the PS pump and re-connected the hose to PS pump with the same clamp. Said it was a common 'flaw' and source of leaks that usually didn't warrant buying a new hose/reservoir to fix.

My question is, at what point will I know that this is turning into more than just cutting back or replacing hoses and reservoirs?? At what point do I start to look at the PS pump itself, or even the steering rack?:confused::confused: Or I am thinking too far ahead??

THANKS!!!
 

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Unless you are finding a HUGE mess on the RH inner fender below tank running onto ground, your leak is somewhere else. Put ATF in it for leak testing, the gallon jug at Wal-Mart that is the store brand (tech 2000?) is perfectly alright. The Pentosin is used to prevent whine when fluid gets hot and air gets trapped in fluid. ATF will not harm anything. Once it is filled, with car running and parked, run steering wheel to full right and then to full left and see where the fluid is escaping. Often the pressure hose gets a hole in it and when you go to full travel right or left the pressure goes way up and it will squirt out of the leak point if hell at full travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks cattlecar. I went ahead and did the recommended leak test (by filling w fluid, and turning steering wheel to full lock Left and full lock Right - and immediately examining the system)

What I did not (& was hoping to find) was a clear leak at the hose connections beneath the reservoir. However - I did definitely notice some fluid at the seams of the reservoir itself. (see pics)

The place I did find definitive leaks were at these boots over be each steering wheel, and at this point I'm not sure where to really start - as it appears to be leaking from several different places. (see pics)

Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/qCJOoi7?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="Vpnk5mG"><a href="//imgur.com/Vpnk5mG"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


I have a horrible feeling that those boots connecting the inner tie rod to the steering rack and swollen with fluid, meaning I have a leak at the rack?
 

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Ayup.

My mom had a V70 with a bad rack that she drove for 3 years just adding fluid to it because the indie she took it to for service wanted $1200 to replace it. (She doesn't live anywhere near me, otherwise I'd have taken care of it)

After doing the trans (several times...) in my car, I can understand why. I know, different chassis, but it is not a terribly easy rack to swap.

Where in Cleveland are you at? I am working for an indie in North Royalton, we specialize in Hondas but we service everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ayup.

My mom had a V70 with a bad rack that she drove for 3 years just adding fluid to it because the indie she took it to for service wanted $1200 to replace it. (She doesn't live anywhere near me, otherwise I'd have taken care of it)

After doing the trans (several times...) in my car, I can understand why. I know, different chassis, but it is not a terribly easy rack to swap.

Where in Cleveland are you at? I am working for an indie in North Royalton, we specialize in Hondas but we service everything.
Thanks for the reply. I live downtown and my office where I work is located in Solon - so we are pretty close. I really don't know what to do because I don't think I can do this repair myself. (believe it involves dropping the subframe slightly/pulling the rack and sending it back for rebuild? and it is against the rules to do that kind of work in my parking garage)

I think I am going to cross my fingers and use some stop leak additive fluid and see if that repairs the blown seals. I guess the ps rack is supposed to be a lifetime part on the caR, which really makes me feel unlucky.

Let's suppose the ps stop leak doesn't fix the issue, do you know what kind of $$ i'd be looking at to get this done at a shop like yours?

Thanks
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Bump!!!!!

So - I am going to try a DIY for this steering rack replacement, even though I am an amateur. The #1 thing working against me is that it will have to be done on the 4th floor of our buildings parking garage with hand tools. (no access to a lift)

I'm having an extremely difficult time finding a certified remanufactured rack - so I am going for a used one instead. What are the general guidelines for swapping another model year rack onto the caR? Or must the used rack come from a 05 MT s60r? Also, what is the deal with this Saginaw manufacture and non-saginaw manufacture? Can it come from a same model year v70r?

For example, would this one work?
2005 VOLVO 70 SERIES
Steering Rack and Pinion
6 MONTH WARRANTY Power Rack and Pinion, R model, Saginaw manufacturer

Any guidance here would be much appreciated. Also - since I have never had to drop a sub frame before, anything to take care about with our caRs?

Thank you!!
John
 

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Look at parts diagrams to check compatibility. If you have VIDA, use that or go on volvopartswebstore or some site and check. I would think all racks are the same for the Rs. Replacing the rack will be a big job but if you have a good set of tools you can do it and it won't be that bad. Start soaking the ujoint and bolt holding it to rack with penetrating oil before hand. Same with any other fittings if they haven't been removed in a while.
Also Erie Vo Vo has a lifetime warranty on used parts if you can find one there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sadly I think I am going to bail on this job as a DIY. Reason being if I screw up and can’t get the rack back in and I’m in the parking garage I will have no way of contracting assistance. And can get in a good amount of s*** for getting caught doing the job in there. Oh well - Looks like I’m going to be out another $1.5K to maintenance on the caR.

