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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
04 S60R GT with 84k miles

I've been stressing out over my PCV system being bad. The only symptom of it being bad is that the glove test proves positive pressure (lightly inflates the glove.) Outside of that, there's no other signs of there being a faulty system. No apparent leakage (garage is completely dry,) the dipstick stays in place, there's no apparent leakage from the oil filler cap or the PCV head breather hose (next to oil filler cap,) no weird noises, no smoke; nothing.

The car appears to run perfectly outside of what appears to be somewhat poor gas mileage, although most of my driving is stop and go under 40 mph and in small trips and somewhat quick acceleration (could be reason for low gas mileage.) It appears the last owner wasn't too kind to her and there's some signs of oil sludge from not changing the oil etc. I plan on running some sea foam and auto RX to help clear out the system.

Given that I have no symptoms whatsoever of a bad PCV system outside of positive pressure, am I safe to make a roadtrip that's 200 miles one way? I was initially planning on replacing the system myself, but my roommate's family friend is a retired Volvo tech who will know exactly what to do for cheap and will safe me the hassle/stress of such a tedious job. That being said, it should take about a month before I have the money to do this. I only drive about 100 miles a week, which can be cut down now that it's getting cooler and I can bike to work. However, I'd like to make a trip to visit my family in the next coming weeks. Will I be safe to take a roadtrip that's roughly 400 miles roundtrip if I go easy on her? If I need to un-seal the dipstick, I will (I'm aware of the potential of oil spewing out.)

Also, what kind of results can I expect from sea-foaming and using auto-RX? Will this help with the PCV system at all? Likewise, are there any simple tests/things to try that could help diagnose the issue? Thanks guys
 

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Forget seafoam it's useless for the PCV system I don't know about seafoam and sludge. If you wanna look for sludge take off the valve cover. Buy a PCV kit and get it installed. 200 miles won't matter. It's (I'm assuming) highway and the engine is fat dumb and happy cruising on the highway (running it on the highway for a decent amount of time is crucial for PCV longevity) Your mileage issues might be plugs and coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Forget seafoam it's useless for the PCV system I don't know about seafoam and sludge. If you wanna look for sludge take off the valve cover. Buy a PCV kit and get it installed. 200 miles won't matter. It's (I'm assuming) highway and the engine is fat dumb and happy cruising on the highway (running it on the highway for a decent amount of time is crucial for PCV longevity) Your mileage issues might be plugs and coils.
Regardless of the PCV system, would seafoam be worthwhile given it's got 84k miles and signs of prolonged oil changes? There's some crud crusted under the oil filler cap etc. Yeah I'll have to check under the valve cover today after work. I plan on buying a kit asap, but it won't be before I want to make this trip. OK sounds good, and yeah it's all highway miles at 75-85mph. Should I worry about un-sealing my dipstick on the roadtrip? That's interesting, why's that?

Out of curiosity, this is certainly a newer issue considering there's no signs of the PCV being bad outside of the positive pressure. I'm assuming it's from the last few oil changes going too few and far between. Also considering the possibility that the last owner didn't drive much freeway. I just changed the oil which was very very dirty and low to full synthetic. Is it possible that after taking a 400 mile roundtrip roadtrip the system could clear itself? Perhaps it's just a small clog that could be pushed out from a nice long drive?
 

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04 S60R GT with 84k miles

I've been stressing out over my PCV system being bad. The only symptom of it being bad is that the glove test proves positive pressure (lightly inflates the glove.) Outside of that, there's no other signs of there being a faulty system. No apparent leakage (garage is completely dry,) the dipstick stays in place, there's no apparent leakage from the oil filler cap or the PCV head breather hose (next to oil filler cap,) no weird noises, no smoke; nothing.

The car appears to run perfectly outside of what appears to be somewhat poor gas mileage, although most of my driving is stop and go under 40 mph and in small trips and somewhat quick acceleration (could be reason for low gas mileage.) It appears the last owner wasn't too kind to her and there's some signs of oil sludge from not changing the oil etc. I plan on running some sea foam and auto RX to help clear out the system.

