Any change to do following new injectors? Swapped in the Beck and Arnley ones result in pinging and bucking

Dalsim007 · Nov 26, 2022

craig300 said:
Ron, I had cross referenced the ECU’s on Dr DJet, so given the source, hard to doubt. Agree that probably doesn’t have an impact on the current problem. But always good to “know what you have”.

Dalsim, are you sure the fuel is clean? No sediment in the tank and fuel filter doing it’s job? Would be worth a new, correct fuel filter: they’re different between the 70-71 and 72+. Also might be worth blowing out the fuel and return lines from front to back while disconnected. Do that outside. And how’s your ground strap from the bell housing to the frame rail? Worth cleaning those connections too, and some ACZP.

Engine and transmission grounds are good. I had replaced the fuel filter 2 years ago (about 5k miles on it) with the proper small filter for 1971 (previous mechanic had used a 1972-73 style big metal filter). Fuel lines and hoses were nice and clean at that time. Fuel tank was replaced also 7-8 years ago by a reproduction one. Can has run every summer since then, and was always winter stored with full tank and stabilizer in it. So I don't think the tank would be an issue on this.

Once ignition and TPS issues are sorted and if issue persist on bucking, I'll reach to Mike Dudek at IRoll. At 325 USD (with core refund), his rebuild 3 port original looks like the best way to go about it. Hopefully snow doesn't set up shop too early this December so I can still run around the street and sort it out before the deep slumber!!!

142 Guy · Nov 26, 2022

craig300 said:
Three port fuel pumps are available. I have one of these, 7 years, still running fine.

iRoll Motors Inc.

As noted, those pumps are rebuilt. One of the areas where the Bosch pumps fail is developing a fuel leak around the electrical plug connection. That is where my 3 port developed a failure. With disassembly, it may be possible to seal up that leak; but, I don't know how durable that repair is. The other failure area is the brush / commutator. Brush replacement is doable. Commutator repair can be much iffier unless you are going to the huge expense of unwinding and replacing commutator segments (not for $375 plus core charge). The rolling element pump part of the Bosch pump is probably 'last a century' reliable. If you need original then those rebuilds are the only option.

If you don't need original, consider the pump from the Nissan 1978 - 1983 280ZX. An almost exact fit (electrical terminals are different) for the 2 port Bosch pump which is an easy replacement for the 3 port pump after you cap off the over flow line to the tank. Shop around and you can find a new Nissan pump for the same price as a rebuilt Bosch pump.

If you really, really, really wanted an almost new 3 port pump, I bet you could purchase a Nissan pump and graft the motor on to the 3 port pump head. In 1976 the pump on my 142E died on me. The Volvo repair shop took a new 2 port pump off the shelf, unbolted the pump head from my 3 port and bolted it on to the 2 port pump motor body. It obviously never occurred to them to just install the 2 port pump and block off the over flow line which would have been less work; but, not original.

142 Guy · Nov 26, 2022

Dalsim007 said:
Engine and transmission grounds are good. I had replaced the fuel filter 2 years ago (about 5k miles on it) with the proper small filter for 1971 (previous mechanic had used a 1972-73 style big metal filter). Fuel lines and hoses were nice and clean at that time. Fuel tank was replaced also 7-8 years ago by a reproduction one. Can has run every summer since then, and was always winter stored with full tank and stabilizer in it. So I don't think the tank would be an issue on this.

Once ignition and TPS issues are sorted and if issue persist on bucking, I'll reach to Mike Dudek at IRoll. At 325 USD (with core refund), his rebuild 3 port original looks like the best way to go about it. Hopefully snow doesn't set up shop too early this December so I can still run around the street and sort it out before the deep slumber!!!

If the mystery fuel mixture persists, you could consider one of these.

O2 Sensor Exhaust Clamp (innovatemotorsports.com)

Combine it with something like this (AEM and others may sell less expensive versions)

MTX-L PLUS: Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit (8 Ft.) (innovatemotorsports.com)

and you can fabricate a test arrangement that would allow you to monitor your AFR while you drive and figure out where in the operating range your fuel mixture is going lean. This would give you a better handle on which D jet or engine component you need to focus on. If you dislike the exhaust clamp you could weld a bung into the exhaust pipe. The bung is cheaper and probably more accurate if installed in the down pipe after the merge; but, does require some disassembly to install.

142 Guy · Nov 26, 2022

Dalsim007 said:
At 325 USD (with core refund), his rebuild 3 port original looks like the best way to go about it. Hopefully snow doesn't set up shop too early this December so I can still run around the street and sort it out before the deep slumber!!!

I believe that is $425 which turns into $375 after you get the core refund. Add on to that your cost to ship the core back to Iroll and with current shipping costs it is questionable as to whether returning the core is a good value proposition.

