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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently bought a 2002 v70xc with 185k miles.

Car looks good and drives good, but yesterday i started hearing a clunk when braking (comes from drivers side front). got new wheels and alignment about 200 miles ago.

I looked behind the wheel and the rubber for the sway bar end links (upper) is torn and not much, if any grease left in there. So figure i should replace those, not too expensive, and easy to do.

After some research though and looking into things i am considering replacing the control arms (for the bushings, sounds like less of a hassle to replace the whole arm than trying to fit the bushing), lower ball joints, and maybe the struts too.

But considering my budget and that i got the car for 2600 throwing 1000 dollars into the car seems... i don´t know, not really something id celebrate :D

Anyway, i would really appreciate some pointers for the clunk.
It comes (most times) when braking, and sometimes when accelerating, worse when driving slow (20mph) and braking, not too much when driving around 60, or i don´t notice it as much. No noise over bumps, big or small.

Also pointers to what to look for if some parts can be kept, maybe how to test if parts are bad (struts) etc, and what parts i should buy.

Iv looked into getting HD IPD parts for the link ends, and maybe Meyle HD for the control arms.

Any and all suggestions are very welcomed. Trying to keep the cost low but still get a good result with no clunks.
Thanks

My DIY skills have allowed me to successfully rebuild an engine, so this should be straight forward.

Here is a list i put together on the IPD site. Would i need springs as well or can i keep the old ones?
113147 Front Strut - XC70SHIPPABLE X $119.95 = $239.90 REMOVE
114448 Front Strut Top Nut Wrench and Socket ToolSHIPPABLE X $16.95 = $16.95 REMOVE
121557 Front HD Spring Seat & Mount Kit - P2 S60 V70 XC70 S80 XC90SHIPPABLE X $224.95 = $224.95 REMOVE
124269 Front Strut Dust Boot Bellows CoverSHIPPABLE X $9.95 = $19.90 REMOVE
124647 Front & Rear HD End Link KitSHIPPABLE X $118.95 = $118.95 REMOVE
124783 HD Front Suspension Kit - P2 XC70SHIPPABLE X $378.95 = $378.95 REMOVE
 

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You can rule out the endlinks by disconnecting them and go for a drive that would normally cause the clunk. If the clunk is still there than its probably spring seats or lower control arms.

You can test the spring seats by butting a wrench on the top nut on the strut assembly. If you can spin it with moderate force then it is blown. If it resists and only lets you move it slightly, then it is still in tact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You can rule out the endlinks by disconnecting them and go for a drive that would normally cause the clunk. If the clunk is still there than its probably spring seats or lower control arms.

You can test the spring seats by butting a wrench on the top nut on the strut assembly. If you can spin it with moderate force then it is blown. If it resists and only lets you move it slightly, then it is still in tact.
Thank´s for the reply.
By top nut you mean the center nut under the rubber inside the engine compartment? and by butting you mean? wanting to make sure i get this done right (english is my 3rd language :)

Iv ordered the end links as the rubber was torn, went with IPD. so needs to be replaced anyway.

I was looking at polyurethane bushings for the control arms, but could only find the one that has the two bolts to mount with, i assume its the lower rear.
Do you know if the other bushing can be found in poly? or is it wiser to go with the rubber bushings assuming i can find a shop that will fit them for me?

Thanks again.
 

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Thank´s for the reply.
By top nut you mean the center nut under the rubber inside the engine compartment? and by butting you mean? wanting to make sure i get this done right (english is my 3rd language :)

Iv ordered the end links as the rubber was torn, went with IPD. so needs to be replaced anyway.

I was looking at polyurethane bushings for the control arms, but could only find the one that has the two bolts to mount with, i assume its the lower rear.
Do you know if the other bushing can be found in poly? or is it wiser to go with the rubber bushings assuming i can find a shop that will fit them for me?

Thanks again.
Butting was a typo. I meant to say putting. Sorry for the confusion.

And yes I mean the big center nut under the rubber/plastic cover.

I think it is best to stick with rubber for the lower control arms. There have been lots of issues with using poly for LCA bushings. I would go with IPD HD LCAs or Lemforder. You can get Lemforder from FCPeuro.com
 

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Here's a video of someone performing the spring seat test:
 

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I was looking at polyurethane bushings for the control arms, but could only find the one that has the two bolts to mount with, i assume its the lower rear.
I believe those are for the front bushings, which are okay for poly. Poly rear bushings are not recommended due to binding. I second Lemforder; probably the best choice for rubber parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is awesome!

Thanks for the replies, really helps sort things out and pin things down (so many brands....)

So turns out the clunking noise was my wheel coming off! after the tire change 200 miles ago the lug nuts had started to come out, since i assumed the mech did a good job i did rule that out as a first possibility, but that was the noise. Two lugs where hanging on by a few threads and the three others where less than hand tight.
So clunk taken care of.
I ordered the end links (IPD HD) which seems to get recommended around since one of the boots were torn.
Tested the spring seats and both are in great shape (at least based on that test), lots of resistance, turns maybe 1/6 of a turn and flexes right back.
Also talked to FCP Euro and they suggested the Lemforder rubber bushings like both of you did, saying that poly will give a bouncy ride.

