Descent into Hell - er, no I mean a pv444.

blueosprey90 · Dec 10, 2017

The current issue is that I cannot seem to fix the dome light. As delivered, the dome light bulb was burned out and the two-position switch (which seems to work off of a ball bearing) was broken. I jury rigged a repair to the switch with a ball bearing (4mm, I think). I replaced the bulb with a 6V 10W festoon bulb.

The fixture itself looks like an aftermarket part as it has no markings whatsoever.

I have 6 volts (plus or minus) across from the two hot wires in the roof to ground. I have continuity from the power side of the switch to the ground side of the switch through the bulb. If I use some pigtail wires on the fixture and touch the + and - terminals of the battery, the bulb glows brightly.

But, I cannot get the fixture to work if I connect it up at the interior ceiling. I'm pretty sure my ground is good since I used a Dremmel tool to scrape off some of the paint under the headliner.

I've made many, many attempts to hook it up without success. Any advice appreciated. Any suggestions on a replacement fixture at reasonable price also appreciated.

blueosprey90 · Dec 11, 2017

It wasn't easy, but I got the dome light to work.

The problem seemed to exist at the fuse box. Fortunately, a prior owner had sprayed the engine bay with black primer resulting in all of the wires being black - which just adds to the fun.

And I think the wiring has been modified a bit, so the wiring diagram was only partially helpful.

In the end, I ran a jumper wire from the #5 to the #4 fuse terminal. With power at the fuse, the dome light worked just fine. There is a second wire leading from that fuse terminal, but I never did figure what it went to.

I did isolate some of the of the other wires. I did manage to get the heater fan to work - but it seems pretty lame. If there is a separate fan for the back seat, I didn't find it.

The headlights have a problem in that one of the parking lights goes off when the headlights are on. But the bigger problem there is that they need to be aimed much lower than where they are aimed now.

I think I have a bearing starting to go. Not sure if it might be the water pump or the generator. Noticeable squeal on start-up when the car is cold, but it does quiet down once warmed up.

blueosprey90 · Dec 19, 2017

One never knows when a spare engine might come in handy.

Picked up a B16 engine today. I was hoping for a B18 as was advertised.

I'm told it was rebuilt but the knucklehead forgot to put in one of the bearing shells.

blueosprey90 · Mar 1, 2018

February 28th. Nice day. Took the PV 444 for a ride. I think I've owned since April and getting to the point where I need to consider filling up with a 2nd tank of gas.

blueosprey90 · Mar 5, 2018

OK, now I am inspired!

I consider Lime Rock my home track. People have been pestering me to get the Volvo out to wallow race in the "preservation class".

The only things I need in order to run, besides a car that runs, is an exterior emergency shut off, seat belts and some numbers. Already have the fire extinguisher, the helmet and fireproof suit.

http://touringcarracing.net/Races/19...Le Mans.html

The PV 444's performance in 1958 wasn't so shabby either.

http://touringcarracing.net/Races/19...Le Mans.html

In 1957, I was only 9 years old and was oblivious to cars/racing until recently. In the 1957 race, I recognize the name Gordon MacKenzie finishing in 8th place driving an Austin A35. He was a member of my club, the VSCCA, and just passed away last year.

In the 1958 race, I recognize the name of Walter Cronkite, the famous American newscaster, with a dnf with a Goggomobile TS 400 - whatever that was! He ran a Volve PV 444 in the 1959 race and came in third.

Duett · Mar 9, 2018

Well I just stumbled onto this post and read through all 3 pages. I’m sure you feel like you’re talking to yourself but I enjoyed the read, following your progress. Post more pics of the car.

I have a 61 P210 with original B16 and 6 volt system. Parts have been pretty easy to source
Irollmotors.com and VintageImportParts.com are a couple of that come to mind.

MrV · Mar 9, 2018

Cool videos, thanks
I envy you living an hour from lime rock.
When i lived in CT back in the 70's, i didnt know it existed.

dean

blueosprey90 · Mar 12, 2018

Steering Wheel removal. My steering wheel has two cracks that I want to repair. I plan to use PV-7 epoxy, but will also need to paint the steering wheel when I am done.

The first step to removing the wheel was to remove the horn ring. On the steering wheel itself, behind the spokes at approximately 8 o’clock is a set screw that must be removed. Once removed, the horn ring twists off. I grabbed it and turned counter clockwise and it spun loose. It is only a compression fit, but after 60 years it might be quite tight and require some significant force to remove.

