SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car runs nicely when cold but dies when warmed up after 10-15 miles of city driving. However, it will stay running when given throttle. Feels like bad fuel but fuel has been refilled and, as mentioned, the car does run well in the morning.

There are no codes with this but the ABS/TRACS lights have been on for a few weeks (no relation but thought I would mention it)

The plugs are new as the old plugs were toast. New plugs are fouled with fuel after one run. The car will start again after resting.

Also, the sulphurous smell from the cat is quite noticeable after this happens.

Car does have a custom tune but has behaved well (I've owned it for one year)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,132 Posts
Check the coils
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,132 Posts
Also, if your ABS light just went on, try sticking a piece of cardboard between the abs module and abs pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,441 Posts
3 things need for an engine to run correctly.

Air, Fuel, Spark

Air: Check for vac leaks, check MAF, Idle air controller, etc.
Fuel: Check filter, fuel pump relay
Spark: Check plugs(done), Coils.


Your description leads me to think of AIR being the issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies thus far.

I cleaned the MAF, made no difference (I used the MAF cleaner in the grey can)

The coils seem to be OK, I have had them out 3 times recently to look at the plugs. Is there a resistance test I can do to them?

The car runs GREAT when cold, so I'm suspecting something that is sending too much fuel to the chamber. Again, misfire is only after 10-20 miles and car is hot.

No visible vacuum leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Had two similar issues (V40 2001 and V70R 2004): First one was misfiring/stalling after engine had warmed up, it was a bad throttle sensor. No MIL, no codes.
The other one was caused by a bad coil, no stalling but a lagging acceleration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks Phreak.

When you say throttle sensor, do you mean the ETM? or is there a TPS on this car? I need a damned manual for this thing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I think the correct term is TPS. I'm from Germany and don't know the exact english equivalent. I mean the sensor which measures the throttle valve's angle, i.e. a potentiometer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just drove it home and it was good for the first few miles and then I hit traffic and it started surging and misfiring. It's running crazy rich now with some black smoke. I hope I'm not frying my catalytic.

Would the TPM be responsible for sending the incorrect signal such that it would cause a rich running condition?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
don't see any listing for an idle air control valve on this engine. do know if there is one used on this model?

3 things need for an engine to run correctly.

Air, Fuel, Spark

Air: Check for vac leaks, check MAF, Idle air controller, etc.
Fuel: Check filter, fuel pump relay
Spark: Check plugs(done), Coils.


Your description leads me to think of AIR being the issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,612 Posts
When you say no codes, do you mean a regular OBD scanner got nothing, or did you take it to a shop for a VIDA scan? Because there are a lot of codes that won't show up on a non-VIDA reader, and a lot of codes that won't throw a CEL.

Have you checked for a massive intake leak? Because if it's not the MAF that's what it sounds like to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,672 Posts
FWIW, I recently had very similar symptoms on the same model car. No CEL and no codes on VIDA. It would still run decently when cold, but started to miss as it warmed up, and got really bad when it heat-soaked.
Because of the age and miles, I figured it probably needed them anyway so I just replaced all the coils. Problem solved. Your symptoms are a little more exaggerated, so it's possible you have more than one thing going on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks, all. I'm beginning to highly suspect some software malfunction. Or, the ABS/TRACS light is making things weird, but I don't really see how that could be happening.

I was at AutoZone and had the dude read the codes for ABS light and there was nothing. Then, the day after I had this done, the car started acting up. Again, only when warm. So, it's either an unbelievable coincidence or something was not done correctly when the scanner was plugged in.

Somewhere at home I have the RICA installer and I'm going to have a go at that tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63,541 Posts
Again
You can't read an ABS code/light with a normal scanner
You MUST have it read by VIDA-DICE or the Volvo dealer
If you have a tune, it's possible, just tune it back to stock for now to eliminate that from the equation.

Also if you have a tune you MUST be a stage 0 especially on a higher mileage car
New plugs
New coils
and anything else that may be needed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,885 Posts
A lot of talk about temperature, but no mention of the engine temp sensor.

And a bad ABS modle should have zero effect on how it runs. These things
go Tango Uniform all the time. More info here: https://www.midwest-abs.com/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK, wanted to close the loop here. APPARENTLY (and I use that word cautiously lest I get a CEL on the drive home), my O2 sensors were to blame, or better said, the location of the O2 sensors were to blame. The rear O2 sensor was located before the cat on this custom setup and it was causing the CEL, but strangely stayed silent for over a year while driving the car, perhaps because there was a spacer to keep it out of the direct path of the exhaust.

A custom muffler shop set me straight and fixed the situation (all for low $, I might add) and I've been driving the last 1500mi without a CEL. I sure hope that continues!

</loop>
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top