SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

XC90 oil consumption dilemma

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
C

comrade

· Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi
Been a while, was riding it trouble free.
Recently developed that oil consumption problem, mine is 2016 xc90 with now 80k miles. When i reported it to the dealership and volvo, i had about 78k. So they said i just tad out of extended warranty and have to pay for oil test(600 or so) and then MAYBE volvo pick up a tab to change pistons.
I did the engine flush, that helped a little, but still, 600 miles cost me probably half a quart.
Strangely indicator drops suddenly, you drive home with maybe missing 3 bars, next time you start, it is half gone.
So what do you guys think, should i try my luck or keep adding oil until it finally breaks and buy Toyota?
 
#2 ·
comrade said:
Hi
Been a while, was riding it trouble free.
Recently developed that oil consumption problem, mine is 2016 xc90 with now 80k miles. When i reported it to the dealership and volvo, i had about 78k. So they said i just tad out of extended warranty and have to pay for oil test(600 or so) and then MAYBE volvo pick up a tab to change pistons.
I did the engine flush, that helped a little, but still, 600 miles cost me probably half a quart.
Strangely indicator drops suddenly, you drive home with maybe missing 3 bars, next time you start, it is half gone.
So what do you guys think, should i try my luck or keep adding oil until it finally breaks and buy Toyota?
Click to expand...
Depends on how much you’re willing to spend for an 8+ year old car. New pistons/rings will probably run $5k. If it needs a new engine, that will be $10k+. Unfortunately they will become money pits very quickly.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I am capable to do it myself, but lack special tools to hold the camshafts and some others. If they can be obtained cheap, i can try. Outsourcing the job i can do 2k at most cause i love the car, but they are all over the place for 15-17k for this year and no takers. Maybe ill just keep adding the oil and do engine flushes in between. Just concerned it might damage seals, looks like the engine flush is just diluting the oil with acetone or something:)
 
#4 ·
This gent has many
Parts
Engines

www.erievovo.com

Home - Erie Vo-Vo

Erie Vo-Vo Genuine Used Volvo Parts over 125,000 tested Used Volvo Parts in stockbuy quality parts From engines to headlights, we've got the parts to keep your ride in top shape.EXPLORE INVENTORYwe buy used vehicles Ready to sell your ride? Submit our online contact form to get a fast and fair...
www.erievovo.com www.erievovo.com
Maybe a low mileage engine replacement ?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#5 ·
On a 4 cylinder oil burner it's the cylinder walls that will eventually get wrecked. I would re-ring it as cheaply as possible and see how long the engine lasts. You might have good luck if you use the upgraded 2017+ piston rings. Also, your oil change interval needs to be shortened to the old-fashioned 5,000mi regiment.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#6 ·
The PDF is for piston/ring replacement directions. This is not an easy repair.
There is a really good chance that an exhaust valve edged will burn off due to burning oil making it glow red hot and breaking the edge off. Now you have no compression in that cylinder and added repairs. The rod cap ends are not marked. Do not mix them up or install in reverse direction. I forgot the correct term. After the rod holes are machined, the connecting rod is still one piece. They put the rod in liquid nitrogen. Put the big hole end in a special press and snap the lower half off. The exposed cast iron ends from the 2 halves have a better holding capacity that the old school machined jaw tooth ends. Plus, it saves a machine step. Reversing the cap ends does happen. It does not take long for the reverse end cap to develop a serious rod knock, cause crank and/or engine lock-up damage, you need a motor. On page 38 or 57 in pdf pages, mark the lifter buckets. Do not mix them up. The lifters are solid lifters. Each one could be a different height for that valve, valve adjustment.
Install a new timing belt kit. PDF page 67, cam collar with holes, face up. This is for cam oiling. The 2 lower ears keep the collar from spinning. If installed wrong, ears break off, collar spins and no cam oiling inside the collar.
Replace the front engine seal plastic piece, the front crank seal will leak oil.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #7 ·
I am capable to do it myself, but lack special tools to hold the camshafts and some others. If they can be obtained cheap, i can try. Outsourcing the job i can do 2k at most cause i love the car, but they are all over the place for 15-17k for this year and no takers. Maybe ill just keep adding the oil and do engine flus
volvogod said:
The PDF is for piston/ring replacement directions. This is not an easy repair.
There is a really good chance that an exhaust valve edged will burn off due to burning oil making it glow red hot and breaking the edge off. Now you have no compression in that cylinder and added repairs. The rod cap ends are not marked. Do not mix them up or install in reverse direction. I forgot the correct term. After the rod holes are machined, the connecting rod is still one piece. They put the rod in liquid nitrogen. Put the big hole end in a special press and snap the lower half off. The exposed cast iron ends from the 2 halves have a better holding capacity that the old school machined jaw tooth ends. Plus, it saves a machine step. Reversing the cap ends does happen. It does not take long for the reverse end cap to develop a serious rod knock, cause crank and/or engine lock-up damage, you need a motor. On page 38 or 57 in pdf pages, mark the lifter buckets. Do not mix them up. The lifters are solid lifters. Each one could be a different height for that valve, valve adjustment.
Install a new timing belt kit. PDF page 67, cam collar with holes, face up. This is for cam oiling. The 2 lower ears keep the collar from spinning. If installed wrong, ears break off, collar spins and no cam oiling inside the collar.
Replace the front engine seal plastic piece, the front crank seal will leak oil.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot,ill go thru it. Agreed not an easy taks
 