Behind the steering ring, one finds a connection for the horn in the center of the wheel. Next is a 30mm nut with a dual lock tab that holds the steering wheel in place. It was easy to push the locking tabs back with a screwdriver, and the nut itself was quite loose – maybe only 10 foot pounds of torque or less to get it off. I used a 30 mm socket, but could have probably used channel locks.

Behind the steering wheel is a cylindrical housing for the turn signal stalk. At around 4 o’clock at the dashboard is a small set screw. I removed that and then pushed the housing forward about 3/4”. It allowed just enough space for me to get my two claw puller behind the steering wheel. I left the steering wheel nut loosely in place as a foundation for a socket, then covered the horn connection with the socket, then a large washer (for spin) and then the business end of the puller. It required some firm pressure, but the steering wheel popped forward without any damage. I then pulled the steering wheel off of steering shaft.

The cylindrical housing behind the wheel now came into play. The turn signal mechanism is sitting in there. I decided to pull the housing off to paint it. I could see that the housing would slide off if I disconnected the turn signal wiring, which was easily done at a connection under the dash. The entire housing pulled off with a bit of rearward pressure.

Dylan@IPD · Mar 14, 2018

blueosprey90 said:
Steering Wheel removal. My steering wheel has two cracks that I want to repair. I plan to use PV-7 epoxy, but will also need to paint the steering wheel when I am done.

The first step to removing the wheel was to remove the horn ring. On the steering wheel itself, behind the spokes at approximately 8 o'clock is a set screw that must be removed. Once removed, the horn ring twists off. I grabbed it and turned counter clockwise and it spun loose. It is only a compression fit, but after 60 years it might be quite tight and require some significant force to remove.

Behind the steering ring, one finds a connection for the horn in the center of the wheel. Next is a 30mm nut with a dual lock tab that holds the steering wheel in place. It was easy to push the locking tabs back with a screwdriver, and the nut itself was quite loose - maybe only 10 foot pounds of torque or less to get it off. I used a 30 mm socket, but could have probably used channel locks.

Behind the steering wheel is a cylindrical housing for the turn signal stalk. At around 4 o'clock at the dashboard is a small set screw. I removed that and then pushed the housing forward about 3/4". It allowed just enough space for me to get my two claw puller behind the steering wheel. I left the steering wheel nut loosely in place as a foundation for a socket, then covered the horn connection with the socket, then a large washer (for spin) and then the business end of the puller. It required some firm pressure, but the steering wheel popped forward without any damage. I then pulled the steering wheel off of steering shaft.

The cylindrical housing behind the wheel now came into play. The turn signal mechanism is sitting in there. I decided to pull the housing off to paint it. I could see that the housing would slide off if I disconnected the turn signal wiring, which was easily done at a connection under the dash. The entire housing pulled off with a bit of rearward pressure.

Replacement steering surround housings are available new and really aren't that much. I got one recently for about $40 as I recall.

I'm all for reusing old parts, but 50 year old plastic might be more trouble than it's worth!

blueosprey90 · Mar 15, 2018

The turn signal housing that sits behind the steering wheel on my '57 PV444 is metal. Could use paint.

tmtalpey · Mar 15, 2018

blueosprey90 said:
Steering Wheel removal. My steering wheel has two cracks that I want to repair. I plan to use PV-7 epoxy, but will also need to paint the steering wheel when I am done.

Painting the steering wheel is going to be really tricky, I think. Sticky hands on a hot day are likely to take the finish right off. Why not install a nice leather wrap, that laces on with stitching? That was a nice upgrade in nineteen-fifty-ump!

blueosprey90 · Mar 20, 2018

Looks like a bakolite steering wheel. Fifty plus years in the sun. It need somethings - at least a clear coat.

blueosprey90 · Mar 22, 2018

I'm having trouble deciding what to do about my floorboards.

Driver's side had some rust through and I thought I would use the POR-15 floor pan kit to treat the floor with the POR-15 and the POR-15 "fiberglass" mesh.

But once I used the wire brush, the amount of rust through is about triple what I thought, maybe affecting 10% of the left half of the floor area. There is also a small amount of rust at the base of the toe board. Still, it all feels pretty solid.

I'm still leaning towards the POR-15 treatment, but floor pan replacement pieces are not that expensive. But I've never welded and fear that I might be in over my head if I attempt a metal replacement - a much bigger project than I anticipated. But then again, if I treat with the POR-15, the next guy may have that much more difficulty because he will have to deal with the POR-15 removal process.

