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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, second post here. I recently went through a ton of electrical issues with my 04 xc90 T6 and after I figured out the issue I decided to change out my timing belt. I am very positive that I did the change correctly as I was detailed in making sure the marks were all lined up and there weren't any valves hitting the pistons. However, upon driving it for the first time since the change yesterday it seems to have gone into limp mode. No power, won't rev past 3k rpm. At first I had an engine requires service signal on my dash but after resetting the system by taking off the battery cables and driving again it hasn't come back. Still in limp mode, doesn't say its in limp mode or anything. But acts exactly like everyone describes. I'm so confused...only codes I have on the dash are for light bulbs out, the parking sensor (which I removed the relay for for the time being), anti skid service, and abs. How is the car still in limp mode and have no engine codes?!?!?! Car runs and sounds good, and I can actually get it going to 40mph on base highway as it shifts and shifts smoothly once the proper speed is there... could my vvt be off just a hair and still not throw the code?
 

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Can you check the valve timing again? If it's off the engine won't make full power. Also, the anti-skid system can limit torque. Anti-skid and ABS issues may be related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Finally got back at it and checked my timing.. results are subject to opinion... Car ran fine before the tb change and I didn't mess with anything else...but I won't rule that out as a possibility. Anyway, using a borescope in this process is a life saver!!! Crank mark is lined up, but camshafts seem odd. The intake side vvt is almost all the way CCW but lines up with the mark perfectly. The exhaust side looks to be slightly advanced (at the upper limit of the plastic notch) and is almost all the way CW in the vvt hub. When I put this all together both marks were spot on...had I accidentally moved the VVT hub on either of these cams? Or am I off a tooth on one? Can't be that far off since there's no valve contact right? This is my first time doing VVT work by myself and it's not rubbing off on me all too well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also, I have done a lot of digging on the vvt system and I understand what's going on but I'm confused as heck when it comes to my situation of re-adjusting them! I need a dummies explanation of how to re adjust. Can I simply loosen the 8mm bolts, remove the belt from the cams, and rotate the cam gear all the way CW and be good with it after realigning the marks keeping the gear CW and reinstalling the belt?
 

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I've done something similar twice and have resolved via VIDA/DICE after I saw how far off I was- once by screw adjustment and once having to remove the belt.

The process is the same for your T6 as for the XC90 5 cylinders, both with dual VVT. There will be plenty in the other P2 forums as well, here's one example of a search- (1) Search results for query: dual vvt camshaft alignment | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum

In my opinion it's a crapshoot doing any VVT adjustment troubleshooting without being able to read the ECM code for the camshaft. Not sure whatever else will do limp, I'll bet camshaft senors would though as well as MAF. Would not hurt to walk back through all you've done, see if anything is loose.

Dumb question, back of the cams get locked when you did the t-belt replace?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks! I am starting to find all the information necessary. I did not lock the back of the cams when I did the belt. I think what I did wrong unknowingly was that I did not advance the hubs all the way forward when I reinstalled the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Still working on the tb, think it will be good now after all the info I dug up. I will give an update if it worked and post where I got the info from of course. However, I decided to replace some clicking relays at the REM and found that two had 4 prongs instead of 5 prongs? If this is correct can you tell me the positions they should be in? It was obvious someone was in there and did not know what they were doing. There was a Ford brand relay causing my "position light failure" code that when I replaced fixed it. Upon looking through the other relays closely, I found 2 with only 4 ends/prongs and I have high reason to doubt they are in proper position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update on the tb, I finally got a code for p0016 camshaft bank 1 sensor A. So I pulled off the cover on the back of the intake. Sure enough, it was slightly advanced so I redid the belt setting the intake cam properly and all is good, no codes for timing. I do have a p0243 code now for turbo wastegate...I'm thinking I have a vacuum disconnected. But the car is still in limp mode! Now that I think about it, a few weeks before I did the tb I replaced the driverside wheel bearings. May have messed up one of the sensors.
 
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