YAY, no 1100 dollar rebuild, so happy when my paranoid thoughts get overruled by simplicity!
Glory!

thanks Freedomfries and T501, very much appreciate the guidance and support.

Any suggestions for my new to me volvo with 185k miles?
Tranny was flushed at 160k and i did a drain and refill a week ago.
Also did oil change with mobil 1 fully synth, flushed the power steering fluid and coolant.
open to suggestions.
 

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Glad to help and glad your wheel didn't come off!

I got in the habit of going around and giving a hard tap on the lugs when ever I have anyone else taking my wheels off. It's saved me a few times now.

As far as suggestions go for other maintenance items to do if they haven't been done yet...

Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Brake fluid

And the two most important items:
Timing belt
PCV
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you.
Timing belt is due in about 40k.
Was done at 120k with pump, 3 or 4 years ago.

My thought was to wait until its reached 210k miles, or wait until the timing belt has done its 105k. Thoughts?

Yes, iv seen posts about PCV systems.....
Is there a check i should do, or buy the whole assembly and replace?
Clean what iv got?

I will look into the Fuel filter, but plugs and airfilter where done,but brake fluid can be changed at some point.

Ill probably change the brakes in a few K so might as well do it then.

Yes i will make it a habit of checking my lugs from now on!

Thank you
 

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No problem.

For the timing belt:
10 years or 105k miles, whichever comes first.

For PCV test:

If it fails the glove test, replace the entire PCV system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Oh well, paycheck disappearing after all :p

Thanks so much for your help

:partywave:
You're welcome!

Yeah I know the PCV isn't a cheap fix but it gets really expensive if it causes oil seals to start popping off the engine. Ask me how I know. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You're welcome!

Yeah I know the PCV isn't a cheap fix but it gets really expensive if it causes oil seals to start popping off the engine. Ask me how I know. ;)
HaHa, Ok, How do you know? (Feels like i know the answer)

Could cleaning it bring about the same result or is changing the way to go?
 

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HaHa, Ok, How do you know? (Feels like i know the answer)

Could cleaning it bring about the same result or is changing the way to go?
Yeah that was kind of a joke because I have had my S60 so long that when mine got clogged, I didn't even know that was an issue then. Mine clogged at about 90k miles and blew the front crank seal and I had a huge puddle of oil on the garage floor. Replacing the PCV system isn't cheap and it can be a pain in the ass, but replacing the PCV system and blown out seals is on a whole other level.

Cleaning it out isn't really an option. The breather box is not serviceable and can crack with age anyway. It is best to replace everything. You should clean the ports on the block that the breather box hooks up to.

Make sure to clean any oil out of the PTC element while you're doing the PCV job.

It's also a good time to clean the valve body because you will already have the intake manifold off. All you need to get is a new throttle body gasket and some throttle body cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah that was kind of a joke because I have had my S60 so long that when mine got clogged, I didn't even know that was an issue then. Mine clogged at about 90k miles and blew the front crank seal and I had a huge puddle of oil on the garage floor. Replacing the PCV system isn't cheap and it can be a pain in the ass, but replacing the PCV system and blown out seals is on a whole other level.

Cleaning it out isn't really an option. The breather box is not serviceable and can crack with age anyway. It is best to replace everything. You should clean the ports on the block that the breather box hooks up to.

Make sure to clean any oil out of the PTC element while you're doing the PCV job.

It's also a good time to clean the valve body because you will already have the intake manifold off. All you need to get is a new throttle body gasket and some throttle body cleaner.
lalala, 320USD.... well, better than replacing the seals like you said.
Parts ordered.
got a throttle body gasket too and will get throttle body cleaner.
Thank you for all the suggestions, really really app

now about the PTC element, any pointers? what is this ?

Will clean all ports when iv got it off.

Estimate on labor time?

Now im doing :
End links
B4 Servo Cover
Transmission Fluid drain and fill
Mount filter for transmission line
PCV system replacement
Clean throttle body and replace gasket
CD-Changer bluetooth and aux adapter.

Anything im forgetting here? or a must do while im "in there?"
:rolleyes:

:cool:
 

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This is awesome!

Thanks for the replies, really helps sort things out and pin things down (so many brands....)

So turns out the clunking noise was my wheel coming off! after the tire change 200 miles ago the lug nuts had started to come out, since i assumed the mech did a good job i did rule that out as a first possibility, but that was the noise. Two lugs where hanging on by a few threads and the three others where less than hand tight.
This can happen if the bearing plate or the center of the wheel are bent. Keep an eye on the bolts in the future, usually when they get loose it will make a thump noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here's the PTC element on an R. The PTC is the same on your car, the turbo intake hose looks slightly different though.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...r-R-today!-!&p=1937421&viewfull=1#post1937421

You don't need to pull it out of the pipe just pull the pipe off the turbo. I would use carb cleaner to clean it. There's a large passage way and a small one. Clean both and make sure they are not blocked.
Excellent. Looks easy and important.
Carb cleaner on a qtip or spray right through?
Might be obvious when i tacle it.

When you said i dont need to take it off you mean it can stay in the air inlet pipe while i clean?

Looking forward to tlc'ing my car.
Good way to bond with it :)
 
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