So holding off for now. Plan to look closely at the passenger side within the next few days and then at the trunk and spare wheel area. If all three need metal replacement, I might buy the replacement panels, do some preliminary work and then try to find a body shop to weld in the panels.

But I'm anxious to be using the car this summer as opposed to doing body work.

On the driver's side, it looks like all the rust is from the inside. The underside looks quite smooth.

Steering wheel repair also coming along nicely using the PC-7.

MrV · Mar 23, 2018

I cut mine out and welded in new.
Hardest part is getting all the spot welds drilled.. rest is easy.

dean

blueosprey90 · Mar 26, 2018

I had great expectations for the weekend. But on Saturday morning, I espied a Craigslist ad for a B20 motor about 2 and a half hours away. Knowing absolutely anything about the B20 motor, I decided to go get it on the theory that I should buy when the item is available.

As usual, the spare motor was not very well cared for, but it spins and someone put a substantial amount of grease at the front crank where a pulley should be. It is a B20 4969 29 25945 that I think was used in the 140 series. I have no idea what the carburation was, but the intake / exhaust manifold has butterfly valves built in. The fellow I bought it from, however, gave me a intake / exhaust manifold which I can use for SU carbs. He suggested that the manifold was rare and worth more than the engine. Of course, I know nothing.

I spent a good portion of today cleaning it up and building a "box" for it to sit in so it is upright. Then I moved it to the barn that I rent for storage. I now have two spare engines. That should be enough!

Although I didn't have a chance with the wire wheel, I think my passenger side and both rear floorboards are in pretty good condition with no rust through.

The steering wheel repair is coming along. Although I have patched the cracks, the entire rim is cloudy perhaps because of the sun's ultraviolet rays. Not sure what to do, and was hoping to get a small quantity, two part epoxy paint in black, but can't find any.

I pulled the steering wheel with the 2 arm gear puller once I pushed the turn signal housing behind the steering wheel towards the dash.

Photo 2 shows the turn signal mechanism inside the housing behind the wheel. The turn signal stalk was held on with a 12mm nut that I could get at from the small end near the dash.

I had two cracks in the wheel that I repaired with PC-7.

tmtalpey · Mar 30, 2018

Huh - a black steering wheel. Most of them from the 56-57 era are white.

SU B18/B20 alloy manifolds aren't that hard to find or that valuable. The cast-iron "butterfly" ones aren't all bad, either. Post a pic of what you have?

"Grease" at the front crankshaft sleeve sounds odd. You're sure it's not just a worn-out front main seal, with petrified goop soaked in oil?

Ron Kwas · Mar 30, 2018

Tom;

"cast-iron "butterfly" ones aren't all bad" ...I feel a bit more strongly about those...: http://www.sw-em.com/manifolding_notes.htm#dual_throttle_manifold

Cheers

tmtalpey · Mar 31, 2018

Agreed on the exhaust manifold being the better part of the assembly. Cutting the intakes off and using the aluminum early part is a great strategy (been there, done that more than once). Alternatively, wiring the butterflies open, and/or removing them entirely, can avoid other issues. The early ones benefit more than the later ones for this.

The whole loop-de-loop butterfly thing was basically a band-aid for the emissions regulations that hit in 67-68. The design didn't last long, for good reason.

blueosprey90 · Mar 31, 2018

tmtalpey,

The steering wheel may be black because the car is white.

Question de jure: I'm midway through replacing the transmission mount. I think the transmission is an M4. The mount is round, but the sleeve for the through bolt is off center, with more rubber on one side that the other. I'm thinking the thicker rubber goes on the bottom. Any knowledge out there?

tmtalpey · Mar 31, 2018

blueosprey90 said:
The mount is round, but the sleeve for the through bolt is off center, with more rubber on one side that the other. I'm thinking the thicker rubber goes on the bottom. Any knowledge out there?

Nope, the thin part goes down. The hole should be at six o'clock. Although, you'll see them installed every which way after all these years.

Descent into Hell - er, no I mean a pv444.

blueosprey90

blueosprey90

blueosprey90

blueosprey90

blueosprey90

Duett

MrV

blueosprey90

Dylan@IPD

blueosprey90

tmtalpey

blueosprey90

blueosprey90

MrV

blueosprey90

tmtalpey

Ron Kwas

tmtalpey

blueosprey90

tmtalpey

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