Does anyone know when Volvo updated the turbo check valve with the ball for the newer X diaphragm type? I have an 2006 T5 and i suspect it might be the problem as i am chasing a P2218 and i have checked everything else.
Turbo check valve replacement
Moodytico
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What are you calling the turbo check valve? Have you replaced anything. How long until the code returns. Do you have loss of power or limited boost when the check engine message is displayed. Below is from VIDA for ECM 640a.
Check "possible source" below.
The code is P2281 or ECM 640C
P2281 = ECM-640C Turbocharger (TC) control Signal too high
ECM-640C Turbocharger (TC) control system. Signal too high, B5254T3
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information ECM-640C
Condition
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the ratio between the measured boost pressure (measured value from the boost pressure sensor before the throttle) and the calculated boost pressure (calculated value after the throttle) is incorrect.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can be diagnosed when the engine is running and the turbocharger (TC) control system is not active.
Substitute value
Reduced boost pressure.
Possible source
Air leakage downstream of the turbocharger (TC) (between the turbocharger (TC) and the electronic throttle unit)
The boost pressure sensor has come loose (measures the atmospheric pressure)
Damaged boost pressure sensor.
Damaged check valve to crankcase ventilation.
Check "possible source" below.
The code is P2281 or ECM 640C
P2281 = ECM-640C Turbocharger (TC) control Signal too high
ECM-640C Turbocharger (TC) control system. Signal too high, B5254T3
Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information ECM-640C
Condition
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the ratio between the measured boost pressure (measured value from the boost pressure sensor before the throttle) and the calculated boost pressure (calculated value after the throttle) is incorrect.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can be diagnosed when the engine is running and the turbocharger (TC) control system is not active.
Substitute value
Reduced boost pressure.
Possible source
Air leakage downstream of the turbocharger (TC) (between the turbocharger (TC) and the electronic throttle unit)
The boost pressure sensor has come loose (measures the atmospheric pressure)
Damaged boost pressure sensor.
Damaged check valve to crankcase ventilation.
Volvo part number
30677524. It's commonly listed as PCV check valve and located on the top of the turbo next to turbo inlet. Supposedly some models had ball check valve that could get corroded causing the 2218 code. I have the upgraded version which has a diaphragm instead. I have not installed it yet.
I replaced the TCV with the factory unit and installed all new colored lines so all good there. All hoses were replaced with snaab silicone hoses and clamps and snaab intake pipe.
I have checked and re checked all connections and pressure tested the system. Initially I detected a small leak at the turbo outlet which I fixed.
The car runs fine but will not boost over 5 pounds. I can drive the car for two or three days and no CEL. After spirited driving, i park the car and next time I start it CEL comes on. When the CEL is cleared VIDA does not detect anything. I will attempt to run a scan today with the CEL on to see what VIDA says.
The PCV system was replaced last year with the new hoses on the head. Vacuum hoses are in good shape and I did not detect any leaks there.
I have not replaced boost sensor yet... Before replacing the PCV check valve was just wanting to know if the 2006 had the old style ball valve.
30677524. It's commonly listed as PCV check valve and located on the top of the turbo next to turbo inlet. Supposedly some models had ball check valve that could get corroded causing the 2218 code. I have the upgraded version which has a diaphragm instead. I have not installed it yet.
I replaced the TCV with the factory unit and installed all new colored lines so all good there. All hoses were replaced with snaab silicone hoses and clamps and snaab intake pipe.
I have checked and re checked all connections and pressure tested the system. Initially I detected a small leak at the turbo outlet which I fixed.
The car runs fine but will not boost over 5 pounds. I can drive the car for two or three days and no CEL. After spirited driving, i park the car and next time I start it CEL comes on. When the CEL is cleared VIDA does not detect anything. I will attempt to run a scan today with the CEL on to see what VIDA says.
The PCV system was replaced last year with the new hoses on the head. Vacuum hoses are in good shape and I did not detect any leaks there.
I have not replaced boost sensor yet... Before replacing the PCV check valve was just wanting to know if the 2006 had the old style ball valve.
Attachments
The check valve is blue in 2nd pic. The tube connects to the intake manifold behind the throttle plate. I have never replaced this part or even know that there was a check valve there.
Install the valve and see what happens. It does sound like you do have an over boost issue and the system is going into limp mode to protect the system.
Look in Design and Function for more information about how the systems work. Others here may more input about the valve.
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Install the valve and see what happens. It does sound like you do have an over boost issue and the system is going into limp mode to protect the system.
Look in Design and Function for more information about how the systems work. Others here may more input about the valve.
Any updates?
Joined
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24 Posts
Hi @Moodytico I have bought a valve from IPD. I wonder how you replaced it. Did you have to loosen the clamp first to disconnect it from hose, then pull the pipe out before loosen the 19mm valve? I know it has no thread but a O-ring at the other end of valve. Thanks!
Joined
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963 Posts
You undo the hoseclamp to disconnect the rubber tube that connects to the tube/valve and then remove the valve by unscrewing it with the small pipe attached.
The small aluminum tube that is in the valve van be removed by shimming a piece of aluminum, such as a coke can, between the valve and the small aluminum tube. Think of it like a shark bite fitting.
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24 Posts
Joined
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963 Posts
@Dan1216 Here are some images of the DIY shim-tool to get the pipe to disconnect. It may be slightly stuck due to grime so soaking it in wd40/penetrating oil or brakecleaner may help.
However, one thing to note is: Is the valve the ball style or is it a set of rubber flaps? If it is the ball style the general consensus is that they aren't usually bad. If it is the valve I would consider soaking the entire valve and tube together in something that can remove carbon build up. I suppose something like brake cleaner would work.
METAL-BALL STYLE = GOOD. RUBBER FLAP = BAD.
If I remember right when using the "special tool" I sorta just wedged it in there and rotated everything back and forth with slight pressure. You may have to press and pull back and forth if the "sharkbite" is grabbed on. (pulling harder only makes it tighter.)
Push tube in slightly - insert shim - twist pipe and valve valve and forth (potentially while trying to insert shim as well) - begin trying to pull tube out.
(Credit Facusan for images below)
![Image]()
![Image]()
However, one thing to note is: Is the valve the ball style or is it a set of rubber flaps? If it is the ball style the general consensus is that they aren't usually bad. If it is the valve I would consider soaking the entire valve and tube together in something that can remove carbon build up. I suppose something like brake cleaner would work.
METAL-BALL STYLE = GOOD. RUBBER FLAP = BAD.
If I remember right when using the "special tool" I sorta just wedged it in there and rotated everything back and forth with slight pressure. You may have to press and pull back and forth if the "sharkbite" is grabbed on. (pulling harder only makes it tighter.)
Push tube in slightly - insert shim - twist pipe and valve valve and forth (potentially while trying to insert shim as well) - begin trying to pull tube out.
(Credit Facusan for images below)
Joined
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24 Posts
Thanks. I bought new one exactly like the one on the car. I did make the shimming “tool” like it but maybe it is too thin. When I pull, the pipe lodges into the metal locking ring. I assume the shim should be between pipe and locking ring to let it pulled through. I ended up using brake cleaning and degreaser to clean the valve before putting it back. I was suspicious of thin layer of oil leaking from camseal and thought valve is blocked to have crankcase pressure built up. Otherwise, the car is running great. The gas mileage actually improved since I replaced oil filter housing.
I just went with a totally different style of check valve for my new build.
Joined
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963 Posts
What are you running?
Improved Racing -10 ORB check valve
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