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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My S60 has a small but steady coolant leak going on. Didn’t have time to pin down the exact spot, but it’s dripping from the passenger side, directly below the radiator. Might be a simple connection issue, but I didn’t see anything obvious. I’ll find out tomorrow when I have some time to get under it and pull the plastic away to get a close look.

I can do a radiator replacement myself, but I read somewhere that the a/c system also has to be purged and recharged when you pull the radiator. I haven’t looked into any how-to vids or instructions yet, but for those that have replaced a radiator on a 2.5T motor, is this true?

Thanks in advance for any informed opinions.. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't think you need to disconnect the A/C lines. The condenser can be tossed and attached while the radiator is out of the car. I believe most prefer removing the radiator from the bottom which requires lifting the car a good 12 inch or so.
I’ve got ramps, so I should have plenty of clearance from the bottom. I think you’re saying the condenser can stay attached...

The AC system does not need to be opened.
..and you agree as well. I wonder what I’m reading concerning the a/c system..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’m in the middle of doing the replacement and I just wanna say... holy hell is it tight in that nose lol!

I also want to say, that whoever installed the banjo clamps on the radiator and intercooler hoses on this car, is a mean, mean bastard, and put every single one of them on so that it was as hard as possible to put a 7mm wrench on the bolt. Every... single... one.. is absolutely at the worst position out of the possible 360 degrees. Forget about a screwdriver. This is intentionally sadistic, I tell you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First time doing a job always takes the longest, but I had the radiator in and put back together by Saturday evening.

I wound up with a Nissans radiator, only because there was some question about the Behr my local shop had sourced for me. When I got it home I looked more closely at the part number label..



Just to double check I called them and had them confirm that this was supposed to go on a 2.5T, and because they weren’t 100% sure I swapped it for the Nissens.



I wound up pulling the radiator out from the bottom. I used a floor jack to support the condenser and the intercooler. The car was on ramps, but I wound up jacking it even higher to give myself more room to pull the radiator down.

Buttoned up and idling, got the coolant level back up after about 20 minutes, and it was nice to have a non-leaky Volvo again..



Sunday the Santa Ana winds kicked in and brought temps in the 90’s, so did a loop up through Malibu and back, in the canyons and then back down the PCH in heavy traffic, so it passed the road test. The old radiator doesn’t have any obvious cracks, it just seems to be coming from somewhere along the seam on the passenger side.

My only regret - given how tightly packed it is in the nose, I could’ve gone ahead and put in a newer intercooler, a “while you’re there” kind of upgrade, but it won’t take me as long next time to work on it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I seem to be talking to myself in this thread, lol, I probably clearly look like the rookie I am with this stuff!

In that spirit, I had another question - granted, I may not have gotten all the air out of the system, because I’ve only done about 100 miles since the replacement.. but it seems like I’ve had to top off the water and coolant wayyy too much since replacing the radiator.

It’s frustrating because I see ZERO evidence of a leak anywhere - no drips under the car, nothing along the hoses or clamps, bottom of radiator is clean and bone dry... no evidence of the heater core leaking, no lingering wet or sweet smell in the cabin.. the car is running strongly, and with no weird smoke from the exhaust, so I doubt it’s getting in the combustion chamber.. just no sign of any issues, except that the coolant level will be very low after driving it, with an almost empty reservoir, and needing to be topped off.

I think there’s one coolant line going to the turbo so I’m keeping an eye on that, because if that’s leaking, it might be burning off immediately on the hot turbo, but I’m not smelling anything or seeing any smoke from under the hood.

I’ve got a buddy that’s a tech, but not for Volvo, and after a couple tries with us checking everything, and letting the car idle for an hour while doing that, he doubts it’s leaking, but agrees that under load there *might* be a chance it’s coming out somewhere and we can’t see any evidence easily.

We’ll do a coolant system pressure check, but for guys that know these cars, is there any obvious (hidden) place I should look that might be leaking?

Thanks all 🙏🏽
 

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Is there a point up high to bleed out the air? Look for a cooling line that you can disconnect that is up quite high. Only do this with the engine off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is there a point up high to bleed out the air? Look for a cooling line that you can disconnect that is up quite high. Only do this with the engine off.
We tried that. Filled it to max at cold, and all seems fine.. until you drive it.

Yesterday I had idling for an hour, switching between max a/c and full heat, and the system was fine. But if you drive it, it will lose coolant, so it’s only happening under load.

Again, I’ll guess that if the turbo coolant line leaks as I drive, whatever is leaking out immediately evaporates once it hits the turbo housing and the cat. But I see zero evidence of sprayed coolant on the firewall or anywhere around there, so that still seems unlikely.

I remain stumped, as does my friend, a trained mechanic who has been with me as I check it out. Last attempt will be a coolant pressure test, but I need the correct adapter. If that fails, off to a trained Volvo tech it goes.
 

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Put the right front tire up on a curb so that the reservoir becomes the highest point? Rev a bit to get the coolant to flow more rapidly and break loose air bubbles.

Would stick with very short trips until all the air bleeds out.
 

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I doubt this is an air pocket problem. Those cooling systems are not very prone to them at all. No special filling tools or procedures like some other cars.

When I replace a radiator, I first overfill the reservoir. I let it run in my bay while I put away my tools. The level usually drops within 10 minutes. I top it off then take it for a drive, about two miles. I bring coolant with me. It might drop again, at which point I top it off and that's all it takes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I doubt it’s an air pocket at this point either.

At someone else’s suggestion, I replaced the coolant cap. It’s one of the few obvious things left it might be that I didn’t check. Can’t hurt.
 
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