Given that I have no symptoms whatsoever of a bad PCV system outside of positive pressure, am I safe to make a roadtrip that's 200 miles one way? I was initially planning on replacing the system myself, but my roommate's family friend is a retired Volvo tech who will know exactly what to do for cheap and will safe me the hassle/stress of such a tedious job. That being said, it should take about a month before I have the money to do this. I only drive about 100 miles a week, which can be cut down now that it's getting cooler and I can bike to work. However, I'd like to make a trip to visit my family in the next coming weeks. Will I be safe to take a roadtrip that's roughly 400 miles roundtrip if I go easy on her? If I need to un-seal the dipstick, I will (I'm aware of the potential of oil spewing out.)

Also, what kind of results can I expect from sea-foaming and using auto-RX? Will this help with the PCV system at all? Likewise, are there any simple tests/things to try that could help diagnose the issue? Thanks guys
My PCV system tested positive with the glove test... But the car ran fine! That is, until my cam seals blew out. No symptoms until that point. You HAVE to take the intake manifold off and clean/replace all the little hoses and nipples. out, and replace the PCV box. Seafoam spray and a small piece of metal wire will help. DO IT NOW!!! Replacing the cam seals after already misdiagnosing it oil leak as the crank seal is not fun!!

EDIT: 400 mile road trip? Out of the question. Would never risk an R with a bad PCV system with something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My PCV system tested positive with the glove test... But the car ran fine! That is, until my cam seals blew out. No symptoms until that point. You HAVE to take the intake manifold off and clean/replace all the little hoses and nipples. out, and replace the PCV box. Seafoam spray and a small piece of metal wire will help. DO IT NOW!!! Replacing the cam seals after already misdiagnosing it oil leak as the crank seal is not fun!!

EDIT: 400 mile road trip? Out of the question. Would never risk an R with a bad PCV system with something like that.
Yeesh, how long after testing positive did your cam seals blow out? And how much did that cost to fix? I've watched plenty of videos, I'm mechanically inclined, and I've worked on Volvos before. It seems to be a pretty straight forward process; just a lot of tedious bolts and whatnot. Taking off the intake manifold doesn't seem too daunting. Do I have to spend the $400 for the replacement kit from IPD, or are there other kits out there? Or could I get away with taking the system apart and thoroughly cleaning everything? (assuming I don't break anything in the process). I just got this car and I'm still working on paying it off. Sucks I didn't catch this sooner while it was under dealer warranty. He's a standup guy so I just asked him anyways, hopefully he's willing to help out.
 

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Yeesh, how long after testing positive did your cam seals blow out? And how much did that cost to fix? I've watched plenty of videos, I'm mechanically inclined, and I've worked on Volvos before. It seems to be a pretty straight forward process; just a lot of tedious bolts and whatnot. Taking off the intake manifold doesn't seem too daunting. Do I have to spend the $400 for the replacement kit from IPD, or are there other kits out there? Or could I get away with taking the system apart and thoroughly cleaning everything? (assuming I don't break anything in the process). I just got this car and I'm still working on paying it off. Sucks I didn't catch this sooner while it was under dealer warranty. He's a standup guy so I just asked him anyways, hopefully he's willing to help out.
So doing the cam seals is easy.... Except doing the cam sprocket realignment is really sketchy and terrifying. I don't remember how long between when I tested and when they blew. Parts are pretty cheap though. However you will need to buy the special toolkit to lock the cam and crank. I'm mechanically uhh inclined and this was the hardest thing my dad or I have ever done, and that area of the engine bay is not fun. I was genuinely pissed at the car itself by the end lol. Proceed with caution, do your research, and don't beat on the car until you complete the job.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So doing the cam seals is easy.... Except doing the cam sprocket realignment is really sketchy and terrifying. I don't remember how long between when I tested and when they blew. Parts are pretty cheap though. However you will need to buy the special toolkit to lock the cam and crank. I'm mechanically uhh inclined and this was the hardest thing my dad or I have ever done, and that area of the engine bay is not fun. I was genuinely pissed at the car itself by the end lol. Proceed with caution, do your research, and don't beat on the car until you complete the job.

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Or I could just avoid that altogether and replace the PCV system now lol. I hit up the dealer that I bought the car from and being the great guy he is, he's having me bring it to his mechanic today for a gameplan/quote and he's willing to help me out with the repair be it parts or maintenance. What a great guy.
 

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Wait, did you say the replacement PCV kit is $400??? The box costs like $50, tops. At least for the T5. I only go to IPD for aftermarket upgrades or body stuff. Everything else is cheaper on rockauto.
 

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The entire PCV kit is like $250 max and that includes the $120 coolant filled pipe and all that stuff. I misread you post as drive it 200 miles to get the PCV done. Do it before.
 

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The entire PCV kit is like $250 max and that includes the $120 coolant filled pipe and all that stuff. I misread you post as drive it 200 miles to get the PCV done. Do it before.
Yeah you don't need that, just get the box from rockauto. If you really need vaccuum tubing just use appropriately sized marine grade fuel hose.

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Yeah you don't need that, just get the box from rockauto. If you really need vaccuum tubing just use appropriately sized marine grade fuel hose.

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Yep. It's the box and the hose from the box to the valve cover that go bad. The big pipe is usually ok. I just buy the OEM because doing it more than every 100k because I cheaped out on plastic isn't my cup of tea.
 

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Yep. It's the box and the hose from the box to the valve cover that go bad. The big pipe is usually ok. I just buy the OEM because doing it more than every 100k because I cheaped out on plastic isn't my cup of tea.
Yeah I know what you're saying. I just hate when people advocate for shelling out cash without reaallly seeing if you can do it just as good or better for cheaper. I'm working on a college budget and try not to be irresponsible and splurge on parts just because its easier. Volvo specced crap rubber and plastic all over so I think marine stuff will hold up better anyway. Just my .02

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Yeah I know what you're saying. I just hate when people advocate for shelling out cash without reaallly seeing if you can do it just as good or better for cheaper. I'm working on a college budget and try not to be irresponsible and splurge on parts just because its easier. Volvo specced crap rubber and plastic all over so I think marine stuff will hold up better anyway. Just my .02

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I feel ya. Look at struts for an R. You have 2 options Monroe for Volvo or Monroe for Volvo with a Volvo sticker. Only difference is price. I keep it OEM (or OEM supplier) for hoses, belts, sensors, mounts, and suspension. I've just been burned too much by aftermarket junk... OEM is what I go with if I can. Also, I have heard horror stories about MAC TCVs and K&N air filters.
 

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Oof. Only reason I'm glad I don't have an R is the 4C shocks. $$$$$$$$$$$$

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Yeesh, how long after testing positive did your cam seals blow out? And how much did that cost to fix? I've watched plenty of videos, I'm mechanically inclined, and I've worked on Volvos before. It seems to be a pretty straight forward process; just a lot of tedious bolts and whatnot. Taking off the intake manifold doesn't seem too daunting. Do I have to spend the $400 for the replacement kit from IPD, or are there other kits out there? Or could I get away with taking the system apart and thoroughly cleaning everything? (assuming I don't break anything in the process). I just got this car and I'm still working on paying it off. Sucks I didn't catch this sooner while it was under dealer warranty. He's a standup guy so I just asked him anyways, hopefully he's willing to help out.
I already said you can have my old PCV. I can't be more than a 5 mile drive for you. You'll need a new intake gasket and a small hose, but that's it. If it gets you 30-40K mi, that gets you closer to not having car pmts before you need to buy a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I already said you can have my old PCV. I can't be more than a 5 mile drive for you. You'll need a new intake gasket and a small hose, but that's it. If it gets you 30-40K mi, that gets you closer to not having car pmts before you need to buy a new one.
I'll keep in touch. I'm taking the car to my dealer's mechanic today after work so he can see what's up. Given he's friends with the dealer, he's gonna give him a good rate. Regardless of that, my dealer said he will help me pay for it. Whether that means parts, labor, or both, I do not know. He just told me to come on by so we can get the ball rollin and see where we need to go from there. I'll keep you in mind if we need those parts. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The entire PCV kit is like $250 max and that includes the $120 coolant filled pipe and all that stuff. I misread you post as drive it 200 miles to get the PCV done. Do it before.
Where's that kit? Or is that pieced together on Rockauto or something? I'm just going based on the OEM/IPD kit on IPD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Fcpeuro.com
The full system replacement kit for the 04 s60r is $368. Which is on par with IPD. If I end up doing this myself, I'll probably piece it together using the kit as reference since "thaxman" is in my city and has a box that I can use. I may have caught a big break though. The dealer I bought the car from is willing to help me out on the repair even though the dealer warranty has expired. I'm taking it to his mechanic today after work so he can look at it and give us a quote and we will go from there. He's got a lot of experience with Volvo and he's gonna hook it up for the dealer since they're friends. Hopefully this is an easy, quick and cheap fix for us. Gotta start somewhere, I'll update when I know more.
 
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