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Getting ready to replace the rear brake shoes on my ‘63 122. I haven’t done it before and am looking for any advice from you all. Do I absolutely need the hub removal tool? What else should I be replacing while in there and what other parts should I have just in case? I want to do the job over the weekend and would rather have spare parts to return than have her up on a jack while having to order more parts. Thanks!
 

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Jeff;

Yes, you ABSOLUTELY need a Drum-Puller of the approved design (there are multiple ones, but there are also types which should NOT be used!), and you should use the time-tested, and developed removal method (see link), because depending on how tightly the Drumhub was stretched on at last installation, determined by torque on Drumnut (and this torque is not specified, and because it must be additionally tightened for Cotter-pin alignment), you may run into an easy one OR a miserably tight one, needing "irresistible removal force"...! Suggested reading: https://www.sw-em.com/Brake_Drum_Notes.htm

If you have replacement shoes, you should be set (be certain you install Leading/Trailing shoes correctly! See: https://www.sw-em.com/brake_notes.htm#front_shoe_rear_shoe )...obviously check for hydraulic leaks at wheel cylinder, and I'd recommend chamferring away Wear-lip while Drum is off, and also freeing and reworking Adjusters with graphite grease while Drums are removed. See: https://www.sw-em.com/service notes.htm#Braking System ...and while you're in there, I'd check those E-Brake Cables also...as a single hydraulic system, it should be working and well adjusted, as besides steering for a target of least damage and danger, it is your "Plan B" if hydraulics system fails...but you knew that!

Good Hunting!
 

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Getting ready to replace the rear brake shoes on my ‘63 122. I haven’t done it before and am looking for any advice from you all. Do I absolutely need the hub removal tool? What else should I be replacing while in there and what other parts should I have just in case? I want to do the job over the weekend and would rather have spare parts to return than have her up on a jack while having to order more parts. Thanks!
Hi! i have just done a full overhaul of the entire braking system, including the rear drums. yes, you will need a puller. i used a fairy generic one that has three arms which can be attached to three lug studs. then the main screw pushes on the spindle. I got a set of used drums from joe lazenby, but they are now available new i think from classicvolvorestoration.com and others at a reasonable price. I went scorched earth on this one and got new cylinders, adjusters, shoes, hardware, cables, hard lines, castle nuts (old ones were cracked) and split pins. having the new stuff definitely made it all a lot easier, but the spindle threads did require some extensive work to make them take the new nuts as they were quite mangled. a 7/8-14 split die and good thread file with a 14 were what it took.

Good luck!

Carissa
Linda Grey, 1966 122s
 
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