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      Harbor freight has the engine hanger you want, at a reasonable price. I wasted about 2 hours and almost the same amount of money building my own homebrew unit with less functionality. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

      if you want less downtime for the car, you could grab a junkyard subframe, shouldn't be all that expensive. Then you could wash it all up and install the bushings, mounts, and swaybar on it. Then on job day you drop the old one, swap control arms, and bolt it back up.

      And if you find a C70 convertible subframe, it'll already have aluminum subframe bushings and you won't have to buy or install delrin ones.
       
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      1) I've done it both ways, and I recommend dropping it out the bottom, without removing the motor at all. Hang the motor on an engine support: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html you don't even have to drain the coolant.

      2) It should be a dual mass flywheel, I'd get the right specs. On the other hand I'd convert to single mass flywheel, but that's just me. If it's NA it might have single mass, in which case yes it's the same specs and instructions as an 850.

      3) It's as straightforward as any other seal. gotta lube it and put it in straight, but there are no tricks or complications.

      If you have the internal slave cylinder you need to replace that too, as they're known to be not-so-reliable and it's inside the bell housing as well. And it usually ruins your new clutch with fluid if it fails. I also recommend new transmission seals, which are also fairly cheap.
       
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      You are supposed to remove the engine mount bolts on the PASSENGER (oops) side (and maybe the one in the front) and lift the engine which will move enough to open up access to the bolts. Do you have the engine support bar that can hang the motor from above? If you plan to work on FWD cars yourself it's an incredibly valuable tool:

      http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

      They take a huge torque so you do need the room to get in there. 77 ft-lb (105 nm) plus 90 degrees. I cheated and did them while the engine was out of the car.
       
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      It's actually not bad at all. Step 1 is to buy an over-engine support bar like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html I have this exact one and it works great, used it several times on several different cars. Hang the engine by chains and it'll dangle there safely while the whole support drops out.

      The subframe is not that heavy, nowhere near your guess. It's easy to lower it one side at a time if all the bolts are out. Just drop each side clear of the locating pins onto jack stands and then you can just hold it by the control arm and kick the stands out. Then slide it out from under the car.
       
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      Discussion Starter · #282 ·
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      It was this one, so it looks like it's 59" wide. It actually went from one corner of the bay to the other corner, so no problems there. I'm willing to be the engine bay dimensions of that wagon aren't different than the 90 in that respect.

      If you end up getting the support bar from HF, don't forget to bring one of those "20% off any one item" coupons with you.

      The tension on the control arms is because their bushings are solid and don't swivel. So, unburdened, the control arms will want to stick straight out from the subframe. You can manipulate them up and down but it requires a fair amount of leverage. When you lift the car, the struts extend to full length, pushing the control arms down quite a bit. You want to disconnect them from the struts so as to relieve that tension and leave them unburdened. The straps OP used in the other thread were simply to keep the steering rack properly supported.
       
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      Discussion Starter · #7 ·
      It was this one, so it looks like it's 59" wide. It actually went from one corner of the bay to the other corner, so no problems there. I'm willing to be the engine bay dimensions of that wagon aren't different than the 90 in that respect.

      If you end up getting the support bar from HF, don't forget to bring one of those "20% off any one item" coupons with you.

      The tension on the control arms is because their bushings are solid and don't swivel. So, unburdened, the control arms will want to stick straight out from the subframe. You can manipulate them up and down but it requires a fair amount of leverage. When you lift the car, the struts extend to full length, pushing the control arms down quite a bit. You want to disconnect them from the struts so as to relieve that tension and leave them unburdened. The straps OP used in the other thread were simply to keep the steering rack properly supported.
      Perfect. Engine bar ordered and with a 20% discount. Thanks for the tip!

      Re the control arms and struts, if I do nothing it will just push down on the control arm which in turn will put downward force on the subframe? Presumably making it harder to work with?
       
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