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7,668 Posts
I used a big block of wood on a jack to lift the engine by the oil pan. Although, next time I drop the subframe I'm buying this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar
$85 USD on Harbor Freight Tools
Constructed of heavy-duty powder coated steel for durability, the 1000 lb. capacity engine support bar lets you work on heavy automotive repairs such as removing the transmission or transaxle. The engine support bar comes with everything needed to perform work on your engine or transmission, including a steel beam. The rubber padded support legs prevent slips as well as damage to paint.
Supports engine or transmission in place during repairs
Dual hook assemblies for balanced support
Adjustment screw for load leveling
Rubber cushioned support legs prevent damage to paint
All steel construction
Powder coat finish
1000 lb. maximum working load
Forum Discussions about this Product
1 - 10 of 27 Posts
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Joined·7,668 PostsHarbor freight has the engine hanger you want, at a reasonable price. I wasted about 2 hours and almost the same amount of money building my own homebrew unit with less functionality. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
if you want less downtime for the car, you could grab a junkyard subframe, shouldn't be all that expensive. Then you could wash it all up and install the bushings, mounts, and swaybar on it. Then on job day you drop the old one, swap control arms, and bolt it back up.
And if you find a C70 convertible subframe, it'll already have aluminum subframe bushings and you won't have to buy or install delrin ones.
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Joined·7,668 Posts1) I've done it both ways, and I recommend dropping it out the bottom, without removing the motor at all. Hang the motor on an engine support: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html you don't even have to drain the coolant.
2) It should be a dual mass flywheel, I'd get the right specs. On the other hand I'd convert to single mass flywheel, but that's just me. If it's NA it might have single mass, in which case yes it's the same specs and instructions as an 850.
3) It's as straightforward as any other seal. gotta lube it and put it in straight, but there are no tricks or complications.
If you have the internal slave cylinder you need to replace that too, as they're known to be not-so-reliable and it's inside the bell housing as well. And it usually ruins your new clutch with fluid if it fails. I also recommend new transmission seals, which are also fairly cheap.
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Joined·1,660 Postshttp://www.harborfreight.com/automo...000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
I'm not a big fan of harbor freight, but in a pinch.....especially if your not going to be using it too often.
As I said, I used a heavy bar and chain with wood blocks to support the bar over the front upper shock mounts.
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Joined·7,668 PostsYou are supposed to remove the engine mount bolts on the PASSENGER (oops) side (and maybe the one in the front) and lift the engine which will move enough to open up access to the bolts. Do you have the engine support bar that can hang the motor from above? If you plan to work on FWD cars yourself it's an incredibly valuable tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
They take a huge torque so you do need the room to get in there. 77 ft-lb (105 nm) plus 90 degrees. I cheated and did them while the engine was out of the car.
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Joined·7,668 PostsIt's actually not bad at all. Step 1 is to buy an over-engine support bar like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html I have this exact one and it works great, used it several times on several different cars. Hang the engine by chains and it'll dangle there safely while the whole support drops out.
The subframe is not that heavy, nowhere near your guess. It's easy to lower it one side at a time if all the bolts are out. Just drop each side clear of the locating pins onto jack stands and then you can just hold it by the control arm and kick the stands out. Then slide it out from under the car.
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In order to replace the front sway bar. I don't have one so I picked up the last one in the store. Psyched
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
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Hi What size engine bar do I need, will 1450mm do, as that is what I can find in the UK for a good price, were is the best place to mount it on the Volvo just past were the wings bolt on ?
Thanks Dave
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Joined·820 PostsIt was this one, so it looks like it's 59" wide. It actually went from one corner of the bay to the other corner, so no problems there. I'm willing to be the engine bay dimensions of that wagon aren't different than the 90 in that respect.
If you end up getting the support bar from HF, don't forget to bring one of those "20% off any one item" coupons with you.
The tension on the control arms is because their bushings are solid and don't swivel. So, unburdened, the control arms will want to stick straight out from the subframe. You can manipulate them up and down but it requires a fair amount of leverage. When you lift the car, the struts extend to full length, pushing the control arms down quite a bit. You want to disconnect them from the struts so as to relieve that tension and leave them unburdened. The straps OP used in the other thread were simply to keep the steering rack properly supported. -
Joined·511 Posts
Perfect. Engine bar ordered and with a 20% discount. Thanks for the tip!
Re the control arms and struts, if I do nothing it will just push down on the control arm which in turn will put downward force on the subframe? Presumably making it harder to work with?
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1 - 10 of 27 Posts
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