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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Short version:
Car started hard starting last night, seafoamed it, now it wont start at all. Several codes pulled including misfires, coils replaced, still wont start.
Last night my 00R started running rough and having difficulty starting. It started doing this while the engine was hot and parked for 5 minutes. I came out to it and it didnt start until the second try and then had very low power. The CEL is always on, but was not blinking. I added a few gallons of gas and drove it home and it seemed to be fine.
This morning it took 2 tries again to get it started and it was again very low on power for the first 30 seconds or so. Did the same thing on my lunch break, so I went to walmart and got some techron and seafoam thinking it was a clogged injector or dirty TB. Put the techron in at walmart and went back to work. After work, still hard to start, still down on power for the first minute or so, did this every time I started it.
Drove home, checked oil, a little low, added some. Scanned codes-got something about the immobilizer, fuel pump no signal, 2 misfires. Ok, last time I cleared codes was months ago, so those could all be old. Start by seafoaming. Seafoam in, lots of white smoke, kill the engine, wait. Go to start it back up and wont run higher than 200rpm and arrow on the dash is flashing randomly. Wait a little longer, wont start at all.
I replaced 2 coilpacks-the 2 the scanner indicated as misfires, still no start. Added about 5 gallons of fuel to the tank, still no start.
So here I am with my only car out of service hoping you guys can give me some idea as to where to go next.
 

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I'm trying to think of the basics - vacuum lines and ground wires ok?
Battery & alternator in good condition?
Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are fouled?

If all the "spark" related items are ok, move on to fuel related items.

I am in Ashburn, so if you are still having trouble this weekend I can swing by and help troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im thinking its fuel. When I press the schrader valve on the fuel rail, there is no resistance and no fuel comes out.
Tried shorting the fuel pump relay with a paperclip but still wont crank. How do I disconnect the fuel filter? I want to try cranking with that off and see if fuel comes out.
 

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Okay will it not CRANK or will it not fire? Big difference.

If it won't CRANK you need to check: immobalizer, key, ignition, battery, alternator, battery cables.

If it won't FIRE: Air, Fuel, Spark....figure out what of the 3 is the issues. Spark, pull a plug ground and crank, easy enough. Fuel, check pressure, easy enough. Air...unplug maf, etc.


Fuel wise, when you turn the key to on can someone in the back hear the fuel pump come on? the relay is the first thing to check, as you have. Filter, and finally the actual pump. Something kinda weird which honestly can work sometimes, while you crank have someone bang on the gas tank with a wrench, not too hard obviously, but enough to shock the pump a lil...amazingly this works more than you'd think.
 

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I'm trying to think of the basics - vacuum lines and ground wires ok?
Battery & alternator in good condition?
Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are fouled?

If all the "spark" related items are ok, move on to fuel related items.

I am in Ashburn, so if you are still having trouble this weekend I can swing by and help troubleshoot.
Very cool, what a great community this is!
 

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Okay will it not CRANK or will it not fire? Big difference.

If it won't CRANK you need to check: immobalizer, key, ignition, battery, alternator, battery cables.

If it won't FIRE: Air, Fuel, Spark....figure out what of the 3 is the issues. Spark, pull a plug ground and crank, easy enough. Fuel, check pressure, easy enough. Air...unplug maf, etc.
Great, broken down in simple terms, which is always wanted when frustration sets it.
 

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$5 on fuel pump.
 

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Well hang on dude, before you do that, just bang on the bottom of the fuel tank while someone else is cranking. When my fuel pump was going, that fixed it for a couple days.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
With fuel filter disconnected, fuel comes out in position 2. After 2 hours taking the rear seats out, those access panels under the seat go nowhere
It will start and run for about 3 seconds and then die.
 

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I was having similar problems on my 2000R recently, ended up being a bad MAF sensor. It was throwing multiple codes, hard to start and rough idle before it died, but ran a little bit longer with feathering. Try unplugging the MAf sensor and see if it runs!
 

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With the problems that you're describing, I'd take a few minutes to
verify solid system voltage. Search "Voltage Drop" and have a look.
All manner of issues have been reported when these cars get power starved.
And the '00's have a reputation for B+ cables to the fuse box going bad.

If you've got good power, some extra info on your codes might help.
Any more detail on the immobilizer code that it was throwing?
I'm not positive, but I'd hazard a guess that the system shuts
off your fuel supply if it thinks it's being stolen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm gonna go mess with it some tomorrow. I'll report back
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I got it to start and run for a little while as an NA by disconnecting the tube from the intercooler to the TB and spraying some TB cleaner in like starter fluid. I let it run for about 5 minutes and then killed it, now it wont start again.
Any ideas?
 

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Do one thing at time and quit spraying a bunch of stuff in there. Check your electrical like suggested above. Go to Autozone or wherever and rent a fuel pressure gauge and check pressure and residual pressure.

I'm currently having starting issues on my 99R. I'm pretty sure mine is a bad check valve on the fuel pump. I'm not having any driveability issues or CELs, just doesn't always start up right away and seems like I need to prime the system a minute before starting.

Pulling your TB tube does more than just run it as NA, it completely removes all metering of air. Surprised it ran at all.

Edit: just watched your video. That's not what I'm experiencing right now. That looked more like what I experienced with a bad MAF. But I also had a MAF code to go with it. Or a really bad vacuum leak (like when I blew off an intercooler tube).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I pulled the ETM today and cleaned it really good. I cleaned the MAF yesterday with no improvement. I have unplugged the MAF several times with no change in how it runs.
I'll go rent a fuel pressure tester once its all back together and check that and report.
 

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ETM also usually throws codes also but can act this way. VIDA would be helpful here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Everything reassembled with the ETM cleaned. Sounded closer to starting than before. I also disconnected the fuel rail and tilted the fuel line into a bowl and turned the key. A little bit came out when I turned it to the run position and a LOT came out when I cranked it over, so its getting fuel, just dont know if its enough.
I will hit the junkyard up and try a used MAF first before I drop $300 on a part it may not need. What other cars use the same part number?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update to this:
I got a MAF and FP relay from the junkyard this weekend and installed them today with the same results, so either one or both of those is bad or that wasnt the problem.
I CAN hear the fuel pump prime now.
I would go to the immobilizer next if it started right up and then died, and it wasnt running like **** before this.
 
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