BTW - i probably would have bailed on the car in general had I noticed this issue when buying it. Needed new 4cs, timing belt and steering rack... Which will have cost me about $3.5k for those repairs alone..... :(


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Sadly I think I am going to bail on this job as a DIY. Reason being if I screw up and can’t get the rack back in and I’m in the parking garage I will have no way of contracting assistance. And can get in a good amount of s*** for getting caught doing the job in there. Oh well - Looks like I’m going to be out another $1.5K to maintenance on the caR.

BTW - i probably would have bailed on the car in general had I noticed this issue when buying it. Needed new 4cs, timing belt and steering rack... Which will have cost me about $3.5k for those repairs alone..... :(


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I used to live in an apartment in a downtown area and parked in a parking garage. The R was my only car and anytime I had to do work I had to do it there or at the folks house. Just bought my V70 last summer and then purchased my first house, WITH A GARAGE and now I can leave my R up and jackstands and take my time with repairs/upgrades while I drive the V70 around. It's made things much easier.
I highly recommend a beater if you can afford it and want to do your own work on the car.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well congrats! That must be pretty nice to not be ‘rushed’.

I do drive a 2019 VW Jetta as my ‘daily’.

Since this is a repair that is so critical to the ability to sell the caR (eventually... ;)) i am going to have it done by the pros. It is a great car otherwise for sure.

Thanks for the advice!


I used to live in an apartment in a downtown area and parked in a parking garage. The R was my only car and anytime I had to do work I had to do it there or at the folks house. Just bought my V70 last summer and then purchased my first house, WITH A GARAGE and now I can leave my R up and jackstands and take my time with repairs/upgrades while I drive the V70 around. It's made things much easier.
I highly recommend a beater if you can afford it and want to do your own work on the car.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk



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The racks are not all the same FYI... There are 3 or 4 different ones with minute differences...

There is:

2004 original-- has threaded in supply/return lines and a steering input shaft that uses the early u-joint assembly 3409939

2004 current-- has threaded in supply/return lines and a steering input shaft that uses the later u-joint assembly 30741950

And in 2005 or 2006 I believe they switched to push-in power steering lines rather then threaded. Don't know exactly when the change was made or when the updated u-joint went into production. Any rack you buy new today regardless of year will require the later u-joint
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thank you for this.

The racks are not all the same FYI... There are 3 or 4 different ones with minute differences...

There is:

2004 original-- has threaded in supply/return lines and a steering input shaft that uses the early u-joint assembly 3409939

2004 current-- has threaded in supply/return lines and a steering input shaft that uses the later u-joint assembly 30741950

And in 2005 or 2006 I believe they switched to push-in power steering lines rather then threaded. Don't know exactly when the change was made or when the updated u-joint went into production. Any rack you buy new today regardless of year will require the later u-joint
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE:
Brought this to a local indy shop.
They found a rack for ~$600 (12,000 mile warranty) (reman) (doesn't really matter since I am moving soon...)
Installing it for $350
Also installing 1x LH lower control arm $90
PS Fluid $10
Alignment $79
for a total of: $1,129

Any thoughts on this please? I am thinking it is pretty fair.
Supposed to go provide a deposit on the rack this evening...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The racks are not all the same FYI... There are 3 or 4 different ones with minute differences...

There is:

2004 original-- has threaded in supply/return lines and a steering input shaft that uses the early u-joint assembly 3409939

2004 current-- has threaded in supply/return lines and a steering input shaft that uses the later u-joint assembly 30741950

And in 2005 or 2006 I believe they switched to push-in power steering lines rather then threaded. Don't know exactly when the change was made or when the updated u-joint went into production. Any rack you buy new today regardless of year will require the later u-joint
This is absolutely true. Brought it to the indy shop and the owner told me that this job on this caR has been "one of the biggest nightmares" he has ever experienced.
I tried warning him and passing along all research I did prior to "leaving it with him" - as he confidently asserted. I basically said OK and crossed my fingers in hopes that this guy knew what the hell he was doing. "Yeah, yeah... I work on volvo s60s all the time...." Should have been enough of a give away.

So THREE different racks later, and he still has not found one that actually fits the caR. Problem seems to be that he is getting racks that don't have the speed sensitive assist.

Can anybody help here and provide a part number or link to the correct steering rack for an 05 m66 sR with date of manufacture in late 2004? So many props as I have had my caR sitting in shops since late April and just want to DRIVE it......

THANKS!
 

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You need the VIN. Call the dealer with it and get the PN.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You need the VIN. Call the dealer with it and get the PN.
Done, I got Volvo PN 36050368 ($1,541) for the steering gear assy. And Volvo PN 30741950 for the steering shaft.

Now here's where things get tricky. I don't think the PN provided by Volvo dealer is a direct "drop in" replacement for what came on the car. I am lead to believe this because they say to update steering shaft as well if you are "replacing the original rack with a late design model"

So they are just automatically recommending the 06-07 rack if you call for a replacement PN, hence recommending the updated shaft.

The question is, should I really update to 06-07 - or can I get away with 05?

Reason I want 05 is for warranty on non-OEM reman. I can't find any 06-07 racks other than OEM for $1200+
 
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