#8 ·
Looks like many things can go wrong. If you can do it yourself and you have the time, I would trust that over some shop. There have been stories posted on here about engines not working properly after ring replacement, probably because some minor detail was not followed from the TJ.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Ill probably do few more BG ERP engine flushes, first one seem to help a bit. If volvo wont pick up a tab, ill be out 600, for that i can do quite a few oil changes. For about 60 a pop, 10 changes every 5k twice a year..assuming it will not blow up - another 5 years instead of trying my luck, which is not very good:) ill try with volvo corporate again, unless they will pick test - will probably skip it and report later with more results after the next flush.
First change i overfilled a bit i think, nothing happened for the first 600 miles. Once i noticed it dropped, i reset the trip meter, now at about 700 indicator dropped for tad less than 1/4, that would be about 200-250ml? In this case id have a quart for 2.5k miles. Still bad, for the time i owned it, didnt loose any at all.
Just an observation, old oil, after about 5k(didnt drive it much) was really black. Dealer always changed it...
 
#10 ·
If you like and would drive the car then $600 to find out if Volvo would pay the cost of a piston/ring job seems like a good choice. Otherwise drive it until the oil consumption is significant and then sell. Don’t spend all the time and money on a home repair.
 
#11 · (Edited)
What oil have you been using? If an oil flush seemed to help, then you may be able to further reduce consumption by using a 'high mileage' oil designed free up stuck rings. Or even Valvoline's 'Restore & Protect" might be worth a try before going to an engine rebuild. Though I am very curious to see someone pull apart an engine with ~75k miles to see how much gunk is built up on the valves.
 
#12 ·
The best option in this case is to do a Berrymans B12 piston soak. Easy to do and may free up the rings to stop the oil consumption problem. This is the preferred method for the Audi guys who have stuck piston rings and has helped out numerous people. Very easy to do on the XC90 unlike the V6 audi. Valvoline R&P won’t do much good for the rings if it’s caked real bad.
 
#13 ·
Trixstar said:
The best option in this case is to do a Berrymans B12 piston soak. Easy to do and may free up the rings to stop the oil consumption problem. This is the preferred method for the Audi guys who have stuck piston rings and has helped out numerous people. Very easy to do on the XC90 unlike the V6 audi. Valvoline R&P won’t do much good for the rings if it’s caked real bad.
Click to expand...
I myself am a B12 evangelist. I believe a can cost me $12 and the results were amazing.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#14 ·
Trixstar said:
The best option in this case is to do a Berrymans B12 piston soak. Easy to do and may free up the rings to stop the oil consumption problem. This is the preferred method for the Audi guys who have stuck piston rings and has helped out numerous people. Very easy to do on the XC90 unlike the V6 audi. Valvoline R&P won’t do much good for the rings if it’s caked real bad.
Click to expand...
A more direct chemical soak could also help. Would be interesting to see a compression & leak down test before & after.

1/2qt every 600miles is basically 1 cent per mile. Even a cheap rebuild is going to cost the same as enough oil to get you to 300k miles.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I am using liqui moly tec v 0w-20. I might do piston soak next, i heard it gets good results. Will drive for another few K's and see.
Oh, and its a good idea to make a compression test as well. Any tips on how to do it, anything special?
 
#16 · (Edited)
comrade said:
I am using liqui moly tec v 0w-20. I might do piston soak next, i heard it gets good results. Will drive for another few K's and see.
Oh, and its a good idea to make a compression test as well. Any tips on how to do it, anything special?
Click to expand...
Ick. Swap that old oil out for an API SP rated synthetic. A 'High Mileage' oil like Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage might help with oil consumption. Castrol Edge High mileage if you want to lean towards Volvo's brand allegiance.

For someone claiming they might do an engine rebuild themselves....I assumed you might have experience doing compression tests. I applaud your confidence.
 
#17 ·
comrade said:
I am using liqui moly tec v 0w-20. I might do piston soak next, i heard it gets good results. Will drive for another few K's and see.
Oh, and its a good idea to make a compression test as well. Any tips on how to do it, anything special?
Click to expand...
You might spend the 600 bucks and get Volvo to measure the oil usage. Then you will have real data about the problem and can pick the right solution. And after the test Volvo might pay to fix the problem mechanically. If Volvo won’t pay then you can decide whether to pay for the piston/ring job or try a chemical cleaning.

This to keep you from just jumping at solutions because of price.
 
  • Like
Reactions: klr142
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#18 ·
Delmarva said:
You might spend the 600 bucks and get Volvo to measure the oil usage. Then you will have real data about the problem and can pick the right solution. And after the test Volvo might pay to fix the problem mechanically. If Volvo won’t pay then you can decide whether to pay for the piston/ring job or try a chemical cleaning.

This to keep you from just jumping at solutions because of price.
Click to expand...
I'd like to know what the chances Volvo will pay for these repairs and why it's a 'maybe'. The fact that they aren't sure whether they would cover the repair I would take as 99% chance of not covering.
 
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
About this Discussion
55 Replies
16 Participants
Last post:
BenjaminD
SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum
posts
4.1M
members
190K
Since
2000
A forum community dedicated to Volvo owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, new releases, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
R Forum (2004-2007) S40 & V50 (2005-2012) XC90 (SPA: 2016 - ) S60, S60CC & V60, V60CC (2011-2018) XC90 (2003 - 2014)

Top Contributors this Month

View All

Recommended Communities

Community avatar for Bimmerfest BMW
Bimmerfest BMW
852K members
Community avatar for The EX30
The EX30
30 members
Community avatar for Volvo EV Forum
Volvo EV Forum
1K members