This ain't my first (parts replacement) rodeo!

clarj0113 · Nov 27, 2022

Dalsim007, seems like you and I are chasing the same Gremlins (no offense to AMC).

I am using a Bosch 0 580 463 016 fuel pump in my 1971 1800E as a replacement for the original. It seems to be working fine if you consider using an alternative part. From the tank to the hose on the left in the picture, through the filter, through the pump, to the fuel supply line. Line coming back into the tank is from the fuel pressure regulator.

Dalsim007 · Nov 27, 2022

clarj0113 said:
Dalsim007, seems like you and I are chasing the same Gremlins (no offense to AMC).

I am using a Bosch 0 580 463 016 fuel pump in my 1971 1800E as a replacement for the original. It seems to be working fine if you consider using an alternative part. From the tank to the hose on the left in the picture, through the filter, through the pump, to the fuel supply line. Line coming back into the tank is from the fuel pressure regulator.
View attachment 174821

So you just removed the T split that was connecting the return line and coming the pump to tank connection. Now it is just return line to tank instead?

How is that pump for noise? Did you have to adapt the original clamp?

clarj0113 · Nov 27, 2022

Dalsim007 said:
So you just removed the T split that was connecting the return line and coming the pump to tank connection. Now it is just return line to tank instead?

How is that pump for noise? Did you have to adapt the original clamp?

I can't take credit for the installation; it was done by a PO. But that appears to be what was done, just removing the tee and return from the old three port pump. This pump diameter is a little smaller, 2.0" compared to 2.3" for the three port pump, so you would probably need a new clamp. As for noise, I can easily hear the pump come on when the ignition key is turned, otherwise I have never heard it running.

Dalsim007 · Jun 19, 2023

Reviving this.
So summer started, and I finally sorted out the outstanding issues. Many thanks to everyone on this forum for their help.

After changing distributor cap and cables, the plugs (which were quite fouled) and the injectors during the winter, car was actually worse. Which made no sense. I was thinking to check the TPS switch again (had lubricated and cleaned it up last year, but not fully adjusted) as the contact plate wasn't super duper great.

I ended up going through the full adjustment from the book, and the result was the car was working even worse...
I did replace the fuel pump with a rebuilt one from Iroll motors although the pressure seemed fine on static, and so were voltage. I thought maybe when under load, it just wasn't ramping up. And it was quite loud and buzzy... I figured, after 52 years, it wouldn't make things worse to renew it regardless... Not surprisingly, new pump and new fuel filter didn't solve it.
It was not the culprit. It was definitely more silent, but car was still bucking under acceleration.

The final culprit was the 123 distributor. It had the wrong rotor inside (a volvo dealer had changed it when it snapped, and put the wrong one in there), and I found out that 5-6 years ago, the mechanic who installed the 123 distributor did not change the timing switch inside. So the car was programmed like a carbed car, with vacuum ADVANCE, whereas the B20E are supposed to have vacuum RETARD!!!! Made the switch to the proper map, and adjusted the timing properly on the distributor (10 BTDC) according to the book. And voilà! Car runs even better than my 2006 S80 and start instantly!!

Summing up everything at issue: previous car mechanic had fiddled and made wrong settings on:
-the fuel pressure regulator
-the distributor timing (123 distributor)
-the TPS adjustment
-the Throttle valve
-the idle pin

All of this tomake the car run somewhat ok, although rich...

The one true problem the car had originally: a blocked auxiliary air valve and difficult restart when hot (no phenolic washers at the time). When I fixed it with a repaired one, the bucking started. As the approximate countermeasure settings were now inappropriate.

In the end, chasing this issue, I finally sorted out all the gremlins.
Side benefit, I learned A LOT!
Car got renewed in a few areas, maybe not quite needed, but:
new injectors and seals, phenolic washers, new fuel hoses and rubber throughout, new plugs, new cap and rotor, new cables, new fuel pump and filter, cleaned and renewed TPS, new AAV (and spare money from rebuilding 7-8 of them for a few folks) and a renewed smile on my face and my kids face when driving!

142 Guy · Jun 20, 2023

It is nice that it is running. Part of the experience of new to you vintage car ownership is getting to figure out the weird bits visited on the car by previous owners / mechanics.

If you are going to own a Volvo or any other vintage car with D jet, you really have to learn to do the maintenance work on it yourself because the majority of the mechanics / techs don't have a clue unless they are a known D jet specialist.

Any change to do following new injectors? Swapped in the Beck and Arnley ones result in pinging and bucking

Dalsim007

142 Guy

142 Guy

142 Guy

clarj0113

Dalsim007

clarj0113

Dalsim007

142 Guy

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities