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240gator

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Solved. Camshaft code after replacing seal

Exhaust cam seal leaked about a year ago. Replaced it and all was well. Now intake seal was leaking.

Followed these steps for intake seal (just like I did when I replaced exhaust seal):
Aligned cams and crank. Locked cams at rear.
Pulled belt off.
Removed T55 plug. Removed T55 bolt.
Pulled intake cam hub, pulled seal.
Installed new seal, installed hub.
Installed T55 bolt. Installed T55 Plug.
Installed belt. Tightened.
Removed cam lock at rear.

Now getting this one code:
ECM-674C Camshaft Position, Intake. High

This thread leans towards VVT seals. I had no code before starting this seal replacement though.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?611415-ECM-673C-Camshaft-position-exhaust-%96-High

Did I screw up the timing? Did I not reset the cams properly? Did have kind of low oil due to cam seal leak. Filled it to dipstick line. Car seems to run fine. Just throws this code after 2 key cycles. Ideas?
 
Cam sensor or solenoid could have taken a dive. Check to make sure those connections are good.




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Agreed, if the new seal were involved you'd see oil everywhere. The cam sensor is at the rear, vvt solenoid at the front. Check both.
 
I had the same thing happen to me. Even when using the rear locking tool. Your cam timing is off. Most likely advanced one tooth. I just loosened the belt and turned the intake cam back one tooth. Then it was fine
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I had the same thing happen to me. Even when using the rear locking tool. Your cam timing is off. Most likely advanced one tooth. I just loosened the belt and turned the intake cam back one tooth. Then it was fine
Dang. So when you say turn it back you mean remove the belt and turn the whole intake cam counterclockwise one tooth, correct?
 
That's what he means but I don't recommend it. Because the pulley is not keyed to a set position, assuming this is the issue it's unlikely to be an even tooth angle off.

Really if you suspect this you should go back to square one, by loosening the center bolts on both pulleys, rotating and locking the cams, and retightening. You'll need two new end plugs but you do not need to remove or even tension the belt.

Check those connections first.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
That's what he means but I don't recommend it. Because the pulley is not keyed to a set position, assuming this is the issue it's unlikely to be an even tooth angle off.

Really if you suspect this you should go back to square one, by loosening the center bolts on both pulleys, rotating and locking the cams, and retightening. You'll need two new end plugs but you do not need to remove or even tension the belt.

Check those connections first.
Sound advice. Wish I waited to see your reply. I moved one tooth and car ran worse. Thinking I had interference I quickly turned off and went back through all marks (I didn't break the center cam bolts loose). Not sure if my crank slipped or what happened but with all marks good I fired it up and it runs good. Cleared codes and they haven't returned yet. Thanks!
 
Rotate VVT gear clockwise relative to VVT hub before tightening the T55 bolt down.

With the gear all the way clockwise relative to the hub, the timing mark should line up and the ECU will be happy.
That procedure is needed for the earlier engines but these cars have a different VVT mechanism.
 
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