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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New coils, new plugs, new o2 up and down, new oil+filter, compression at 150 on all cylinders, 90ish ohm on fuel injectors and still getting code P0355 and P0305.
I've swapped coils and plugs to eliminate faulty coils/plugs and still focused on #5. Here's the weird part. I drive about 30 miles to work, in the mornings 3:30am it runs perfect but in the afternoon on the way home about 15-20min of driving and the motor is hot, it is clear as day the cylinder cuts out. Rough idle and major loss of power. Another tricky thing is I can put the car in neutral while driving, shut it off then turn back on and the problem goes away for about 1 mile then back to the problem. I can not figure this out, I've checked fuses and wiring for damage and did basic replacements yet I'm at a stand still with my basic knowledge.
I've read on another form a BMW having a similar issue and it being a stuck exhaust lifter. Before I go ripping anything apart I'm hoping somebody knows what's happening. Perhaps I'm missing a vacume line or damaged wire. Please if anybody has any knowledge of what I should check next before I go full send off a mountain, it would be a life saver for me and my s60!
 

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I would replace the coil connector for #5.It might get distorted and ground out when the engine is hot. The part is available at FCP in original Volvo for $8.You will need an extractor tool to remove the pins from the old connector.Once the pins are out,you can see if they are burnt.Also pull off the old conduit on the harness and look closely for a crack/split on the wires.
 

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Fascinating. If that’s the fix, this site rocks.
I would replace the coil connector for #5.It might get distorted and ground out when the engine is hot. The part is available at FCP in original Volvo for $8.You will need an extractor tool to remove the pins from the old connector.Once the pins are out,you can see if they are burnt.Also pull off the old conduit on the harness and look closely for a crack/split on the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheficky you are the man! So upon looking at what you mentioned I've found nothing was wrong with the connectors at the coils but it was at the #5 fuel injector clip! The wiring was testing good for voltage but the clip was damaged inside. I shoved a bolt in between the clip and the fuel rail itself (putting tape around the bolt to not damage the aluminum railing) just enough to gain electrical contact until I was able to get to autozone for the $12 replacement. And had no problems once hot, in the middle of the day where it would normally start to trip out. Swaped it out and codes are gone! I guess it goes to show the importance to also check the connectors as well as the wiring when eliminating potential problems. Tune up was needed anyhow because now the throttle response and gas efficiency is at that "oh hell ya" level! Love the support of this form from far and wide! Can't thank you enough for at least getting me to look at something easily overlooked!!!
 

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Chefricky - the doctor. Glad you got it fixed, Volifer!
Cheficky you are the man! So upon looking at what you mentioned I've found nothing was wrong with the connectors at the coils but it was at the #5 fuel injector clip! The wiring was testing good for voltage but the clip was damaged inside. I shoved a bolt in between the clip and the fuel rail itself (putting tape around the bolt to not damage the aluminum railing) just enough to gain electrical contact until I was able to get to autozone for the $12 replacement. And had no problems once hot, in the middle of the day where it would normally start to trip out. Swaped it out and codes are gone! I guess it goes to show the importance to also check the connectors as well as the wiring when eliminating potential problems. Tune up was needed anyhow because now the throttle response and gas efficiency is at that "oh hell ya" level! Love the support of this form from far and wide! Can't thank you enough for at least getting me to look at something easily overlooked!!!
 
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