SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

Forum Discussions about this Product

1 - 4 of 4 Posts
    1. · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      248 Posts
      DrB, I'm actually in the middle of doing that right now (it's a FWD V70, which means all but two of the rear suspension bushings are the same as on the AWD/R models). I've been pressing out the bushings using a combination of a 20-ton hydraulic press from Harbor Freight, and a ball joint kit from Amazon. So far I've got all the bushings out of both spindles, and while the HF press is great, the weird contours of the spindles are such that I've been primarily using the ball joint kit (hard to get always get the proper clearance for the press arm).

      Subframe DEFINITELY has to be dropped if you want to replace the upper control arm bushings; dropping the subframe will also make it much easier to remove the front toe control arm bushings. It's been pretty slow going for me on this project, but that's mainly because I've only been able to squeeze in an hour or two a couple nights a week after work. Right now, I'm trying to find a local machine shop that will make some delrin bushings for the three upper control arm attachment points, and the inner LCA bushing, as well (since there's no poly version available for FWD vehicles). My concern is that, with all other positions replaced with poly, OEM UCA bushings (even if freshly installed) won't hold up very well (and given that the front UCA bushings on both sides of my car were totally thrashed, I'm suspecting that these positions do seem a fair amount of stress).

      Biggest surprise so far; while taking apart the passenger side, I found that the bushings/arms were under virtually NO preload, whereas the driver side was clearly under tension. I'm thinking that this (along with the thrashed bushings) is *hopefully* the source of my weird, passenger-side sidehop-type issue. Will see once we get it all buttoned up and back on the road.
       
    2. · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      2,417 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #13 ·
      Since only the front UCA bushing has gaps in it, I don't think the "fill" method would be very efficacious (since the rear and hub-side UCA bushings are solid/gap-less rubber). Making molds is certainly an idea, but I'd venture to guess that it would wind up costing more than having a shop machine some delrin bushings (and since I'd be totally new to molding bushings, I have a feeling that I'd end up spending way too much time--and, perhaps, money--in the prototyping/figuring things out stage). At this point, if I can't get a shop to make some delrin bushings, I'll just press in some new OEMs, and use the Powerflex poly insert on the front UCA bushing.
      I'm thinking that filling the one large bushing that has gaps, could greatly reduce side hop. And there's also probably a way to fill in the subframe bushings in the rear too.

      DrB, I'm actually in the middle of doing that right now (it's a FWD V70, which means all but two of the rear suspension bushings are the same as on the AWD/R models). I've been pressing out the bushings using a combination of a 20-ton hydraulic press from Harbor Freight, and a ball joint kit from Amazon. So far I've got all the bushings out of both spindles, and while the HF press is great, the weird contours of the spindles are such that I've been primarily using the ball joint kit (hard to get always get the proper clearance for the press arm).

      Subframe DEFINITELY has to be dropped if you want to replace the upper control arm bushings; dropping the subframe will also make it much easier to remove the front toe control arm bushings. It's been pretty slow going for me on this project, but that's mainly because I've only been able to squeeze in an hour or two a couple nights a week after work. Right now, I'm trying to find a local machine shop that will make some delrin bushings for the three upper control arm attachment points, and the inner LCA bushing, as well (since there's no poly version available for FWD vehicles). My concern is that, with all other positions replaced with poly, OEM UCA bushings (even if freshly installed) won't hold up very well (and given that the front UCA bushings on both sides of my car were totally thrashed, I'm suspecting that these positions do seem a fair amount of stress).

      Biggest surprise so far; while taking apart the passenger side, I found that the bushings/arms were under virtually NO preload, whereas the driver side was clearly under tension. I'm thinking that this (along with the thrashed bushings) is *hopefully* the source of my weird, passenger-side sidehop-type issue. Will see once we get it all buttoned up and back on the road.
      Thanks for the help!
       
    1. · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      627 Posts
      Great pic's, Looks like you took full advantage of the long weekend.

      I'm sure that this will help a few others here.

      As 142 guys points out, most of us don't have a 50 ton press, or room for one in the garage either.

      But I do see that it is available at Harbor Freight for $800 clams, and the bearing separator for $30

      https://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html

      They also have a 12 ton press for 120 bucks but I'm not sure if 25 inches is enough working distance, 20 ton press for $180 that has a 32" distance, but i'm guessing that 32" is close to the limit,

      https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html

      Shelbyk, how long is the axle ?

      so perhaps for $210-$230 worth of tools if your doing a few bearing jobs could be worth the investment
       
    2. · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      627 Posts
      D'OH! The one thing I didn't do was measure the axle.. Looking at my man's arm next to it... I would have to say the one with 25" capability would be a no go.. With the hub and everything it's DEFINITELY over 25" and I'm thinking the 32" might not cut it either..
      I just measured my '73 142 rear axle. From the tip of the wheel studs, to the center of the differential is 29", I know that there is very little space in the center where the half axles end, maybe an inch, so the half shafts are 28.5" - 29" So smallest harbor freight press that would work would be the 20 ton #32879, I'll have a look at it next time I'm at HF and see what the foot print is, and measure and confirm the working distance. It would be a handy tool for pushing out suspension bushings, as well as bearings

      https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html
       
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

Forum Reviews

Be the first to review this product

Write a Review

Do you have experience with this item? Help our community members and share your knowledge.

Sign in to add review

Top